Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
04-29-2015, 09:10 AM
#26
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Thank you everyone for the lively and interesting points. I bought Royal Purple already and a K&N Oil filter which I'll use for me next oil change. But make sure its changed at 3K.
So my next question is if the rotor motor uses about a quart every 1000 miles (which mine is right on that mark) by 3000 miles, you will have already replaced 2/3rds of the total oil, what is the point of a complete change at 3K? Basically, the engine will always have fresh oil. If you change the filter every 3K, that is probably at least another 1/2 quart. Which by my estimates means the engine pretty much always has fresh oil. What am I missing?
So my next question is if the rotor motor uses about a quart every 1000 miles (which mine is right on that mark) by 3000 miles, you will have already replaced 2/3rds of the total oil, what is the point of a complete change at 3K? Basically, the engine will always have fresh oil. If you change the filter every 3K, that is probably at least another 1/2 quart. Which by my estimates means the engine pretty much always has fresh oil. What am I missing?
The entire system holds about 8 quarts or so. So you read all this and still went with RP?
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-29-2015 at 09:28 AM.
04-29-2015, 09:29 AM
#28
Water Foul
As the oil capacity of the car is roughly 7.5 quarts, and about 3 to 4 quarts drains at a time, you are only replacing about half of it at each oil change. I think 1 quart per 1,000 miles consumption is high under normal driving conditions unless your OMP rate has been increased. Mine consumes about 1 quart per 3,000 miles when driving on the street (or 1 quart per 300 miles at the track). Using your number, your 3 quarts of top-off oil only replaces about 3/8 of the mixture of old and new (continuously becoming old) oil during that 3,000 miles, which is not enough to keep it fresh.
Pushing for extended oil change intervals often results in this.
Since you have an S2 car, you should really be using an OEM Mazda oil filter of the correct part number. The S2 runs higher oil pressure, which requires a higher pressure rating on the relief valve inside the filter. IDK of any aftermarket makers that make a proper S2 filter.
Pushing for extended oil change intervals often results in this.
Since you have an S2 car, you should really be using an OEM Mazda oil filter of the correct part number. The S2 runs higher oil pressure, which requires a higher pressure rating on the relief valve inside the filter. IDK of any aftermarket makers that make a proper S2 filter.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 04-29-2015 at 07:03 PM.
04-29-2015, 09:32 AM
#29
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
The bypass rating of the filter doesn't mean anything really unless the filter gets clogged or the filter media just can't handle the amount of flow. The difference in pressure rating bypass is pretty minimal between S1 and S2 and it only comes into play when the difference in pressure is seen thru the filter. But yes it is a good idea to run the proper filter.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-29-2015 at 09:52 AM.
04-29-2015, 09:36 AM
#30
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
But this is also why you should warm your car up before going to higher RPM's. For me, I have an oil filter relocation setup that I made that uses a way larger filter so because of the large amount of filter media, the oil won't bypass as much.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-29-2015 at 09:51 AM.
04-29-2015, 10:33 AM
#31
Water Foul
Unless...
---
Agreed that the oil filter is a minor quibble, but why not use the correct part when it is of good quality and is inexpensive when purchased online?
04-29-2015, 10:41 AM
#32
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yes I agree, I have increased oil pressure on my Pineapple built engine and until I built the oil filter relocation setup, I was using S2 filters that I purchased by the case from Mazmart.
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