RX-8 Stuck in gear but not really?
#1
RX-8 Stuck in gear but not really?
Whats up guys,
I just moved over from the S-Chassis life but but ive owned multiple cars i'm pretty car literate.
Okay getting to the point,
recently i bought a 2004 RX-8 90k Miles, Very healthy good compression, premix, etc etc.
car is very well taken cared of,
i had a horrible 2nd gear grind, one night on a high roll i attempted to put it in 2nd and it grinded very bad then 5th gear would not go in neither 1st gear (i had to roll then put it in 1st)
This became an issue but eventually it continued going into 5th and every now and then 1st without having to roll it into gear.
I've heard this is due to 5th gear syncro breaking and pieces block off reverse. So i hear.
One morning im running some erands and the i been driving the car all morning and it decides to get stuck into reverse, when i yanked it out of reverse it would not manuver in neutral. It almost felt very dry and stiff.
i got it to go into gear a few days later (Big *** burnout cleared something out)
then i put it into reverse and it got stuck... again. So here i am, asking you guys for help and advice. I'm considering just swapping entire transmission but is this a common issue with an easy fix?
I just moved over from the S-Chassis life but but ive owned multiple cars i'm pretty car literate.
Okay getting to the point,
recently i bought a 2004 RX-8 90k Miles, Very healthy good compression, premix, etc etc.
car is very well taken cared of,
i had a horrible 2nd gear grind, one night on a high roll i attempted to put it in 2nd and it grinded very bad then 5th gear would not go in neither 1st gear (i had to roll then put it in 1st)
This became an issue but eventually it continued going into 5th and every now and then 1st without having to roll it into gear.
I've heard this is due to 5th gear syncro breaking and pieces block off reverse. So i hear.
One morning im running some erands and the i been driving the car all morning and it decides to get stuck into reverse, when i yanked it out of reverse it would not manuver in neutral. It almost felt very dry and stiff.
i got it to go into gear a few days later (Big *** burnout cleared something out)
then i put it into reverse and it got stuck... again. So here i am, asking you guys for help and advice. I'm considering just swapping entire transmission but is this a common issue with an easy fix?
#3
Sorry for quoting i'm not really used to using forums.
It's stuck in reverse but i have minimum movement. I can put it in Reverse and just SLIGHTLY move it up. While the vehicle is running its making a grinding noise without the clutch being engaged (idles very weird)
Unless, i put pressure on it foward so its not touching the gear it will idle perfectly fine.
#4
Money isn't really an issue i just want to make sure my car is healthy and running as should.
If i buy a new/used transmission i'm going to go ahead and change clutch out, 1 piece driveshaft and lightweight flywheel.
If i buy a new/used transmission i'm going to go ahead and change clutch out, 1 piece driveshaft and lightweight flywheel.
#7
I would pull the shifter out and see if it looks OK. Does the car have the OEM shifter?
There is a lockout tab on the shifter that has to go below the plate on the top of the transmission tower to allow it into reverse.
There is a lockout tab on the shifter that has to go below the plate on the top of the transmission tower to allow it into reverse.
#8
I'll def be on these forums a lot. When i pull that shifter out ill go ahead and snap some pictures just incase i don't catch anything abnormal. Even if i do i'll go ahead and snap some for future purposes towards other users that might be having the same issue.
+1
#9
If it were me,
I would get a new or rebuilt transmission. And yeah, when you have it out, clutch, release bearing, and a light flywheel. If I did mine over, I would get the street lite variety, A tad heavier, but more able to suck up the noise. Any of them are a huge difference from OEM. OEM has a lot of weight at the rim. And, stick with OEM clutch unless FI.
I would get a new or rebuilt transmission. And yeah, when you have it out, clutch, release bearing, and a light flywheel. If I did mine over, I would get the street lite variety, A tad heavier, but more able to suck up the noise. Any of them are a huge difference from OEM. OEM has a lot of weight at the rim. And, stick with OEM clutch unless FI.
#10
If it were me,
I would get a new or rebuilt transmission. And yeah, when you have it out, clutch, release bearing, and a light flywheel. If I did mine over, I would get the street lite variety, A tad heavier, but more able to suck up the noise. Any of them are a huge difference from OEM. OEM has a lot of weight at the rim. And, stick with OEM clutch unless FI.
I would get a new or rebuilt transmission. And yeah, when you have it out, clutch, release bearing, and a light flywheel. If I did mine over, I would get the street lite variety, A tad heavier, but more able to suck up the noise. Any of them are a huge difference from OEM. OEM has a lot of weight at the rim. And, stick with OEM clutch unless FI.
#11
it is a different car.
A well running rotary is awesome. I have had a lot of cars, but this one is an entirely different experience. People do not realize that a 90% dead rotary will run like new, just will not make the power and be a bit difficult to start hot. I used to track Brandy (RIP) and when I tested the motor, I failed on 5 out of 6 faces, with 2 in the 50 psi range. I was still passing cars.
A well running rotary is awesome. I have had a lot of cars, but this one is an entirely different experience. People do not realize that a 90% dead rotary will run like new, just will not make the power and be a bit difficult to start hot. I used to track Brandy (RIP) and when I tested the motor, I failed on 5 out of 6 faces, with 2 in the 50 psi range. I was still passing cars.
#12
it is a different car.
A well running rotary is awesome. I have had a lot of cars, but this one is an entirely different experience. People do not realize that a 90% dead rotary will run like new, just will not make the power and be a bit difficult to start hot. I used to track Brandy (RIP) and when I tested the motor, I failed on 5 out of 6 faces, with 2 in the 50 psi range. I was still passing cars.
A well running rotary is awesome. I have had a lot of cars, but this one is an entirely different experience. People do not realize that a 90% dead rotary will run like new, just will not make the power and be a bit difficult to start hot. I used to track Brandy (RIP) and when I tested the motor, I failed on 5 out of 6 faces, with 2 in the 50 psi range. I was still passing cars.
Really looking to see if i can just put a rb20 in this and beat it to death
#13
@Iredline..
your car, you get to pick. before you chose, ride in one with a good motor. My new motors were head and shoulders above the old ones. Out of the box, the renesis had the same power as the FD Turbo.
your car, you get to pick. before you chose, ride in one with a good motor. My new motors were head and shoulders above the old ones. Out of the box, the renesis had the same power as the FD Turbo.
#14
Thanks for the advice,
i went ahead and figured out my problem with the car...
i just got rid of it completely.