No start, p0335, p0171, p0300, pending 302 and p0171. Car died after ripping it in second, earlier in the day maf popped out while driving. I believe my ess is dirty or dead as 180k, I have not cleaned since purchase after car sat for 5 years. I'll be throwing it on the lift at lunch and cleaning it.

 

You probably also have a vacuum leak in addition to the CSPS. The P0300 and P0302 codes are misfires. Usually linked to poor ignition system components. When was the last time you changed out coils, spark plugs and wires? To confirm vacuum leak you want to look at short term fuel trims. It should be sitting at 0%. If you get 5% this will confirm a vacuum leak exists. These would be my first steps

 

just got it started. Short term fuel trims at 20%... if I can get it started again I will spray some starter fluid on the intake to try to find the vacuum leak. I haven't changed the ignition system yet, I've had a very rare misfire, and expect that it is ignition related. Waiting on money to order new ignition.

Edit: after working on the car for a couple hours, it will start now only with a boost (on the way out battery but up until whatever broke, it's done the job) and it blurbles, idles very roughly, definitely missing every few second, give it gas and she dies. I sprayed carb cleaner all over the upper intake manifold and throttle body, and sprayed every vacuum line I could access. Long term fuel trims are at 22.6% idling short term fluctuates from -5% (rare) to anything up to 20% at one point. I will be (regular) compression testing it tomorrow, as all this is leading me to believe

 

If you can do a compression test first that's the better option. Remember, the car has to be able to get up to temperature before you can perform it. If the engine is actually toast (I dont think this is the case just yet) it will save a bit of cash buying parts to run a broken engine. Sounds like you may also need a new starter. How fast is it cranking?

 

Cranking sounds ok, maybe a bit slower than usual? I dont think it's the starter because when it does start it's got a very lopey idle, blurbles, and just sounds and smells like ****. I'll be compression testing it shortly, and will get back to you with the results. My compression is definitely low as all hell, but I dont think I lost a seal or anything. The fact that it started after cleaning the sensor leads me to believe the sensor or wiring may have fucked off, and that'll be replaced if my compression is ok enough. I'm not sure if I'll be swapping or ditching the car if it is fucked.

 

The engine I'm willing to bet is fine. It's likely some other problem that's causing the problems you are having. A lot of the time these cars are diagnosed with low compression even without a compression test being done! Its madness but it benefits those who know what they are looking at.

 

warmed engine, removed fuel fuse, removed spark plug, (regular) compression tested, 50psi from the rear. RIP. It was a fun couple months. Now I guess looking for an engine or I'm selling the car.

 

Ideally should be using a rotary compression tester. You need to adjust to 250 RPM and for elevation. 50 psi might be good if it’s only cranking at 150 RPM. Possible to do with a regular tester but more complicated than just plugging it in and cranking. Good video here to show you how to properly test compression with a regular tester. It’s also not accurate but will get you close to your actual PSI reading.