rx8 r3 wont start after winter storage
#1
rx8 r3 wont start after winter storage
Hello,
My rx8 2010 r3 wont start after winter storage.
I do the same thing i do every winter.
Unplug the battery and put fuel stabilizer.
The car ran totally fine before storage. I stored it after I took it for a drive and it was warmed up.
I pushed the car out of the garage and tried to start it but it just wont start.
How could it possibly flood when I haven't drivin it or started it?
Any help would be appreciated.
My rx8 2010 r3 wont start after winter storage.
I do the same thing i do every winter.
Unplug the battery and put fuel stabilizer.
The car ran totally fine before storage. I stored it after I took it for a drive and it was warmed up.
I pushed the car out of the garage and tried to start it but it just wont start.
How could it possibly flood when I haven't drivin it or started it?
Any help would be appreciated.
#3
Battery is good, checked with multi meter.
How is it possible to flood without driving/starting? I stored it after a good drive too.
#5
#6
Registered
I couldn’t really assume it’s low compression just yet. Even if it was low, it would still at least start cold. I would suspect an ignition system issue. Would start by examining spark plugs. OP, Before storage, when was the last time you replaced coils, spark plugs and wires?
#7
I couldn’t really assume it’s low compression just yet. Even if it was low, it would still at least start cold. I would suspect an ignition system issue. Would start by examining spark plugs. OP, Before storage, when was the last time you replaced coils, spark plugs and wires?
I ordered the BHR kit with the spark plugs and wires. I bought the car used and I've never changed them so it's been 2 summers of light driving.
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Gigawatz (05-04-2020)
#13
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
with a head that hard you won’t need to wear a helmet when racing
let me help you out though; 15 years of owning, racing, building, modifying, tuning on RX8s never have I ever had an engine either flood or not start, not even after cranking it up cold and turning it off, never after letting it sit for months on end with zero treatment, cranking slowly on a low battery in cold weather, and so on. I also never had any engine with low compression, or puke oil, or any other supposed expert opinion stuff people are going to feed you on here.
now that doesn’t mean I’m right though. Maybe just your luck a rat chewed through some wiring, or just your luck a fuse blew and you didn’t bother checking them all yet, or just your luck the ignition coils took a dump at the most inconvenient time, and so on. Nobody can accurately diagnose all the possible just your luck stuff over the internet. So all that just your luck kind of stuff aside, it’s likely low compression due to a lack of sealing oil which is more likely to happen with the thin Mazda spec 5W20 oil and also as I pointed out the battery needs to be strong/fully charged. A rotary engine is highly dependent on cranking speed to build low rpm compression.
good luck.
let me help you out though; 15 years of owning, racing, building, modifying, tuning on RX8s never have I ever had an engine either flood or not start, not even after cranking it up cold and turning it off, never after letting it sit for months on end with zero treatment, cranking slowly on a low battery in cold weather, and so on. I also never had any engine with low compression, or puke oil, or any other supposed expert opinion stuff people are going to feed you on here.
now that doesn’t mean I’m right though. Maybe just your luck a rat chewed through some wiring, or just your luck a fuse blew and you didn’t bother checking them all yet, or just your luck the ignition coils took a dump at the most inconvenient time, and so on. Nobody can accurately diagnose all the possible just your luck stuff over the internet. So all that just your luck kind of stuff aside, it’s likely low compression due to a lack of sealing oil which is more likely to happen with the thin Mazda spec 5W20 oil and also as I pointed out the battery needs to be strong/fully charged. A rotary engine is highly dependent on cranking speed to build low rpm compression.
good luck.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-23-2020 at 09:13 PM.
#14
with a head that hard you won’t need to wear a helmet when racing
let me help you out though; 15 years of owning, racing, building, modifying, tuning on RX8s never have I ever had an engine either flood or not start, not even after cranking it up cold and turning it off, never after letting it sit for months on end with zero treatment, cranking slowly on a low battery in cold weather, and so on. I also never had any engine with low compression, or puke oil, or any other supposed expert opinion stuff people are going to feed you on here.
now that doesn’t mean I’m right though. Maybe just your luck a rat chewed through some wiring, or just your luck a fuse blew and you didn’t bother checking them all yet, or just your luck the ignition coils took a dump at the most inconvenient time, and so on. Nobody can accurately diagnose all the possible just your luck stuff over the internet. So all that just your luck kind of stuff aside though, it’s likely low compression due to a lack of sealing oil which is more likely to happen with the thin Mazda spec 5W20 oil and also as I pointed out the battery needs to be strong/fully charged. A rotary engine is highly dependent on cranking speed to build low rpm compression.
good luck.
let me help you out though; 15 years of owning, racing, building, modifying, tuning on RX8s never have I ever had an engine either flood or not start, not even after cranking it up cold and turning it off, never after letting it sit for months on end with zero treatment, cranking slowly on a low battery in cold weather, and so on. I also never had any engine with low compression, or puke oil, or any other supposed expert opinion stuff people are going to feed you on here.
now that doesn’t mean I’m right though. Maybe just your luck a rat chewed through some wiring, or just your luck a fuse blew and you didn’t bother checking them all yet, or just your luck the ignition coils took a dump at the most inconvenient time, and so on. Nobody can accurately diagnose all the possible just your luck stuff over the internet. So all that just your luck kind of stuff aside though, it’s likely low compression due to a lack of sealing oil which is more likely to happen with the thin Mazda spec 5W20 oil and also as I pointed out the battery needs to be strong/fully charged. A rotary engine is highly dependent on cranking speed to build low rpm compression.
good luck.
What is your trick for not flooding then engine after turning it off cold?
I've been using 10w30 btw
Thanks
#16
Here's what i've done.
Pushed the car out of the garage, connected the battery. Tried to start it twice. It didn't start so I stopped because I didn't want to flood it.
I've ordered some new coils/spark plugs and wires to start as they haven't been replaced in my possession.
I haven't tried anything else yet because I was waiting for some advice on this forum before i screwed anything up.
Thanks
Pushed the car out of the garage, connected the battery. Tried to start it twice. It didn't start so I stopped because I didn't want to flood it.
I've ordered some new coils/spark plugs and wires to start as they haven't been replaced in my possession.
I haven't tried anything else yet because I was waiting for some advice on this forum before i screwed anything up.
Thanks
#17
Registered
Here's what i've done.
Pushed the car out of the garage, connected the battery. Tried to start it twice. It didn't start so I stopped because I didn't want to flood it.
I've ordered some new coils/spark plugs and wires to start as they haven't been replaced in my possession.
I haven't tried anything else yet because I was waiting for some advice on this forum before i screwed anything up.
Thanks
Pushed the car out of the garage, connected the battery. Tried to start it twice. It didn't start so I stopped because I didn't want to flood it.
I've ordered some new coils/spark plugs and wires to start as they haven't been replaced in my possession.
I haven't tried anything else yet because I was waiting for some advice on this forum before i screwed anything up.
Thanks
#18
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
well it doesn’t do any good to throw money at parts without doing some basic diagnosis first. You can pretty much count on it being one or a combination of:
no spark
no fuel
flooded
Just because it didn’t fire off doesn’t mean it flooded. So you rushed out to buy a new ignition, but if the fuel pump fuse etc blew and it’s just not getting fuel then that wasn’t such a good idea. Generally speaking if it’s flooded you’re going to get a strong raw gasoline smell out of the exhaust pipe. Alternatively, if you pull a leading spark plug out it would be wet with gasoline. You could also then check to see if the plug is firing while cranking by using an HEI spark tester. That’s just a general description, there are some procedures to follow for doing the spark test properly.
I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
no spark
no fuel
flooded
Just because it didn’t fire off doesn’t mean it flooded. So you rushed out to buy a new ignition, but if the fuel pump fuse etc blew and it’s just not getting fuel then that wasn’t such a good idea. Generally speaking if it’s flooded you’re going to get a strong raw gasoline smell out of the exhaust pipe. Alternatively, if you pull a leading spark plug out it would be wet with gasoline. You could also then check to see if the plug is firing while cranking by using an HEI spark tester. That’s just a general description, there are some procedures to follow for doing the spark test properly.
I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
#19
well it doesn’t do any good to throw money at parts without doing some basic diagnosis first. You can pretty much count on it being one or a combination of:
no spark
no fuel
flooded
Just because it didn’t fire off doesn’t mean it flooded. So you rushed out to buy a new ignition, but if the fuel pump fuse etc blew and it’s just not getting fuel then that wasn’t such a good idea. Generally speaking if it’s flooded you’re going to get a strong raw gasoline smell out of the exhaust pipe. Alternatively, if you pull a leading spark plug out it would be wet with gasoline. You could also then check to see if the plug is firing while cranking by using an HEI spark tester. That’s just a general description, there are some procedures to follow for doing the spark test properly.
I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
no spark
no fuel
flooded
Just because it didn’t fire off doesn’t mean it flooded. So you rushed out to buy a new ignition, but if the fuel pump fuse etc blew and it’s just not getting fuel then that wasn’t such a good idea. Generally speaking if it’s flooded you’re going to get a strong raw gasoline smell out of the exhaust pipe. Alternatively, if you pull a leading spark plug out it would be wet with gasoline. You could also then check to see if the plug is firing while cranking by using an HEI spark tester. That’s just a general description, there are some procedures to follow for doing the spark test properly.
I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
Made sure battery was fully charged.
Inspected all the lines that I could see, didn't notice any damage
Inspected fuses, no issues.
Tried the deflood procedure, no luck.
Like I said. I purchased new coils, spark plugs and wires because it was something I was going to do this summer regardless.
I grabbed the tune up set from BHR.
Once those come in I will pull the spark plugs and check them out.
Thanks
#20
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
You keep saying flooded, but haven’t provided any information to support that. It seems like maybe you see my words, but don’t understand their meaning. I only mean that to get your attention, not to be a jerk.
Can you hear the fuel pump run/hum for several seconds just turning the key to the on position without cranking it?
Can you smell raw fuel at the tailpipe right after cranking it with no-start?
Can you hear the fuel pump run/hum for several seconds just turning the key to the on position without cranking it?
Can you smell raw fuel at the tailpipe right after cranking it with no-start?
#21
You keep saying flooded, but haven’t provided any information to support that. It seems like maybe you see my words, but don’t understand their meaning. I only mean that to get your attention, not to be a jerk.
Can you hear the fuel pump run/hum for several seconds just turning the key to the on position without cranking it?
Can you smell raw fuel at the tailpipe right after cranking it with no-start?
Can you hear the fuel pump run/hum for several seconds just turning the key to the on position without cranking it?
Can you smell raw fuel at the tailpipe right after cranking it with no-start?
I did not say it's flooded.
I was just writting down what i've tried.
I didn't listen closely to the fuel pump but I will next time.
I didn't smell raw fuel.
#22
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
well ok, I did make that assumption based on you stating deflood procedure, but that serves no purpose if it’s not flooded.
I’m sure you recognize that it won’t start without gas.
Yet if it’s cranking with gas and not firing off then it either has no spark or is flooded and killing the spark. In either case you will have raw fuel in the engine and exhaust. My suggestion would be to pull one or both leading plugs immediately after cranking it with a no-start condition and see if they are wet with fuel.
If email or text is better then you can pm me your contact info if preferred.
I’m sure you recognize that it won’t start without gas.
Yet if it’s cranking with gas and not firing off then it either has no spark or is flooded and killing the spark. In either case you will have raw fuel in the engine and exhaust. My suggestion would be to pull one or both leading plugs immediately after cranking it with a no-start condition and see if they are wet with fuel.
If email or text is better then you can pm me your contact info if preferred.
#23
well ok, I did make that assumption based on you stating deflood procedure, but that serves no purpose if it’s not flooded.
I’m sure you recognize that it won’t start without gas.
Yet if it’s cranking with gas and not firing off then it either has no spark or is flooded and killing the spark. In either case you will have raw fuel in the engine and exhaust. My suggestion would be to pull one or both leading plugs immediately after cranking it with a no-start condition and see if they are wet with fuel.
If email or text is better then you can pm me your contact info if preferred.
I’m sure you recognize that it won’t start without gas.
Yet if it’s cranking with gas and not firing off then it either has no spark or is flooded and killing the spark. In either case you will have raw fuel in the engine and exhaust. My suggestion would be to pull one or both leading plugs immediately after cranking it with a no-start condition and see if they are wet with fuel.
If email or text is better then you can pm me your contact info if preferred.
I will send a message when I get those parts.
Thanks
#24
Registered
I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
#25
Like I said.
I was planning to swap out the ignition coils with BHR ones regardless of this situation happening.
The spark plugs were never changed in my possession and i've owned it for 2 summers, don't know when the last owner changed them.
I was planning to swap out the ignition coils with BHR ones regardless of this situation happening.
The spark plugs were never changed in my possession and i've owned it for 2 summers, don't know when the last owner changed them.