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P2004 and P0139

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Old 05-08-2015 | 10:15 PM
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Euqirne__'s Avatar
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P2004 and P0139

Hello everyone,

I provided a little bit of background info on my car. but it is not necessary to read the whole post. Feel free to read from "5th problem" down...

I have had my rx8 for almost 2 years now, and i have had several major problems that have costed me quite a bit of money...

1st problem occurred a week after i purchased the car from the dealer. I can't remember exactly what the problem was but the car broke down in the middle of traffic. i had to get it towed to the dealer (since it was under warranty) and they fixed it, for free.

2nd problem occurred about 2 months later, i had an engine misfire. turns out that one of my spark plugs was bad, so i replaced just the one spark plug that was giving me problems along with its spark wire, and coil.

3rd problem occurred 4 months after that. my engine coolant needed a new cap and i also needed a new radiator.

4th problem occurred 4 months later. another engine misfire. i installed an AEM cold air intake and i think that is the reason for the engine misfire. I'm pretty sure i didn't cap one of the vacuum hoses. (so that is my fault)

5th problem occurred 8 months later. i installed a BHR Midpipe. and i got a CEL with code p0139 which indicates that my O2 sensor is bad. now, i did lots of research before doing this install. i came to the conclusion that it didn't really matter and i was just going to fix it once i got out of school (I'm a college student)...

6th problem is happening right now. along with the P0139 code i got another code that reads P2004 and I've done research on it... but it is very inconclusive. some people say it is not a big deal, that the car will run just fine, but it will lose power either in the high rpms or in the low rpms depending on if the APV is opened or closed...

I drove the car around for a couple of weeks and i started noticing that each time i drove it, the car got worse and worse. for example, I had to rev up the engine to 5k rpms from a dead stop in order for the car to start accelerating... the very last time i drove the car i had to redline it in order for the car to BARELY move.
Every time i drove the car it smelled like burnt rubber (must of been the clutch).

i took the car to the dealer and they did a diagnostics. and they said that they are 99% sure that it needs a new clutch... they wanted to charge me $400 just to drop the transmission and do more diagnostics so i said no...

The car is currently at a local shop. i ordered the Exedy mzk1002 oem replacement clutch kit. and now I'm kind of regretting it. do i need any additional parts , like a flywheel or a counterweight flywheel since I'm replacing the clutch?

and one last thing, can the code P2004 be fixed with a clutch replacement?
the reason why I'm asking is because replacing the clutch seems totally unrelated to the APV valve issue...

Last edited by Euqirne__; 05-08-2015 at 10:17 PM. Reason: Grammar
Old 05-09-2015 | 10:57 AM
  #2  
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wcs
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You should have changed all the coils and plugs at the same time.
Coils especially are important to keep in good health.

#5 is the rear O2 sensor which measure the catalytic efficiency and as indicated with the catalytic convertor removed it throwing that CEL. No problem just annoying

#6 APV valve stuck open. You should fix it, the APV opens at 6250 RPM which is a rather handy spot to be.

Don't know all about the clutch, but it should be fine with the OEM flywheel.

APV and clutch are totally unrelated.
Old 05-25-2015 | 09:45 PM
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Euqirne__'s Avatar
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Replaced the clutch and car started working fine.
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