Rx8 club was right I was wrong I need some help
10-01-2020, 01:25 PM
#26
Registered
do you think it could be the fluid mazda trix put in it needs changed? I'm gonna end up calling in some favors and getting it on a trailer and taking it to mazda but it makes no since I went new all the way around so I didn't run into these issues lol I've got bad luck I guess
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 10-01-2020 at 01:29 PM.
10-01-2020, 01:29 PM
#27
I have two new ones cause I thought my old ones were good but I'll change them out and the fluid in the transmission just to be on the safe side
10-01-2020, 03:56 PM
#28
One other thing I just thought about. Are your engine mounts in good shape as well? While rare it could be a cause. I'm just out of ideas for simple things to look for. If the fluid level is low it can also cause these issues. Don't need to drain the trans but you could try to add more fluid and see if it was low.
10-01-2020, 04:01 PM
#30
10-01-2020, 04:53 PM
#32
You have air in the line . Bleeding the clutch can be is one of most difficult things to do on these cars. It's due to the clutch and brakes sharing the same reservoir and the clutch having to pull fluid through a line to get the the master cylinder. To overcome this you need to either pressurise the reservoir with 2-3psi (max) or use vacuum at the other end. Positive pressure at the reservoir works better IMO but it's harder to do.
10-01-2020, 06:18 PM
#33
77 cylinders, 4 rotors...
two things:
How about some pictures of the aluminum housings you used.
When you said the rear wheels turn, can you turn them more than one revolution with the clutch pushed in? And, when you spin them by hand, is the opposite one turning in the opposite direction at the same time?
How about some pictures of the aluminum housings you used.
When you said the rear wheels turn, can you turn them more than one revolution with the clutch pushed in? And, when you spin them by hand, is the opposite one turning in the opposite direction at the same time?
10-01-2020, 06:41 PM
#34
two things:
How about some pictures of the aluminum housings you used.
When you said the rear wheels turn, can you turn them more than one revolution with the clutch pushed in? And, when you spin them by hand, is the opposite one turning in the opposite direction at the same time?
How about some pictures of the aluminum housings you used.
When you said the rear wheels turn, can you turn them more than one revolution with the clutch pushed in? And, when you spin them by hand, is the opposite one turning in the opposite direction at the same time?
10-01-2020, 06:45 PM
#35
You have air in the line . Bleeding the clutch can be is one of most difficult things to do on these cars. It's due to the clutch and brakes sharing the same reservoir and the clutch having to pull fluid through a line to get the the master cylinder. To overcome this you need to either pressurise the reservoir with 2-3psi (max) or use vacuum at the other end. Positive pressure at the reservoir works better IMO but it's harder to do.
10-01-2020, 06:55 PM
#36
it was beautiful Cayman it idles smoothly until its warmed up it still dies after on it's own but that could be from the bridge port not being dinod yet now for the new problem while on Jack's I managed to slip it in first and that bad news is when I did that it literally on went a max of 8mph on the dash and was surging the whole time is there a safety mechanism for when the front wheels dont spin?
10-01-2020, 07:26 PM
#38
10-01-2020, 07:32 PM
#39
it was beautiful Cayman it idles smoothly until its warmed up it still dies after on it's own but that could be from the bridge port not being dinod yet now for the new problem while on Jack's I managed to slip it in first and that bad news is when I did that it literally on went a max of 8mph on the dash and was surging the whole time is there a safety mechanism for when the front wheels dont spin?
If you have M/E , start by adjusting all the idle maps (except mapE) to 1500 at operating temp
10-01-2020, 07:37 PM
#40
It idles fine till it's warm because it's reving higher and in open loop . As soon as it goes into closed loop and the ECU tries to adjust it to run right it's like "WTF some newb bridge ported me " and throws a spaz.
If you have M/E , start by adjusting all the idle maps (except mapE) to 1500 at operating temp
If you have M/E , start by adjusting all the idle maps (except mapE) to 1500 at operating temp
10-01-2020, 08:39 PM
#42
10-01-2020, 09:10 PM
#43
I've seen that message many times ..... I'm assuming you modified the file you downloaded from the ECU and are now trying to load a modified map back in ?
Just unplug everything and plug it back in close mazdaedit then reopen ....................and try again.
Just unplug everything and plug it back in close mazdaedit then reopen ....................and try again.
10-01-2020, 09:49 PM
#44
correction not stubborn just making sure I dont kill my original map if I'm correct
Last edited by Hailtodachief; 10-01-2020 at 10:02 PM.
10-01-2020, 10:27 PM
#45
Registered
It idles fine till it's warm because it's reving higher and in open loop . As soon as it goes into closed loop and the ECU tries to adjust it to run right it's like "WTF some newb bridge ported me " and throws a spaz.
If you have M/E , start by adjusting all the idle maps (except mapE) to 1500 at operating temp
If you have M/E , start by adjusting all the idle maps (except mapE) to 1500 at operating temp
10-02-2020, 12:48 PM
#46
10-02-2020, 01:15 PM
#47
ya I should of stayed stock till I knew more about it i research but I didnt research enough I did take it for a spin and it drives good just have to keep it alive with some gas pedal but the clutch is still gone and it doesn't want to go into reverse at all you know when you push the stick downward it isnt smooth and just wants to stay down you have to pull it up with two hands
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