Preventive matience for carbon build up?
#1
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Preventive matience for carbon build up?
I've been having some problems with my ssv valve, I called a friend of a friend who owns a shop and along with him cleaning it for me he suggested I used lupus oil or something like that. I can't remember exactly what I was told, our mutual friend was the middle man so me and the guy that owns the shop didn't actually speak to each other. Anyway, what I'm asking is has anyone ever heard of lupus fuel stabilizer or something relevant to it? You're supposed to put it in your gas tank and it is said to burn off extra carbon to prevent build up? If that exists or something like it would anyone else recommend using it?
#2
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It's Lucas I've used it in piston engines but not me rx8 but after reading this I would say Lucas oil knows squat about rotary'a
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The Lucas upper cylindar lubricant (Fuel Treatment) is great for rotary engines. Rotary Engines need extra lubrication and tend to burn oil because seals wear out. The Fuel Treatment will lubricate the seals and improve MPG and restore lost power.
Rotary don't burn oil because the seals wear out the burn to keep seals from wearing out and after such a statement I wouldn't use this in my rotary. I personally use tecron fuel system treatment every oil change.
Posts: 38
The Lucas upper cylindar lubricant (Fuel Treatment) is great for rotary engines. Rotary Engines need extra lubrication and tend to burn oil because seals wear out. The Fuel Treatment will lubricate the seals and improve MPG and restore lost power.
Rotary don't burn oil because the seals wear out the burn to keep seals from wearing out and after such a statement I wouldn't use this in my rotary. I personally use tecron fuel system treatment every oil change.
#3
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It's Lucas I've used it in piston engines but not me rx8 but after reading this I would say Lucas oil knows squat about rotary'a
Posts: 38
The Lucas upper cylindar lubricant (Fuel Treatment) is great for rotary engines. Rotary Engines need extra lubrication and tend to burn oil because seals wear out. The Fuel Treatment will lubricate the seals and improve MPG and restore lost power.
Rotary don't burn oil because the seals wear out the burn to keep seals from wearing out and after such a statement I wouldn't use this in my rotary. I personally use tecron fuel system treatment every oil change.
Posts: 38
The Lucas upper cylindar lubricant (Fuel Treatment) is great for rotary engines. Rotary Engines need extra lubrication and tend to burn oil because seals wear out. The Fuel Treatment will lubricate the seals and improve MPG and restore lost power.
Rotary don't burn oil because the seals wear out the burn to keep seals from wearing out and after such a statement I wouldn't use this in my rotary. I personally use tecron fuel system treatment every oil change.
lmao okay thanks my boyfriend is an idiot, I didn't know what he was taking about, he's a horrible listener. Want something done right gotta do it yourself. and thanks ill look more into both now that I know the real name of it and go from there.
#4
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No prob when in doubt with your 8 come here lots of good people with lots of information. They have help me make a lot of decisions that has more than likely saved my engine.
Edit
I forgot is your's a AT or MT? If it's a MT take the RPM's up to 8,8.5k in first, second and third only be safe with third cause your going to be at a law braking speed by then. That will help with carbon build up and you can do this once a day or once every time you go some where really up to you.
Edit
I forgot is your's a AT or MT? If it's a MT take the RPM's up to 8,8.5k in first, second and third only be safe with third cause your going to be at a law braking speed by then. That will help with carbon build up and you can do this once a day or once every time you go some where really up to you.
Last edited by niteshade247; 03-07-2014 at 11:59 PM.
#5
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I & others use Lucas semi-synthetic 2 stroke oil as a premix in the gas tank for added lubrication.
Could that be what was recommended?
Premixing is unproven, but many recommend it.
Could that be what was recommended?
Premixing is unproven, but many recommend it.
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Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant is used as a "premix" on piston engines frequently, and might be what he is referring to. It isn't really recommended though, as it actually can start gelling in gasoline, which can cause fuel delivery problems. Nearly every "fuel sock clogging" situation I have seen on 8club in the past bunch of years has been someone that has premixed Lucas UCL.
That is just that one fluid type from them. Their 2-stroke oil should be entirely acceptable as a premix.
Premix doesn't really prevent carbon buildup, however it can help keep it softer, and thus more easily eliminated through other methods, like harder driving or steam cleaning.
The only way you will be able to prevent carbon buildup entirely is, in theory, a water or water/meth injection system, however it is something that hasn't been done on a naturally aspirated RX-8 at all, much less the effect tested and measured.
That is just that one fluid type from them. Their 2-stroke oil should be entirely acceptable as a premix.
Premix doesn't really prevent carbon buildup, however it can help keep it softer, and thus more easily eliminated through other methods, like harder driving or steam cleaning.
The only way you will be able to prevent carbon buildup entirely is, in theory, a water or water/meth injection system, however it is something that hasn't been done on a naturally aspirated RX-8 at all, much less the effect tested and measured.
#7
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No prob when in doubt with your 8 come here lots of good people with lots of information. They have help me make a lot of decisions that has more than likely saved my engine.
Edit
I forgot is your's a AT or MT? If it's a MT take the RPM's up to 8,8.5k in first, second and third only be safe with third cause your going to be at a law braking speed by then. That will help with carbon build up and you can do this once a day or once every time you go some where really up to you.
Edit
I forgot is your's a AT or MT? If it's a MT take the RPM's up to 8,8.5k in first, second and third only be safe with third cause your going to be at a law braking speed by then. That will help with carbon build up and you can do this once a day or once every time you go some where really up to you.
It's a manual, I try to keep it in high revs but I only drive it around town and the speed limit on our main road is 40, which I usually break but let's not get to crazy. I like my record ticket free.
But in response to everyone else, you think I should go ahead and use the two stroke oil? Thanks for everyone's help.
#8
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...-thread-99636/
Read that. about 75% of that thread is just jibber jabber, the other 25% offers some actual good reading that will try to help you decide whether or not to premix. My personal take is that while it may not necessarily help, it is not going to hurt, anything except your wallet anyway. I use the Amsoil product and have religiously since 2011. Again, my choice.
Read that. about 75% of that thread is just jibber jabber, the other 25% offers some actual good reading that will try to help you decide whether or not to premix. My personal take is that while it may not necessarily help, it is not going to hurt, anything except your wallet anyway. I use the Amsoil product and have religiously since 2011. Again, my choice.
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I have several theories about when it would be most ideal to use. You can't use the same guidelines as people that use it for knock control on a boosted car. I would expect that the most ideal time is actually between say 20g/s and 80g/s MAF. Possibly more, but my water ingestion decarb testing that was producing measurable results was done in neutral at ~1,500-2,500rpm.
I'm sure water injection would be effective at some level across a wide range of rpms and MAF values (assuming you have a MAF based kit, not a MAP based kit), however I would want to measure the impact on EGTs across the whole range before feeling comfortable saying that high RPM is where it should be.
It's something that I REALLY want to test, but I don't have an 8 any more.
I'm sure water injection would be effective at some level across a wide range of rpms and MAF values (assuming you have a MAF based kit, not a MAP based kit), however I would want to measure the impact on EGTs across the whole range before feeling comfortable saying that high RPM is where it should be.
It's something that I REALLY want to test, but I don't have an 8 any more.
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https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...-thread-99636/
Read that. about 75% of that thread is just jibber jabber, the other 25% offers some actual good reading that will try to help you decide whether or not to premix. My personal take is that while it may not necessarily help, it is not going to hurt, anything except your wallet anyway. I use the Amsoil product and have religiously since 2011. Again, my choice.
Read that. about 75% of that thread is just jibber jabber, the other 25% offers some actual good reading that will try to help you decide whether or not to premix. My personal take is that while it may not necessarily help, it is not going to hurt, anything except your wallet anyway. I use the Amsoil product and have religiously since 2011. Again, my choice.
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#12
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I have several theories about when it would be most ideal to use. You can't use the same guidelines as people that use it for knock control on a boosted car. I would expect that the most ideal time is actually between say 20g/s and 80g/s MAF. Possibly more, but my water ingestion decarb testing that was producing measurable results was done in neutral at ~1,500-2,500rpm.
I'm sure water injection would be effective at some level across a wide range of rpms and MAF values (assuming you have a MAF based kit, not a MAP based kit), however I would want to measure the impact on EGTs across the whole range before feeling comfortable saying that high RPM is where it should be.
It's something that I REALLY want to test, but I don't have an 8 any more.
I'm sure water injection would be effective at some level across a wide range of rpms and MAF values (assuming you have a MAF based kit, not a MAP based kit), however I would want to measure the impact on EGTs across the whole range before feeling comfortable saying that high RPM is where it should be.
It's something that I REALLY want to test, but I don't have an 8 any more.
Which i guess is why no-one really wants to do it .
Those that look after the car and rev it hard regularly don't have as much carbon build up as those who drive like someone who wears a cardigan . And the ones that drive like grandad are not into this modifying the car milarky anyway.
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If you are injecting enough water to interfere with the spark, then yes, you definitely will. I would expect that there would be no noticeable power loss at the kind of injection rates I'd be testing. I would also expect that while you might need more water to eat away at existing carbon than you do to prevent new carbon caking from corming, but I doubt that either amount has to be very much water at all. Something to test.
In a cruise condition around 40g/s of airflow, I wonder if the added mass of water would actually reduce pumping losses by a fraction, since the combustion area is being used more fully. You certainly won't gain power, but that isn't the same thing as "you will lose power". It could easily just be completely neutral, where it has no effect on the combustion leverage, no effect on AFRs, and doesn't affect power output at all. Again, something to test out.
I'm not willing to make any sweeping statements of what will or will not happen though, because until someone produces some actual test results of an N/A rotary on MAF based water injection without half-assing it then it is all theory anyway. Any one theory could be proven incorrect because of one or more factors that aren't being considered when discussing it.
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I believe that this statement is subjective enough to need some testing to confirm.
If you are injecting enough water to interfere with the spark, then yes, you definitely will. I would expect that there would be no noticeable power loss at the kind of injection rates I'd be testing. I would also expect that while you might need more water to eat away at existing carbon than you do to prevent new carbon caking from corming, but I doubt that either amount has to be very much water at all. Something to test.
In a cruise condition around 40g/s of airflow, I wonder if the added mass of water would actually reduce pumping losses by a fraction, since the combustion area is being used more fully. You certainly won't gain power, but that isn't the same thing as "you will lose power". It could easily just be completely neutral, where it has no effect on the combustion leverage, no effect on AFRs, and doesn't affect power output at all. Again, something to test out.
I'm not willing to make any sweeping statements of what will or will not happen though, because until someone produces some actual test results of an N/A rotary on MAF based water injection without half-assing it then it is all theory anyway. Any one theory could be proven incorrect because of one or more factors that aren't being considered when discussing it.
If you are injecting enough water to interfere with the spark, then yes, you definitely will. I would expect that there would be no noticeable power loss at the kind of injection rates I'd be testing. I would also expect that while you might need more water to eat away at existing carbon than you do to prevent new carbon caking from corming, but I doubt that either amount has to be very much water at all. Something to test.
In a cruise condition around 40g/s of airflow, I wonder if the added mass of water would actually reduce pumping losses by a fraction, since the combustion area is being used more fully. You certainly won't gain power, but that isn't the same thing as "you will lose power". It could easily just be completely neutral, where it has no effect on the combustion leverage, no effect on AFRs, and doesn't affect power output at all. Again, something to test out.
I'm not willing to make any sweeping statements of what will or will not happen though, because until someone produces some actual test results of an N/A rotary on MAF based water injection without half-assing it then it is all theory anyway. Any one theory could be proven incorrect because of one or more factors that aren't being considered when discussing it.
![Smilie](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It is my belief (based on what tests I've seen you do plus what I've seen happen with WI in boosted applications) that to be effective at removing/preventing carbon buildup you will need to use a decent amount of water .
In my considered opinion, ........ this will result in power loss in an NA application .
However , I doubt anyone will ever be able to fully test the validity of that statement . Considering we still can't make up our minds on what oil to use ....
Last edited by Brettus; 03-08-2014 at 03:26 PM.
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