jcagle

I just bought a non running ‘06 shinka for $1000 and when I turn the key to start the lights dim but it does absolutely nothing. No click, no turn, nothing. Battery is good, it’s got a new starter, and a new eccentric shaft sensor. When the key is on the key light flasher red(is it supposed to?)
immobilizer problem? I don’t have the big credit card key part but I do have the two original keys that were pulled out of the rest of the card. Do I need the rest of the credit card for it to start?

thanks in advance

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yep the immobilizer is activating (flashing light). May need the dealer to recode the keys for you. You don't need the credit card part for it to work. Strange that the car would have forgotten its keys.

jcbrx8

I once had the immobilizer raise and it turned out to be a blown fuse. I can't recall which one ..., but check all your fuses.

​​​​​Edit: IIRC...Ignition fuse, fuses 23 or 25 in the main.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Some locksmiths can reprogram the keys and immobilizer to work together. Unlike a stealership, they will come to you. So you might try to call around and ask. However, it’s not unusual to have a good battery, but not a good connection. The original Mazda battery connectors stretch and loose good, tight contact easily. You might go through all that first.

Because I can understand the immobilizer preventing the starter and other engine controls from engaging, but not the lights dimming. It should just be normal, but otherwise doing nothing to crank/start.
.

jcagle

Well I think the fact that it has sat for about 5 years might have something to do with it

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Well no, it has little to with it, but with one exception; is it a good, fully charged battery or not (recently)? Or did you just pull a rabbit out of your hat claiming it to be good? Because if not, then start there first.

this is generally why internet car repair attempts are the equivalent to chasing your own tail in circles.
.

jcagle

It was completely dead when i got there yesterday (as in 0 volts) I’m sure it’s been like that for years. When I jumpstared it the alarm went off and wouldnt turn off when I turned on the key, which is what makes me think it lost communication with the chip in the key. I charged the battery overnight and somehow it still sorta holds a charge.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You need a new battery.... there is no way a battery that sat that low will charge and work properly...
And a rotary with a weak battery is guaranteed to be a problem....

jcagle

I’m working on getting a new battery now but it does the same thing with a group 31 battery connected with jumper cables.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

If you take the old battery out of the loop you will be OK... but boosting against a flat battery doesn't work.
also check all the electrical connections as any corrosion will drop the available current as well.

jcagle

That was with the old one out. I took the bad one out and put a new group 31 connected with jumper cables straight to the terminals.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Should work.... keep looking.

40th8Jake

I have had a key die on me before (credit card style) and had to get a new one programmed. But like others have said start with the easiest things. Battery, connections to that said new battery. Ground is secured and not corroded. If its sat outside for 5 years you have a lot to do before it’s road worthy.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

So I wasn't sure but today I tested it: when you turn the key to START, the lights and radio go out until you return the key to ON. Pretty sure this is normal for key-start cars. Do later year 8s not do this?

darnellm

iTrader: (1)

Loki

Looking for dimming headlights when trying to start is a diagnostic test.
Determines if the car is even trying to start.
You can rule out a weak battery, immobilizer etc. very quicky.