Rx8 mishap
#1
Rx8 mishap
So I bought this perfect one owner2008 rx8 72k on the dash. Perfect car had a cel for the intake mainifold tuining valve which is simple fix but a month into me owning the car second time driving in the rain I spin out and **** up my whole right side and my under side where my rad and ac condenser is I took it to a body shop and a rotary mechanic they fixed my car got it running again but I get it back my door lights stay on I have abs light I know the abs is my right side speed sensor and I have my solenoids to fix my problems but I can’t figure out the door switch and my overheating but not over heating I drive hard she gets hot once I get off cools back down to operating temps. Please give me some advice I’m not a complete idiot with these cars but it is my first one to own.
#4
Smoking turbo yay
PLEASE. USE. PUNCTUATIONS.
Now that I got that out of the system, the door switch is below the hook at the front of the rear door, so chances are the switch is either disconnected or broken.
Have no idea what you were saying about the overheating so please install Grammarly on your browser.
Also, if you spun out in the rain, you need to slow down(don't be one of those Toyota Yaris I see in winter that flies down the city road at 45mph/70+km/h), and you need better tires.
Now that I got that out of the system, the door switch is below the hook at the front of the rear door, so chances are the switch is either disconnected or broken.
Have no idea what you were saying about the overheating so please install Grammarly on your browser.
Also, if you spun out in the rain, you need to slow down(don't be one of those Toyota Yaris I see in winter that flies down the city road at 45mph/70+km/h), and you need better tires.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 05-12-2019 at 06:12 PM.
#5
Thanks for reply so let’s see if I can break it down to you, I always make sure my car is warmed up before driving. I’ve driven the car across the state before the accident and it was a dream come true perfect enjoyable ride. Now 4 months into my ownership of this rx8 it’s still drives the same I’ve put back the oem wheels and good tires on. Mind you the person I took my car too for it to get repaired half *** did it but what would you expect from 2400$ I have pictures of the accident still, but when I drive now in 90 degree weather it will go 3/4 of the way to h ( dummy gauge) after doing my redline a day. Once I bring the rpms down to about 4K and cruise it will go back down gradually. The mechanic that worked on my car got the rad / ac condenser from the junkyard -.- ( should of went new like I told him ) so I’m thinking it’s the rad plus my undertray and not using the fl-22 coolant Mazda recommends. I hope you can understand my situation.
#6
Smoking turbo yay
Thanks for reply so let’s see if I can break it down to you, I always make sure my car is warmed up before driving. I’ve driven the car across the state before the accident and it was a dream come true perfect enjoyable ride. Now 4 months into my ownership of this rx8 it’s still drives the same I’ve put back the oem wheels and good tires on. Mind you the person I took my car too for it to get repaired half *** did it but what would you expect from 2400$ I have pictures of the accident still, but when I drive now in 90 degree weather it will go 3/4 of the way to h ( dummy gauge) after doing my redline a day. Once I bring the rpms down to about 4K and cruise it will go back down gradually. The mechanic that worked on my car got the rad / ac condenser from the junkyard -.- ( should of went new like I told him ) so I’m thinking it’s the rad plus my undertray and not using the fl-22 coolant Mazda recommends. I hope you can understand my situation.
One thing to know, there is no need to warm up the car before you drive, since this car is fuel injected. In fact, this just wastes gas. Turn on your car, wait for 15 seconds(so put on your seat belt, sort out your car audio, etc.), and drive gently under 4k RPM until the car is warm.
I would use FL-22 for sure. Dexcool is known to harm the silicon components in the engine, which, in a rotary's case, is the coolant seal.
Is the cooling system properly bled? That could be another problem here. Wait until the engine is cool, and then remove the coolant cap. You then idle the car until it's warm without the cap and see if the level drops. Add coolant as needed, and put the cap back on afterwards.
#7
I may have to drain and rebleed my system cause the mechanic who did it before he put very little coolant in the car and it would steam up I topped it off and it was staying cooler a lot better but it still gets hot in this 90•weather plus only when I drive hard. I still have my cat which will be deleted soon.
#8
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I would stop driving until you have the undertray back in place and the correct coolant level. You're risking destroying your engine with each trip above normal operating temp. These engines do not do well with overheating, even at the level you're experiencing.
The radiator can't do it's job if air isn't going througj it, that is what the undertray is for.
The radiator can't do it's job if air isn't going througj it, that is what the undertray is for.
#9
I know these engines have a high tolerance for heat management but as of right now she’s my daily 🙄I can drive it and not get the temps above half way so I’m not sure if it still a possible to risk damage. But I do understand I need that undertray ASAP
#10
So here is an update on my car so far, the door light switch. The problem I see there is since my right side both doors has been replaced so the wiring for my door switch has been burnt up so I have to figure out a way to ground out from the cars plugin switch side on the frame. Not sure how that’s going to work.
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