Got the code for the SSV stuck open P2070. I've went through all of what I've seen on the forums. Started off cleaning the SSV itself and the inside of the intake. Then replace the solenoid for the SSV. Yes, it was the correct solenoid (middle one out of the 3 that are there.) I checked all of the vacuum lines and electrical connectors. They are all good. Went ahead and replaced the SSV completely. It was the improved one too where it doesnt have as many holes and crevices in it to collect carbon. Had a new switch on it as well. Used a new gasket on the new SSV too. I've had someone get in the car turn it on and rev it. Watched it twist when the ignition turned on and also in the higher RPMs. Honestly have no clue where to go from here. Really need help.

 

So, what's the problem?

 

I need to get rid of the code to pass inspection.

 

You've cleared the code and it comes back? Sounds like you need to retrace your steps and make sure that you didn't make a mistake somewhere. Since you say that you've seen the valve actuate, it sounds like it's the impact switch or the wiring.

Have you tested the SSV impact switch with a meter? Have you drawn vacuum on the actuator to make sure it actually makes contact with the switch? Maybe the solenoid is DOA and allowing the engine to draw vacuum on the actuator. One of the cheap $15 solenoids I bought off of Amazon wouldn't hold vacuum, so it's possible.

 

I've cleared the code multiple times. After clearing, I'll start the car then turn it off. Then start it once more and then the CEL comes back on with the same code. I have 2 impact switches. One being the original and the other being the new one on the Mazda OEM SSV. Haven't tested them though. Will do that today. I bought a cheap solenoid as well and thought the same thing so I bought a Mazda one. I'm assuming it's the switch or bad wiring I just cant see.

 

Could be. If you have a Mityvac hand pump handy, connect it to the solenoid and test it.
SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) SOLENOID VALVE INSPECTION

 

Turns out it was the impact switch. Not because it was bad but because of the tab on the SSV wasnt coming up far enough to push the impact switch in to tell the car it was operating properly.

 

 

The actuator is included as part of the SSV itself. It's part number N3H520160F.
Your best bet might be to find an entire LIM from a junked RX-8 and cannibalize the parts from that.

 

I may have a used SSV in my toolbox. Send me a pm if youre interested it buying it

 

I have a 2004 rx8. Getting the code p2070 stuck open SSV valve. Before this I had control cct low (p0661, and p0076) changed my solenoids and solved that problem but this new p2070 is now popping up.. now I want to take out the VVS and clean the valve anyways, but I also want to clean everything I can with seafoam aswell. Now my question to you guys is does it matter how i do it? I will post a video on the other way guys do it and was hoping if you could tell me of that's really wrong or just as effective( being it is a LOT faster to do)... link here :

 

Just no to everything in that video. Carburetor?
Sucking up seafoam through the booster line like that is a fun way to hydrolock the engine. It will also accomplish next to nothing. The smoke is seafoam burning off, not carbon.

Clean the SSV the hard way, you'll get into all the nooks and crannies much better.
A member here did some boroscope before and afters with seafoam and distilled water, and they were roughly as effective (that is very little, but water is cheaper).




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Awesome thanks for the info!! I also heard the injectors on this model get clogged up and most of them blow because of that 2004-2009 I believe. So I ordered new injectors, new cables aswell. The coils and plugs were changed 2k ago. Because I did have a p0302 misfire code. After unhooking attery and resetting everything the only code I have is the p2070, so hoping cleaning the SSV will make it good as new. It boggs out around 7k when picking up speed fast. Sounds like that's all I need. Thanks for the info. Hey have you heard anything related to bad motor mounts that cause rough shifting into 2nd gear?? I'm dealing with that issue aswel..

 

Also no. I don't know where you're getting your info but injectors aren't typically a problem. Maybe they meant oil injectors? Good work on coils and plugs, that's what usually kills them.
Bogging down could be the SSV, or it could be the cat being clogged, which is a much more serious issue and will lead to a dead engine. Given the history of misfired codes, suggest you check it ASAP.

Motor mounts would be bad in any gear, if you're having trouble getting into 2nd, see if you need new trans oil (GL4 ONLY!) and if the clutch pedal is well adjusted.

Read rx8help.com for more general info, sounds like you're new to this and there's some baseline stuff about these cars documented there by one of our members.

 

I was talking to the rx7 specialties shop in Calgary, he told me 95% of the 1st generation rx8s that are blown come in with clogged injectors due to people not premixing the fuel. I have started premixing but just hoping they are okay, car has 140km on it, got a compression test last year witch passed. So just trying to keep her going as long as I can. Yea I just saw some guy on YouTube had that problem and ended up being his motor mounts that caused hard shifting to 2nd. I just did my oil, and tranny fluid (GL4 amsoil 2 days ago) maybe that will clear things up a bit in a week or two.. praying I don't need new syncros. Because I'm sure mazda has been putting gl5 in there for years.. okay I will do that thank you for all the info! Yes I am new to this group, owned a rx7 years back but just got my rx8 2 weeks ago. I appreciate all the help! Other groups just f##k you around with BS advice most the time witch is frustrating as a DIY guy.. I will check into my cat!!

 

Just to add. Will I see my ssv cycle if I get someone to start the car for me? Or does it need to Rev up to 3500rpm. Got my wife to start the car, didn't see it move at all. Installed new solenoids. BuT they were purge valve solenoids not EGR valve solenoids... they fit fine, they look identical. Is this my problem?? Or could it be the switch? I would expect it to not be the switch as I have not seen the valve move by itself. And I can move it by hand pretty easily. Thanks