ZacWiltshire

My car has been weak to accelerate since the other day, and it's been getting slightly worse since. Whenever I give her enough throttle to take off/speed up semi-quickly, the RPM's flare until the actual speed of the car catches up to a point where the current RPMs and the speed match, and then accelerates normally from that point.

This all started when my dad took the 8 out to mess around on the ice. Unfortunately, the car is my daily driver, but he owns it, so he feels the need to mess with it as he pleases. Whenever he got back with his friends though, the car smelt of burnt clutch (almost a rubber smell yet subtly different), so I was thinking it could be that.

I've also looked through the Rx8 symptom and and cause thread, and saw a sudden power drop at specific rpm caused by an intake valving actuation problem. This could be it because it does seem to happen at around 3k rpm, but then again that's also my normal coasting RPM, and also I wouldn't know how to go about checking/etc, so any help with that would be appreciated.

Either way, I have a video at


I can post more videos/etc. if anyone is willing to offer opinions. Thanks.

Buckshot

So the RPM flares up when you gas it, but the speed only gradually increases? Sounds like a slipping clutch. The burnt smell plays into this.
After the tranny got rebuilt in my old Ford F-250 the clutch was slipping for a day or two, but that was due to penetrating oil that got on the clutch. I could just easily roll on the throttle and it would slip. RPMs rise, speed stays the same. It burnt off though, so it wasn't a big deal. Sounds like your clutch is on it's way out though, and not something that will fix itself.

RotoryVirgin

If the rpm increases without the clutch pedal depressed and there isnt acceleration in line with the rpm increase, your clutch isn't engaging. Dad probably fried it having fun without knowing how to drive.

RotoryVirgin

Also, the more you drive it the worse its going to get until you eventually get stranded. Best fix it asap

niteshade247

Buy your own 8 so when your dad screws his up you don't have to pay for it. My daughters boy friend has a dad like that screws his car up then tells him to fix it I don't understand that.

ZacWiltshire

I figured it was the clutch, but just wanted to get other opinions before dropping the money. He's gonna foot almost the whole bill, so I'm not too worried about it anyway, it's just the idea. And unfortunately, I can't handle a car payment on a regular basis right now with school. #medschoolproblems

Which would you guys recommend though?
It seems that people here generally agree with the oem replacement through BHR.

Exedy Factory RX-8 Clutch | Black Halo Racing

Thanks again guys.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, go with OEM.

niteshade247

I've had a stage 4 TDX for a year now and no issues at all verey agresive but love the feel. But yes OEM seems the best. Make shure you have the fly wheel resurfaced or replaced. Replace if bad discoloring.

ZacWiltshire

Thanks guys.
Buying the OEM and mazdatrix bearing removal tool now. Probably gonna have to wait till spring break to swap clutch.
Any recommendation on a flywheel. Figure I might as well replace both at once when they're accessible. I was just thinking BHR's lightweight exedy.

Exedy Lightweight Flywheel | Black Halo Racing

Or has anyone had better luck with the ACTs?
I feel bad asking because I haven't honestly had the time to search for flywheels yet, so if you take that offensively, just wait and I'll put in the time, haha.

CRO8TIA

It is your DD and youre going to wait till spring to change the clutch ? In your vid, you do realise the park brake is on. Tell your dad to get the **** next time he wants to pose in front of his mates.
I prefer the Alloy flywheel, you can swap out the friction plate instead of machining the flywheel as in lightweight steel flywheels. And an OEM clutch kit.

niteshade247

Just resurface the OEM one if not to burnt up. The only Benefit of a lightweight fly wheel is a slight increase in rpm gain speed(info from these forums somewhere) the cost is high for little gain. As for resurfacing I had NAPA do it and he really didn't want to as the rx8 has a 2 step fly wheel. It's also held on by a 24mm nut in the center instead of several bolts all around. Just look for the DIY on here for full details befor you start ordering stuff.

CRO8TIA

No, the counterweight is attached to the ES by use of a 54mm nut, the flywheel is attached to the counterweight using 6 x 10mm bolts.
If the OP is adamant on using the OEM flywheel, take it to a machine shop, not some hillbilly machinist who does 50 flywheels a day and cant wait to finish work to watch cartoons.

niteshade247

Nope your wrong my fly wheel is attached with a 24mm nut no bolts are you sure you have a 8 because all research I did indacates this is the common place thing for the rx8. There is no friction plate my stock fly wheel had 2 steps the lower and upper up is yes technically the friction plate but it is all one peace not 2. I see you used the word mates so your in uk or Australia might be like rah there but us is 1 nut 24 mm

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

niteshade, I'm in PA, and a couple months ago I assisted with a clutch replacement in which part of that time was spent hunting down a 54mm nut so we could remove the flywheel.

Take a look down this search result list, and you can see all the references to a 54mm flywheel nut: https://www.google.com/search?q=site...sm=93&ie=UTF-8


I'm fairly sure that 24mm isn't even enough distance to span the end of the e-shaft that it sits around. 24mm is the size of the transmission drain or fill plug

CRO8TIA

Shady, mate, I dont wish to get into a pissing match, but seriously, the Eccentric shaft at the flywheel end is 34mm in diameter, so a 24mm nut just isnt going to fit. I may have confused you with the 10mm bolts, they are used when using an aftermarket flywheel and counterweight. And yes , Im pretty sure I have an RX8.

niteshade247

Ok I could be wrong on size 24 sticks in my mind for some reason but he was saying that's just for the counter weight and there is and I quote 6 10mm bolts that hold the fly wheel. But RIWWP you have conferred I was correct just wrong on size. Just bring some muscle it took me standing on the ratchet and a guy pulling on it to get the thing off.

niteshade247

Ok you just said the key words after market he Is dealing with OEM as I did as far as after market it could have little green men holding it on for all I know.

CRO8TIA

Unless of course, one has an automatic transmission in their 8, which will have a 54mm nut and 6x10mm bolts. Bazinga !

ZacWiltshire

First off, I realize I said it's my daily driver, but I also have other options? So, If it has to wait till spring to save me money because I have a certified Mazda tech who can do it then, yes, I'm going to wait till spring.

Secondly, the parking break isn't on. The light stays on randomly from time to time. See thread below.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...emains-162585/

Ps, my break fluid isn't low, it's been checked. I'm guessing it's a short in the wire. It's been cleared multiple times after checking the break fluid.

As well, I don't really understand the "get the **** next time," unless you meant get the **** out. Either way though, I asked a question, on parts, not your opinion on the fact that my dad has every right to drive a car he owns?

Thanks for the advice though. If the flywheel is okay, I'll stick with the OEM, but otherwise, I'll probably pick up the aforementioned one I linked.

niteshade247

Ok but then we wouldn't be talking about a clutch change would we. Bazinga !

CRO8TIA

Man, I now know why some guys in here dont even bother trying to assist ppl without ***** or brains. If it is your fathers car, why are you repairing it. Dont bother replying, it is a rhetorical question.

niteshade247

His dad is paying for repair it's his DD and he is in school his dad wants to brake it he can just sucks when he dose.

niteshade247

BTW welcome to the club heated debates for entertainment and lots and lots of valuable info.