RX-8 doesn't catch falling revs and stalls
#1
RX-8 doesn't catch falling revs and stalls
Hi guys, ive an 07 RX-8 231ps that is an off road project that i intend to get working for the summer.
Ive had problems that a lot of the time came down to a bad battery. Ive replaced the battery and now the majority is okay. However, after revving the engine, it cannot seem to catch its idle, it falls bellow and stalls instead.
I read up a few things and found that the only thing i havent checked is the eccentric shaft sensor (ESS). Today i tried removing it to clean but is being an absolute pig to remove. Its the fully enclosed version.
Was wondering if anyone had any tips to remove it? And if there is anything else anyone can think of to stop the engine stalling?
Ive had problems that a lot of the time came down to a bad battery. Ive replaced the battery and now the majority is okay. However, after revving the engine, it cannot seem to catch its idle, it falls bellow and stalls instead.
I read up a few things and found that the only thing i havent checked is the eccentric shaft sensor (ESS). Today i tried removing it to clean but is being an absolute pig to remove. Its the fully enclosed version.
Was wondering if anyone had any tips to remove it? And if there is anything else anyone can think of to stop the engine stalling?
#2
Registered
Hi guys, ive an 07 RX-8 231ps that is an off road project that i intend to get working for the summer.
Ive had problems that a lot of the time came down to a bad battery. Ive replaced the battery and now the majority is okay. However, after revving the engine, it cannot seem to catch its idle, it falls bellow and stalls instead.
I read up a few things and found that the only thing i havent checked is the eccentric shaft sensor (ESS). Today i tried removing it to clean but is being an absolute pig to remove. Its the fully enclosed version.
Was wondering if anyone had any tips to remove it? And if there is anything else anyone can think of to stop the engine stalling?
Ive had problems that a lot of the time came down to a bad battery. Ive replaced the battery and now the majority is okay. However, after revving the engine, it cannot seem to catch its idle, it falls bellow and stalls instead.
I read up a few things and found that the only thing i havent checked is the eccentric shaft sensor (ESS). Today i tried removing it to clean but is being an absolute pig to remove. Its the fully enclosed version.
Was wondering if anyone had any tips to remove it? And if there is anything else anyone can think of to stop the engine stalling?
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black PL 8 (03-20-2020)
#3
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iTrader: (1)
This is after replacing the battery? Disconnect the battery. Wait 30s, reconnect it, start the car and let it idle. It just needs to relearn how to be a car.
Once it's fully warmed up, go for a drive. It might still stall, but give it a couple of drive cycles and it should be fine.
Any idea of engine condition?
Once it's fully warmed up, go for a drive. It might still stall, but give it a couple of drive cycles and it should be fine.
Any idea of engine condition?
#4
First thing you need to check are engine codes. Did you get a code for the ESPS? If not, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you have no engine codes, the next step is a compression test. This is to rule out any type of engine damage that could cause stalling at low RPM (Stalling at low RPM is generally a suspected compression loss issue). If compression checks out good, your next step is to ensure your ignition system is healthy (Coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires and starter). If those check out, you need to clean MAF and check for any vacuum leaks. This is pretty much my whole step by step process for diagnosing engine problems in this car. If its still not fixed after all this, we can look at other issues in the intake, baro sensor, fuel pressure and exhaust.
#5
This is after replacing the battery? Disconnect the battery. Wait 30s, reconnect it, start the car and let it idle. It just needs to relearn how to be a car.
Once it's fully warmed up, go for a drive. It might still stall, but give it a couple of drive cycles and it should be fine.
Any idea of engine condition?
Once it's fully warmed up, go for a drive. It might still stall, but give it a couple of drive cycles and it should be fine.
Any idea of engine condition?
#6
First thing you need to check are engine codes. Did you get a code for the ESPS? If not, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you have no engine codes, the next step is a compression test. This is to rule out any type of engine damage that could cause stalling at low RPM (Stalling at low RPM is generally a suspected compression loss issue). If compression checks out good, your next step is to ensure your ignition system is healthy (Coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires and starter). If those check out, you need to clean MAF and check for any vacuum leaks. This is pretty much my whole step by step process for diagnosing engine problems in this car. If its still not fixed after all this, we can look at other issues in the intake, baro sensor, fuel pressure and exhaust.
#7
First thing you need to check are engine codes. Did you get a code for the ESPS? If not, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you have no engine codes, the next step is a compression test. This is to rule out any type of engine damage that could cause stalling at low RPM (Stalling at low RPM is generally a suspected compression loss issue). If compression checks out good, your next step is to ensure your ignition system is healthy (Coils, spark plugs, spark plug wires and starter). If those check out, you need to clean MAF and check for any vacuum leaks. This is pretty much my whole step by step process for diagnosing engine problems in this car. If its still not fixed after all this, we can look at other issues in the intake, baro sensor, fuel pressure and exhaust.
Cant drive to get a rotary compression test completed so i used a piston compression tester and a converter/calculator and the front rotor is comes out at 5.61, 5.61, 5.61 and the rear rotor is 6.19, 6.19, 6.19.
Where would you recommend i go from here? To ignition or are these results bad?
I know i should get a real compression test but i cannot afford the tester or move the car to be tested.
![Frown](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#8
No engine codes.
Cant drive to get a rotary compression test completed so i used a piston compression tester and a converter/calculator and the front rotor is comes out at 5.61, 5.61, 5.61 and the rear rotor is 6.19, 6.19, 6.19.
Where would you recommend i go from here? To ignition or are these results bad?
I know i should get a real compression test but i cannot afford the tester or move the car to be tested.![Frown](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Cant drive to get a rotary compression test completed so i used a piston compression tester and a converter/calculator and the front rotor is comes out at 5.61, 5.61, 5.61 and the rear rotor is 6.19, 6.19, 6.19.
Where would you recommend i go from here? To ignition or are these results bad?
I know i should get a real compression test but i cannot afford the tester or move the car to be tested.
![Frown](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#9
Registered
No engine codes.
Cant drive to get a rotary compression test completed so i used a piston compression tester and a converter/calculator and the front rotor is comes out at 5.61, 5.61, 5.61 and the rear rotor is 6.19, 6.19, 6.19.
Where would you recommend i go from here? To ignition or are these results bad?
I know i should get a real compression test but i cannot afford the tester or move the car to be tested.![Frown](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Cant drive to get a rotary compression test completed so i used a piston compression tester and a converter/calculator and the front rotor is comes out at 5.61, 5.61, 5.61 and the rear rotor is 6.19, 6.19, 6.19.
Where would you recommend i go from here? To ignition or are these results bad?
I know i should get a real compression test but i cannot afford the tester or move the car to be tested.
![Frown](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
1. Rebuild or install a rebuilt/remanufactured engine. Looking at anywhere from $4000 (if you DIY) to $7,000 (Done by mechanic).
2. Accept the loss now, sell the car as it sits and look for something in better condition. This is what I would personally recommend. These cars are cheap as chips in England. Make sure the car is compression tested before purchasing so you dont find yourself in this same nightmare again.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 03-04-2020 at 10:31 AM.
#10
#11
Registered
I'll just agree to disagree but factually it is close. I've done compression tests with both testers. Difference is +- 0.3 bar max. Ideally should use a rotary compression tester but if a regular one all you got it's good enough to get a general idea of engine health. It is a lot more difficult to do however and requires 60 FPS video recorder, video editing software (which you can get for free), and a spreadsheet but its doable. I just use the same directions provided by Drivenbymadness on YouTube.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 03-04-2020 at 12:24 PM.
#14
I'll just agree to disagree but factually it is close. I've done compression tests with both testers. Difference is +- 0.3 bar max. Ideally should use a rotary compression tester but if a regular one all you got it's good enough to get a general idea of engine health. It is a lot more difficult to do however and requires 60 FPS video recorder, video editing software (which you can get for free), and a spreadsheet but its doable. I just use the same directions provided by Drivenbymadness on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXZU7KKW6nc&t=1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXZU7KKW6nc&t=1s
#15
Registered
Except it isn't close, with a rotary specific compression tester you get a reading for each rotor face and the RPM, which is what you need to know what is happening in the engine. With a piston tester you get numbers and with the use of extra equipment you list and time, you can estimate the values at best. If you want precise and accurate numbers, which is what you should use to determine the need to rebuild/replace, you need a real rotary compression tester.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 03-04-2020 at 01:46 PM.
#16
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How about the excess void space in the tube between the spark plug hole and the mechanical gauge. All of the calculations and charts assume a minimal void space since the electronic pressure transducer is threaded directly into the plug hole.
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CaymanRotary (03-05-2020)
#17
Registered
Even if it's not completely accurate it's enough to know if you have low compression or not. if you have no access to a rotary tester, it's the next best thing is all I'm really saying.
edit: There is no Mazda dealer where I live and no one had the tester. That’s why I tested like this for so long.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 03-05-2020 at 06:44 AM.
#18
Except it isn't close, with a rotary specific compression tester you get a reading for each rotor face and the RPM, which is what you need to know what is happening in the engine. With a piston tester you get numbers and with the use of extra equipment you list and time, you can estimate the values at best. If you want precise and accurate numbers, which is what you should use to determine the need to rebuild/replace, you need a real rotary compression tester.
The following 2 users liked this post by NotAPreppie:
CaymanRotary (03-12-2020),
UnknownJinX (03-12-2020)
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