I am buying an RX8 and would like to know if the S2 years are much better than the S1 years.

For example I️ am looking at a 2005 with 157k miles but had a JDM engine / tranny replacement 15k ago. Price is $3,500

Other rx8 is a 2009 with 115k original motor price is $4900

All other things being the same like 6 speed, condition etc, is the 2009 worth the extra money with the improvements Mazda made for 2004-2008?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

Neither one is worth considering without a compression check. Hate to be harsh about it but its the truth. These cars are so prone to compression failure that even a low mileage engine can be suspect

It's a possibility that the low mileage JDM engine could have low compression if it wasn't taken care of. It also could have excellent compression, who knows... 115k on an original rotary, I wouldn't get my hopes up on that one.

S1 vs S2, pretty much boils down to which one looks nicer to you. Yeah 2 more oil injectors and some suspension upgrades for S2, most people wont notice a difference. Add premix to a S1 and your be fine as long as your engine is healthy.

Good luck! compression check... lol

 

Thank u for ur reply. I hate to ask this here but I still can’t post anywhere else.

The car I am most interested in the guy said he replaced the clutch with “a level 3” and since then when the car is in gear but not moving the rpms rev up and down. If he puts it in neutral or is driving it doesn’t do it.

any ideas? I’m so excited to get an rx8 and after weeks of research I’m down to the last few.

 

Stay away from that car with clutch problems. Not at all normal under any circumstances. You don't need to buy that headache.

Compression test BEFORE any RX8 purchase, or be prepared to spend big money (thousands of dollars) to rebuild or replace an engine . Failure to do this before purchase can turn your "bargain" RX8 purchase into an expensive nightmare. We see that happen all too often here with new owners that failed to get compression tests before purchase. Even if you think it feels fine to drive, failing engines with low compression can still be driveable for a while. And unfortunately there are some RX8 owners that are willing to unload their failing or failed engine cars onto unsuspecting eager new owners for a "bargain" price. .


Mechanical changes in Series 2 RX8s.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...s-i-ii-161665/

As you see here, there were a host of improvements. But still I would look at the mileage and the engine condition (rotary-specific compression test) before deciding between a Series 1 or Series 2 of otherwise similar good condition.


Read this link thoroughly if you haven't already
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/


Don't let your burning desires overrule your head and lead you into making a quick bad choice. Be thorough in your evaluations of any choices.

 

Well your last bit of advise I don’t want to hear but it’s very good advice.

Having said that the engine replacement for JDM is only a couple months as he sent me receipt and bill from shop that put it in. Utube shows engine being installed passing compression test on all rotors. Should I still spend to have another test done? He already has come down over $1k on the price

As far as the clutch goes let’s say he drops another $500-$1000 would you still stay away or that should cover any related cost?

This will be my second car as I have a truck so I can and plan to get repairs, upgrades, and recommended maintenance from here before I drive it.

Lastly thank you to those who have replied and everyone else who posted valueable info on here. My wife asked me why in the hell would I get another car with a rotor engine as I have had multiple RX-7s and I couldn’t answer her.

I now know it’s because the awesome community, over analyzing of the car, the uniqueness and pure fun of driving it far exceeds the problems and quirks. I gotta truck that I never have problems with but is boring to drive and never asked anyone about it lol.

Thanks again,
Future member & RX8 owner... hopefully

 

Even the JDM engine that you have video on is now 15k miles older. You have no idea if it was properly broken in over its first 2000 miles and how it has been driven and maintained.
RX8 Break In Procedures
Yes if I was you I would get a current compression test done before any purchase.

Is the seller going to give you an engine warranty? I guess not, so protect your money and know the true health of that engine. If it was not properly and slowly broken in over the first 2000 miles, or not properly maintained, including its ignition system and cat, you could have a failing engine.

Do not accept any car with clutch issues, unless you are prepared financially to replace the clutch, bearings, pressure plate etc. and the labor too .

I also have owned multiple RXs, but the RX8 Renesis engine is a much more high-strung and fragile beast if not properly cared for.

I fear the seller is desperate to get rid of his problem child here, and you are too eager to jump in and give up your money. If you are a mechanic wiz with rotary cars and will do all the work yourself, then talk him down to a realistic "as is" price and take it with all its issues and unknowns.

 

Welcome.
I bought a 2004 LY GT 5 years ago with 18k miles on it.


I often have different views from many here when it comes to what 8s are worth, how cautious and how thorough one should be before buying one.
I always say an 8 is worth whatever someone is willing to pay.
I try not to discourage people unless they seem completely over their head.
I'm not an expert on troubleshooting and repairing 8s, but I have a solid mechanical background, and more experienced members here have disagreed with my viewpoints on this, so take that into consideration also.

A compression test is always a good idea before buying an 8.
However, I can qualify it:

IF someone is aware of the risks and expenses involved buying one without a test, for whatever reason, with the understanding that an engine replacement could be a real possibility, and want to buy a specific 8 because they really want it, then do it.

IF someone enjoys 'project' cars, and has mechanical aptitude, tools, (or the willingness to invest in them) time, space, and financial ability to fix up a project car, then do it.

No one can say for sure what an 8 is worth to someone else, only their own opinion of what it's worth, and tangible bench marks like KBB values.

Many would say I overpaid for mine 5 years ago.
I knew about RX7s, nothing about 8s and the Renesis, saw mine sitting on a car lot and fell in love with it.
I drove it and had to have it.

Fast forward 5 years, 60k miles, faced with the prospect of an engine replacement due to bad compression and spending what many think is more than it's now worth to keep it, I still don't regret it, and would do it all over again.

IF you go into it with your eyes wide open prepared for whatever issues you may encounter because you REALLY want this one, do it.
However, if you just want an RX8 with no specific features and are willing to take time to evaluate them thoroughly, there are many others out there that could be a better choice.

Also, IF you plan on investing in an 8, and are considering shopping around for one, or want to start investing in tools specific to rotary engines, there is a vendor here that is currently having a sale on Rotary Compression Testers for $300.
It would pay for itself if you wanted to test more than one 8.

Good luck!

 

Thank u for the reply the more opinions I have the better.

So are these engines that much worse than the rx-7s? I’m assuming u took good care of ur 8, even doing the maintenance schedule recommended here and the engine couldn’t make it to 80k miles?

I don’t mean that as negative, I just want to at least have a fair fight not having to put multiple engines in.

Also thank u for the info on a compression tester. The guy who ownes RX7 Heaven years ago showed me how to use a standard compression gauge (w removed valve). Worked great on 7s. Does it still work with 8s?

 

4 days after I bought mine, I got a CEL & code for a bad cat.
A case where a little bit of knowledge is a bad thing, I wasn't aware how risky it was to drive a rotary with a bad cat.
I thought it was running way too good to have a bad cat.
The warranty expired just a few days before the original owner traded it in.
I believe now he knew the cat was bad, and either he or the dealership cleared the memory.
I bought it As Is, the dealer wanted $1700 for a new cat, and I didn't want to spend that much.
I always thought the engine would just bog down with a bad cat, it wasn't doing it, and the code said "below efficiency", so I wasn't too concerned with it.
I drove it that way for several thousand miles until I started getting flashing CELs for misfires.
I think I did the most damage then.
I put a midpipe on it, changed the ignition components, and It's been great ever since.
I had no idea it had bad compression until I brought it in for the airbag recall.
I figured I'd get it checked and was shocked when they said it was failing.
That was probably 10 or 15k miles ago at least, and it only recently started taking an extra second or 2 for hot starts, and it still runs great.
I made three 2000 mile road trips in the last 5 months in it with no issues.

I have an old pickup for a backup, so I'm not too concerned about replacing the engine yet, but I plan on replacing the engine with a Mazda rebuild next year.

About the compression test, I think it can tell you if the engine is really bad, but can't give you an accurate reading on the actual health of the engine.
You need the rotary specific tester that can give you the actual readings on each rotor face of each rotor for that, 2 sets of 3 numbers each.

I bought a RCT tester, but I haven't used it yet because of too many other unrelated issues I'm dealing with atm.

 

I would go for the tester that BigCajun mentions, as that is barely more than many dealers would charge you for a single test. You could then recoup all your costs helping other RX8 owners who need tests done. Yes you need the tester that can read all three faces of each of the two rotors.

My regional RX8club group once had a meet were one such private tester owner came and did compression tests for a few new owners at a bargain price, and that paid for his tester costs.

To answer your question, yes the Renesis engines are more temperamental than NA 13B engines, they are designed at the highest compression ratio of any NA rotary engine made in order to make the hp they make. So if there are any issues with seals, lubrication, proper and complete ignition,backpressure from a clogged cat ,overheating etc., these Renesis engines can suffer severe damage quickly.

There are complete threads here for folks that have gotten way over 100k miles out of their original engines, and threads here were folks have had multiple replacements of engines with far less mileage. All Renesis engines are hand assembled and none are exactly the same.

The mileage and performance you get out of yours may vary widely from others, but we know the right things to suggest you do to get the most out of your RX8 and Renesis engine.

I ultimately agree with BigCajun that if you are ready and able to go into this with your eyes wide open and deal with whatever issues this car has and are willing to pay for it all, and yet you still want this one, then do it. Otherwise find another RX8 in better shape with a recent good compression test.

 

I just read the vendor's latest thread I referred to, he's offering rentals for $30 plus shipping both ways.

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...4/#post4843079

*edit*
I misread the rental price, it's $30, not 80.
Even better.

 

The funny idle could easily be the clutch switch.....if it isn't set properly it can cause strange idle issues. Often they get fubarred when people do clutches

 

Well, let's just say that RX-8s are not where the whole "boost in, apex seals out" meme come from.

And I recommend you read through the rx8help.com. Some of the info is a little outdated, but is still a good reference regardless. Good maintenance greatly reduce the risk, but doesn't completely eliminate it. You can still have a heart attack even if you exercise regularly and eat healthy, just not nearly as likely as a heavy smoker.

It's good to do research for ANY car you buy. One would think Accords and Corollas are reliable vehicles... Except the 08 Accord V6 AT I bought was well known for a cylinder deactivation system flaw and can cause fouled spark plugs, misfires and high oil consumption. I got lucky(I didn't know ANYTHING about cars at that point) and my Accord didn't do that. The 1999 Corolla beater burns way more oil than my RX-8 due to a design flaw in the oil rings, but it was a beater, so I didn't care.

Bottom line, just make sure you know what are getting into and keep an eye out on everything. That's what I am doing and my RX-8 didn't have any "random" issues. When it did have issues, it's usually my fault for doing something wrong. With an RX-8, it really is "with great power comes great responsibility".

 

The renting option is great and I am prob gonna do it. I never have done a compression test is it relatively easy to do and how long does it take?

update* He just let me know he fixed the clutch issue. It was the mass air flow sensor.

Lastly the engine he replaced with the JDM worked but would smoke really bad. He still has that engine and I can have it with the price of the car. Any value in selling parts from it?



Thanks again for all the info!

 

The MAF sensor? That's not crazy, but it's odd that the issue would only manifest when the car was in gear. You may want to check that the clutch is fully disengaging and not dragging on the flywheel due to poor adjustment of the pedal or air in the clutch hydraulics.

Don't worry about statistics of how good the engines are, that won't change the specific engine that's in your specific car. Consider that at the end of the day, you're not buying a new car, so you're automatically inheriting all mistakes made by previous owners. If they knew what they were doing -- great. If they didn't, you need to be real vigilant. Get that compression test, it's not hard -- pull of left front wheel, warm up the car to operating temp, pull the leading spark plugs, attach the tester and crank for several seconds. Record the exact RPM of the engine and the compression reading, and then use Foxed.ca - Rotary Compression Calculator to normalize to 250 rpm.

If that sounds complicated, research until it's not.
Also the whole thing about using regular compression testers on rotaries is susceptible to several sources of error. For example, you mentioned there's a video of the engine being tested. I imagine it's cold? Cold compression is higher than warm compression -- one of the caveats of the rotary. It needs to be tested warm.