wilas57

I just finish changing one bulb from the headlights, so i took out all the bumper and i starting to drive and after the car reaches 3rpm all the lights goes on but if i slow down they all turn off, pls help!!

Legot

iTrader: (1)

This is exciting! Could you show us a video?

How is the car running? You say it revs to 3(k) RPM, but does it do it well? Beyond that how does the engine sound? Are there any beeps that go off when the lights go on? Were there any problems at all before this problem started?

What did you actually do to the car when switching lights? Did you unplug anything, or pull anything that looked like a bundle of wires?

wilas57

Well first the the car has trouble starting it takes longer than usaually, after that i have to keep the car over 1rpm if not the engine will sound like if its going to turn off, when i drive it and pass the 3rpm, all the lights from the dashboard goes on and power steering, battery, tire sensor all of those turn on, and also the radio shuts off and on, and the passenger windows gets down super slow and it gets up super fast

wilas57

I wanted to change the buld from the headlight to an led it was the buld the smallest one, thats the only thing i unplug

Mysterion

I thought I felt a disturbance in The Force.
When you say "headlight", do you mean the high/low beam bulb or one of the smaller park light bulbs? I upgraded both of my park light bulbs to LED with no issues (just have to make certain the polarity is correct as LED's have to be plugged in positive to positive feed or they won't fire. However, if it was the actual headlamp bulb, are you referring to a Xenon bulb in place of a halogen bulb? If the car was built to use Halogen, trying to substitute a Xenon might be the cause of your problems as the different current draw without the appropriate ballast unit to control voltage and amperage might be baffling your electrical system monitoring section of the ECM.

wilas57

Yes is one of the small one the smallest bulb in the headlight, i though it was the alternator and i send it to rebuild and i put it back and now my car wont start, also my high light doesnt work and nether the fog lights work

Mysterion

By the smallest, I take it you mean the little push-in bulb with no metal base. That would be the park lamp and uses a #194 bulb as standard but a lot of people (myself included) convert these to LED's. The trick with LED's is that they have to be installed in the correct polarity. There is a very definite positive side which MUST be connected to the positive lead or the bulb will not work.
What puzzles me is the connection between 1 bulb not working and concluding that the alternator has failed. As mentioned above, reversing the polarity of A single LED wouldn't in itself, cause other items to fail, just the LED itself. However, what's done is done so on to the alternator. When it was installed, it may be possible that you did one of three things: 1) 2 leads were reversed and connected to the wrong posts or 2) in disconnecting the alternator leads, another harness may have been disturbed breaking the connection or 3) the alternator was swapped out with the battery still connected and one or more fuses blew.

I realize this may seem a bit vague, but I can't see what was done so all I can do is point you to common areas of error. It will be up to you, now, to check these areas for errors and correct them. If you feel there might be a wiring issue like reversed leads, ask RIWWP nicely and perhaps he has a wiring diagram or illustration that will help you trace the wiring.

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Your battery is in working order, right? Current delivery issues can cause a large number of ECU failure modes at once. I'd still like a video to see what is actually going on on the gauge cluster.

Are there any clicks when you turn the key to "ON?"

wilas57

How can i upload a video? Iam kind of new

Freaky

i have a similar problem. I can drive fine if I keep the rpm under 4000. If I try to accelerate and rev above 4-5k i get all the idiot lights on, lose power steering, scratchy noises from the under the dash like static or sparks, and the cabin air blower will suddenly run at high speed. If i come off the gas it fixes itself once the rpms drop under 3k. I think perhaps the alternator pulley is too small and the alternator is over-volting or something like that. I will try to capture video tomorrow.

Freaky

So I replaced the alternator belt and went for a drive. Perfect, no electrical issues. Stopped and bought some groceries. Launched out a green light at a sedate pace and when it went above 5k it happened again. I think some part of the alternator cannot work to full capacity when it is warm. I am going to try ventilating the alternator somehow, and see if that fixes the problem.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it's overcharging. People have had issues with aftermarket alternators for whatever reason , if it's not OEM try to find an OEM one.

Never heard of heat being an issue for it otherwise.

Freaky

Thanks Loki, that could very well be the problem. Funny thing, i got my cell phone ready, pulled away from a traffic light and ran second gear up to 6500 rpm. It did not "do the thing". Ugggghhhhh.

Freaky

So the alternator pulley checks out as factory standard. The alternator is not OEM, but worked fine in the previous engine. I am going to put my bluetooth OBD scanner in and see what the heck is going on in real time. Gotta be either over-volting or under-volting, unless there is some undocumented safety circuit looking at oxygen readings or some other nuance.