Which series should I buy
#1
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Which series should I buy
Hey guys, nee to the forum, I've searched but only found some partial answers, I want an rx8 bad, pretty sure a series 2 because they are more reliable but here's my question. If I was to get a series 1 and throw A pettit engine in it would it make it's reliability on par with a series 2, is there a certain engine they sell that would definitely do that? I dont want to mod anything other that maybe radiator and things that would improve longevity nothing really performance orientated I would prefer a gt as they have some more creature comforts and a sunroof. Thanks in advance for all the help.
#2
Smoking turbo yay
If you don't mod and can afford it, S2 all the way, assuming the car is cared for(so yeah rotary-specific compression test and all that).
S1 can be made more reliable but you still only have 2 injectors per rotor. Not something any aftermarket company can fix.
S1 can be made more reliable but you still only have 2 injectors per rotor. Not something any aftermarket company can fix.
#3
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^^ eh you can solve the injector thing with premix.
But, you're thinking about this wrong. The series doesn't determine reliability now that these cars are at least 8 years old. You want one with a fresh engine. Having a tired S2 will be a much worse experience than an S1 that just got a new engine, or that you will buy cheap with a dead engine and swap a well - built one into.
But, you're thinking about this wrong. The series doesn't determine reliability now that these cars are at least 8 years old. You want one with a fresh engine. Having a tired S2 will be a much worse experience than an S1 that just got a new engine, or that you will buy cheap with a dead engine and swap a well - built one into.
#4
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That's what I'm thinking if it's not a big difference get a series 1 with a blown motor and put a new motor In it, but if I do that and it ***** up I will be stabbed by my wife hahah that's why I'm thinking a series 2, what would be considered high miles for one I always assumed over 80k is pushing it.
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#8
Rican
Hard to find rust free in NY, took me a year and 1/2 to find mine, was one owner with 20k on the clock, only 2 days after it got to the dealership. After 4 1/2 years, still rust free, no winters, avoid driving on the rain and only 43k, but looking to put more miles on it this year
My suggestion, take your time, find a nice shell and then put a motor from a reputable source, but keep in mind, they no longer command any $, so whatever $ you throw at it, don't expect to get it back.
My suggestion, take your time, find a nice shell and then put a motor from a reputable source, but keep in mind, they no longer command any $, so whatever $ you throw at it, don't expect to get it back.
#9
You gonna eat that?
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I wouldn't care what series it is if the engine has good compression numbers from a rotary specific compression test.
To me that is the be all, end all factor.
I bought my '04 GT with 18k on it almost 7 years ago.
The engine is failing now with +93k on it, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a rust free S1 with a healthy engine.
Biased, but I think they look better too.
To me that is the be all, end all factor.
I bought my '04 GT with 18k on it almost 7 years ago.
The engine is failing now with +93k on it, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a rust free S1 with a healthy engine.
Biased, but I think they look better too.
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I wouldn't care what series it is if the engine has good compression numbers from a rotary specific compression test.
To me that is the be all, end all factor.
I bought my '04 GT with 18k on it almost 7 years ago.
The engine is failing now with +93k on it, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a rust free S1 with a healthy engine.
Biased, but I think they look better too.
To me that is the be all, end all factor.
I bought my '04 GT with 18k on it almost 7 years ago.
The engine is failing now with +93k on it, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a rust free S1 with a healthy engine.
Biased, but I think they look better too.
#11
Rican
Agree BC, but 7 years is a long time for these cars and if he is looking to put a "new" engine in it, then the compression test don't matter as long as it is rust free and not beat to hell. Now days, these are going so cheap that anything not garage kept or under 20k miles is a crap-shoot.
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Agree BC, but 7 years is a long time for these cars and if he is looking to put a "new" engine in it, then the compression test don't matter as long as it is rust free and not beat to hell. Now days, these are going so cheap that anything not garage kept or under 20k miles is a crap-shoot.
#13
You gonna eat that?
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My point was it really doesn't matter between S1 and S2 if the engine is healthy.
If a rebuild or reman is the plan, I don't think it makes that much difference, it's more about features and appearance.
But if there is a chance that an 8 can be found with a healthy engine, then S1 or S2 is moot, imo.
It's a matter of timing.
There may still be some garage queens with good engines that can pop up, or owners that have depended on others to take care of them that have minor issues that have been misdiagnosed.
Don't dismiss the possibility.
If a rebuild or reman is the plan, I don't think it makes that much difference, it's more about features and appearance.
But if there is a chance that an 8 can be found with a healthy engine, then S1 or S2 is moot, imo.
It's a matter of timing.
There may still be some garage queens with good engines that can pop up, or owners that have depended on others to take care of them that have minor issues that have been misdiagnosed.
Don't dismiss the possibility.
#14
Rican
BC good points, it's about proper research.
Either way, if you can get an 8 with a nice shell, decent compression #, you could enjoy it before doing some work to it, I know I am.
That said, we are all in borrowed time with the Renesis....
Either way, if you can get an 8 with a nice shell, decent compression #, you could enjoy it before doing some work to it, I know I am.
That said, we are all in borrowed time with the Renesis....
#15
Before you buy, do a compression test first. This is far more important than the series.
Pros and Cons and potential solutions
S1:
Con: Has a lower oil pressure, but you can fix that with an oil regulator.
Con: Missing an injector compare to S2, but as Loki mentioned, can be solved by premix.
Pro: You can run a Sohn adapter on S1, but not S2, which solves the quality (but not quantity,that's why I still recommend premix) issue.
S2:
Pro: Has higher oil pressure!
Pro: 3 injectors per rotor, more luburication.
Cons:Unable to run Sohn adapter. However, you may choose to use Idemitsu's rotary engine oil, which I belive (not supported by evidence) can solve the quality issue.
Pros and Cons and potential solutions
S1:
Con: Has a lower oil pressure, but you can fix that with an oil regulator.
Con: Missing an injector compare to S2, but as Loki mentioned, can be solved by premix.
Pro: You can run a Sohn adapter on S1, but not S2, which solves the quality (but not quantity,that's why I still recommend premix) issue.
S2:
Pro: Has higher oil pressure!
Pro: 3 injectors per rotor, more luburication.
Cons:Unable to run Sohn adapter. However, you may choose to use Idemitsu's rotary engine oil, which I belive (not supported by evidence) can solve the quality issue.
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