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I've read through the new member's thread, I've been investigating these forums, and have spent hours researching rotary engines. My mind is made up and my heart has fallen in love with the RX-8.
I have the opportunity to purchase a 2005 RX-8 with 79,000 miles on the chassis. The engine was rebuilt 500 miles ago by Defined Autoworks. So far I'm pursuing this, but if for some reason I'm told to reconsider, I'll do so. At the very best, just think about it more.
The compression was 95 and 90 I think. I'd have to double check. What other things should I get check out or ask?
I'd be buying it for 5000, and having him but a catback exhuast on for $500. Total price being 5500. Is this a good deal? Bad deal? What should I look for?
This is an Automatic, not a manual. With the redline being lower, will this be disadvantageous for the rotary? I wont be able to rev it quite as high?
Also, I noted that one of the brake light assembles had water/condensation in it. I looked up a fix for this and it seems simple enough. Is it a big deal?
Lastly, because it's an automatic. Just because he rebuilt the engine, what type of implications does that have on the tranny if any? How long do RX8 trannys last?
Get a proper rotary engine test before you buy. It'll be 3 pressures and a rpm per rotor. Then post the results. Less rpm= less power. I wouldn't worry about the trans. I haven't heard much about autos going bad.
He rebuilt the engine and is also the one who conducted the compression test.
He owns and operates a racing/performance shop and has been rebuilding rotaries for 15+ years. I'm comfortable with this, is there any need to have it or the engine checked by a third party?
When I took it for a test drive last night. I turned the AC on and it worked fine. When the car was going slow there was some vibration and it seemed to be caused by the AC. When you turn it off, it goes away.
It's normal to have a bit of vibration when AC cycles on, that should stop when AC cycles off. Ask him about the condition of motor mounts, that's a common failure point.
But just so you're really clear on this, you're buying the low power version of the car. 2004-2005 automatics came with 4-port engines, so unless the gentleman has done a bunch of work to convert it to 6-port, it's the (theoretically) 190hp version of the car instead of the (theoretically) 230hp version). In practice make that 150 and 190 respectively. Maybe this is fine for your goals, but just wanted to be crystal.
I think 5000 sounds good with a fresh rebuild assuming the rest is in good shape. This shop is a rotary expert? Because it's one thing to do a rebuild, it's another to do a rebuild that lasts more than 10,000 mi.
Those results are horse ****, the odds that all three numbers were the same front to rear are low. And he would know the cranking RPM if he used a rotary engine compression tester. I call bullshit.
It is only a 4 port. I think I'm alright with the reduced power. I'm 20 and as it stands, have a few tickets on my record already. The more power I' tempted with, I feel the easier it would be to take advantage of.
He said the motor mounts seemed ok, but that they were the originals. (Thoughts?)
This gentleman does appear to be an expert. I saw he's been a member on these boards for the last 8+ years. The bread and butter would be this isn't a joe off the street that rebuilds engines in his spare time. He rebuilds and enhances engines, specifically rotary engines as a career. With that said, he said the rebuild should last at least 80K miles of its taken care of properly.. Something I intended to do.
He said at the price he's selling it for, unfortunately not.
For $500 though, he'll give a 2yr/25,000mile warranty on his work (the engine).
^it was my idea to offer additional money for a warranty. He wasn't pushing it.
06-17-2015, 11:36 PM
Seeking Wisdom
