Good day ladies and gentlemen,

I am desperately looking for help with my RX8. Tried looking for answers in RX8 club for a really long time, however never found the answer for my RX8.

Short story about my RX8. I have 2007 full power version 178kw, 6spd manual. Recent modifications/changes(about 12k km or 7.5k miles ago): Full Toyosports exhaust system, including cat back, D585 ignition coils, handmade ignition wires, new NGK spark plugs, rebuilt engine from UK Apex Rotory with street porting, SOHN adapter, fuel injectors, first lambda o2 sensor, 6 pads ceramic clutch.

So long story short my car still has a lot of issues, which nobody knows answers to, at least in my country (Lithuania). Rotaries here are exotics and nobody gives a f about them here.

Firs issue: I noticed it after all these changes were done. While my car warms up, it has strange noises, sounds like belt pulley or something like that (slight metal noises with timing, gets stronger if cars is colder). After getting to normal temperature, strange sound disappear, however Rx8 start to miss idle, between 1k and 700rpms, recovering, sometimes it works fine, but most of the time I have idle issues. If for instance I go downhill on neutral gear, car idle perfectly. Dunno. Car starts like a clock, same goes for warm, no starting issues..Checked on compression, all fine.
Second issue: About 700 miles ago, I noticed that my car has acceleration issues, car goes well only after 4k rpms, till then I feel a great power loss. Could it be Fuel pump? I used to premix.. Cleaned MAF. Changed air filter. Oh, and fuel efficiency is really bad. About 22l/100km or 12mpg.
Third issue: SOHN adapter does not take any oil or I am getting paranoia, however car still goes ;D Checked on oil pump, lines have red oil in them, no air bubbles. How can I check it? Is it normal? It should have taken at least 1l of oil right?
Forth issue: I am changing first Lambda O2 sensor like a maniac(tried each ~100 miles) still gives me cel code - sensor is dead..I have no catalyst(as it was glowing red, got rid of it), however cel code is not appearing for second lambda sensor.

Thank You in advance!

 

You need to make sure the auxiliary port valves are opening all the way. There is a motor on the right side of the engine that rotates them open. You should make sure that the motor is working properly and scan the car for codes. if the motor is not opening properly, it will set a code. The auxiliary port valves are known to stick from carbon, so I hope they were cleaned and lubricated when the engine was rebuilt.

The rough idle could simply be bad engine mounts It will will as though the engine is idling rough, however, you may just be feeling vibration from worn mounts.

 

You can also check for vacuum leaks
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...m-leak-207617/

 

Well rotaries are known for their bad fuel economy and yours is the high powered version, so I don't think that's bad. Of course it depends on driving style.

 

22L /100km is pretty terrible. Check your fuel trims via OBD, they might point to the problem.

You shouldn't really need to change the front O2 sensor at all.. certainly not every X miles. What is the actual code? Perhaps the wiring is damaged?

If you want to chase the sound, get a stick of wood and apply one end to your ear and the other end to various parts of the engine. When you touch the part that is making the sound, you will hear it through the stick.

Oil consumption: what kind of container are you keeping the oil in, and does it have a vent to allow air in? If it's not pumping at all something is wrong and you probably shouldn't drive it or premix if you do.

 

Idle and acceleration issue sounds like a coil. Just went through same problem and coils weren't very old

 

So all of a sudden as I' driving today my car loses power it goes down to like 10mph it will gradually get to around 30 mph and the engine light has come on does anyone know what I should look at I had a autoparts store try to read code but kept coming up linking eror and then a shop put the reader inand it gave a couple of codes but he didnt tell me what they were and said I will need to take it to the dealer cuz the part is coming up for $1400 I think he said TBS oil something Anyone know what I need to look at?

 

 

Can you ask him again what the codes were? We can't really guess what he may or may not have meant, unless you want to take a $1400 gamble. Could be literally anything.

The symptoms sound like the OMP, but usually it's the wiring for the OMP rather than the OMP itself. Much cheaper to fix. Are you comfortable working on your own car or you need to bring it somewhere? Most shops won't know what to do with a rotary, so try to find a rotary specialist who knows what to do.

 

My center lights have been going nuts they go out and my air s
huts off my display goes haywire and if I hit the dadh it will all conc back on also the abs light came on today and the dsc I can't work on the car myself but wanted to hear what it could be before trying uo take it somewhere the guy that tested my car wouldn't give me the codes I guess cuz he was just trying to get business not really sure but it sounded like he said tbs but I can't find anything about that

 

 

Battery terminals are clean how would that affect the sudden slow acceleration?? And engine light coming on??

 

Electronics not getting steady current can cause all kinds of gremlins. The low acceleration sounds like limp mode, which triggers most commonly if the the computer sees OMP sensor problems. Bad battery connection gives you sensor problems. All these lights coming on at the same time points to a bigger problem than any one of those systems. What do they all have in common? The battery.

I'm not saying it's that for sure, but trying to eliminate easy/cheap stuff first before you start spending money.

Clean but are they tight?

 

Thank you...yes clean and tight. I've been having the display going crazy for awhile if I hit dash they come back on but not having the money to take it in hurts. The AC and defrost buttons started going off the AC would stop and you could only get fan air coming up the front window then all of a sudden it would come back on does all of this have something to do with the sudden loss of power and engine light coming on?? Is there anyone in Ft.Myers FL. That is on this group and can work on mine? Don't think I can afford a shop I'm on disability and low funds. I'm trying to find out as much as I can before taking it in cuz being female they don't expect you to know about cars and I at least want to have an idea of what you look at. Thanks so much for any help you can give much appreciated!!

 

Any AutoZone or most other chains will read the codes for free, so if the guy you saw won't give them to you, I'd try to make your way to one of those to get the actual codes. We'll have a much better idea of what to do then.

The A/C and center screen situation sounds like a loose connection. You could take apart the center stack to make sure everything there is snug. Just need a phillips head screwdrive and 12mm (I think) hex socket. It's possible a solder inside the a/c control unit behind the controls has given way, which would be a more difficult repair.

ABS and DSC lights coming on together sounds like wheel speed sensor failure, but that's a guess. Need codes to confirm.

 

Apex Rotary !! they have a really bad reputation here in the UK , terrible builds and plenty of unhappy customers! probably one of the worst engine builders about! Gone bust several times, keeps changing the company name, offers very cheap rebuilds<<<<<<<<
Think he now trades as solent rotary, was chambers rotary before that apex rotary .
If you have an engine problem don't expect any customer service.

 

I did take it to autozoAu and it kept reading linking error and then I took it to a close shop that is the guy that wouldn't give me the codes said there was a couple and then he said the part is coming up $1400 but the dealer would have to do it that's when I thought he said TBS but I've never heard of that

 

 

Not much you can do other than getting a new engine.

You can maybe buy some time with the ATF trick or a Zoom-Zoom cleaning kit/Seafoam, but don't expect it to work and it will only be a temporary fix.

Also, check your ignition components, this includes coils, wires and plugs.