Rx8 1.3 renesis won't start
#1
Rx8 1.3 renesis won't start
Hey everybody I just got an rx8. 2004 renesis. Having problems getting it started. When I first got it, it wouldn't crank. Ecu fuse was blown. Replaced a bunch of fuses. Now it will crank but still won't start. Sputters a bit but won't fire up. Any suggestions? I've tried deflood procedure already a few times.
#2
#4
Did you have a compression test completed prior to purchase? if so, what were your numbers? Aside from the worst case scenario of you purchasing a blown vehicle, I agree with the prior posts. Check your spark plugs, read up on de-flooding procedures, and if these dont work, consider a compression test (assuming you had not gotten one) as well as new coils. Also check https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/ and https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ot-8-a-202548/ as these have a wealth of knowledge that will assist you in your journey with your Rx8. Best of luck to you, report back after you have gotten some troubleshooting completed
#5
So im having a similar problem when I bought the car it would crank for a while then turn on when warm and drove amazingly but one day she died coming to a light now she wont turn on unless i feather the peddle and pray my little heart out i ordered a new starter to combat the long crank i cleaned the ess and the maf and still nothing i tried the de flood process by unplugging the baro sensor and it obviously threw a code but no fuel or smoke came out so i know its not flooded do i need a new motor do i need to pray some more any suggestions please help!
#6
What has the bar sensor got to do with deflooding?
#7
I unplugged the bar and the secondary air pump to be safe and deflooded the motor as instructed foot on both gas and clutch crank her for 10 seconds wait a minute then repeat about 6 - 10 times or till theres no more **** coming out the tail pipe
#8
If it is a MT...just pull start it. It is way easier and much more likely to work...and a lot easier.on your starter than prolonged cranking
#9
Originally Posted by dannobre
Who told you to do that? Air pump is fine but why disconnect the baro sensor? Foot all the way to the floor shuts off the fuel. Anything else will flood it more. If you are going to pull the plugs disconnect the ESS if it is really wet so you can crank it and not worry about fuel or spark
If it is a MT...just pull start it. It is way easier and much more likely to work...and a lot easier.on your starter than prolonged cranking
If it is a MT...just pull start it. It is way easier and much more likely to work...and a lot easier.on your starter than prolonged cranking
#10
Put in the front tow hook...and pull it to about 10 mph. ..let the clutch out with the ignition on and it 8n gear...and it should start quite quickly...Usually in about 100 feet or less. Keep it reved up till it is running on its own
Not sure from your description that it is flooded though.
#11
Get another car to tow you at low speed while you turn the car to ON and let out the clutch so the wheels turn the engine. Should clear it right up.
If you want to get to the bottom of the problem, you may want to pull your spark plugs and see if they need to be replaced, and clean them at the same time.
If you want to get to the bottom of the problem, you may want to pull your spark plugs and see if they need to be replaced, and clean them at the same time.
#12
Originally Posted by dannobre
Put in the front tow hook...and pull it to about 10 mph. ..let the clutch out with the ignition on and it 8n gear...and it should start quite quickly...Usually in about 100 feet or less. Keep it reved up till it is running on its own
Not sure from your description that it is flooded though.
Not sure from your description that it is flooded though.
#13
Please try and give us more details...maybe in point form. I'm having difficulty following the symptoms...especially on more than one thread.
If you have the skills...pull the plugs and post a picture...that might help the most
Idle is complicated...it takes the throttle body, temp sensors, ESS sensor, ignition coils, fuel system, transmission switches and many more things to work properly
The idle relies on the T plugs and coils more than at higher RPM's..sometimes failed T coils will impact idle and it will run fine at higher rpm and loads
The throttle body has the idle air control circuit built in..sometimes if the TB is dirty it won't idle well either
Give us some more details and we might be able to be more specific where to look
If you have the skills...pull the plugs and post a picture...that might help the most
Idle is complicated...it takes the throttle body, temp sensors, ESS sensor, ignition coils, fuel system, transmission switches and many more things to work properly
The idle relies on the T plugs and coils more than at higher RPM's..sometimes failed T coils will impact idle and it will run fine at higher rpm and loads
The throttle body has the idle air control circuit built in..sometimes if the TB is dirty it won't idle well either
Give us some more details and we might be able to be more specific where to look
#14
My last post was my main concern at the moment its the idle issue if i let go of the peddle she kinda just chokes and rpms drop once it hits like 1700 rpms she starts to like bubble out and if i dont give it gas before it hit 800 it dies but if i do it stays cranking as if its a normal motor i just don't understand whats wrong as i said before i cleaned the maf and ess did the 20 peddle stomp unplugged the battery did the odo test light thing did the steering wheel sweep pretty much everything i read that would restart the ecu kam nvam pretty much any computer possible side note on start up it just cranks and cranks ( I bought a new starter haven't installed it yet ) on cold starts if i feather the accelerator she turns on but on warm starts no matter how much i feather she wont fire up
#15
No idle
My last post was my main concern at the moment its the idle issue if i let go of the peddle she kinda just chokes and rpms drop once it hits like 1700 rpms she starts to like bubble out and if i dont give it gas before it hit 800 it dies but if i do it stays cranking as if its a normal motor i just don't understand whats wrong as i said before i cleaned the maf and ess did the 20 peddle stomp unplugged the battery did the odo test light thing did the steering wheel sweep pretty much everything i read that would restart the ecu kam nvam pretty much any computer possible side note on start up it just cranks and cranks ( I bought a new starter haven't installed it yet ) on cold starts if i feather the accelerator she turns on but on warm starts no matter how much i feather she wont fire up
#17
Originally Posted by djgiron
Sounds like compression to me, especially the warm start problem. You should probably get a compression test and cross your fingers.
#18
Just got an '04 myself...A/T,lol. she wouldn't start when first got her. But lots of juice(RED35), hot spark(new NGK plug&Wires) and MAZDA OEM coils(all 4 $305) pulled fuse 10 sec, 3 sec later fires and runs like a champ. Any new guy should do this by used. lol
#19
Id check out the BHR ignition kit if you are going to go with Mazda dealer coils. It's a little more money, but you get a much better ignition system.
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