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Springtime RX8 cleaning.

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Old 03-22-2021, 12:30 PM
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Springtime RX8 cleaning.

Heyo! Just wanted to do a writeup of some things I did/am doing to my car for this spring. And maybe get some help with a pretty bad snapped bolt.

I started it off with a detail after not cleaning it all winter, made sure to do a heavy wash on the underside to try and stop the rust for getting too bad. I forgot how beautiful these cars where when it had all that winter gunk on it.

I've got a big list of things to do to the car to restore it back to as close to pristine as possible, alot of it is paint work and dent popping but there's a fair few mechanical problems. I went to go tackle the stalling after highway driving problem, it would always hunt for idle and sometimes stall on the exit ramp. I got the car up on stands and went for the E-shaft sensor, to say it was filthy would be an understatement. I decide to pull it off to clean it thoroughly, and then for the first time in my 2 years working on cars. The bolt snapped, to say I was mad would be an understatement. I got the thing off and clean but to get it back on..... that's an issue. I went to go get an extraction bit but none where long enough to make it up there. I then tried to weld it to a bit to make it longer but when it spun it never stayed center. So I had to do what I swore I'd never do. JB Weld and zip-ties, truly my lowest moment.

Other than that I did the sway bar end link. That went smoothly, the new ones are a massive upgrade over those plastic pieces of crap. And a good ol fashion oil change.

Now if anyone has an idea how to get that bolt out I'd love to hear it. I hate myself for doing it but I needed to get the car driving again.

Cheers,
Old 03-22-2021, 05:37 PM
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Might have to drill it out unfortunately. You dont need to remove the sensor to clean it (though it does make it easier). I don't think I'd trust zip ties and JB weld, it gets really really hot in that engine bay. I'm pretty sure all that will melt and come loose.
Old 03-22-2021, 06:26 PM
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How many miles are on the car/engine?

Usually I'd say hunting idle would be a culprit of either a vacuum leak or low compression. Not sure of any vacuum leaks that could be solely caused by normal highway driving and then go away. Or is this more of an issue of 4500-9000 rpms sustained on the highway and then trying to idle at an off-ramp? I suppose if you are going into that higher rpm range that could help rule out it being the fuel pump, since you are not seeing the car bog down after ~6000rpm.

However this could point towards the more serious issue of low compression. As a rotary heats up it loses compression, meaning if you have a 120kmile engine and you are sitting on the highway at even 3000-4000rpm or higher for sustained periods of time you could be heat soaking the rotors. Combine that with old dented oil coolers and the rotors that hold the seals could be getting cooked.

How does the car start after it stalls? Fires right up?(maybe not compression) slow 15s start?(likely compression) needs 10mins to cool down?(most certainly compression)
Any hot starting issues during any other times?
Old 03-22-2021, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MincVinyl
How many miles are on the car/engine?

Usually I'd say hunting idle would be a culprit of either a vacuum leak or low compression. Not sure of any vacuum leaks that could be solely caused by normal highway driving and then go away. Or is this more of an issue of 4500-9000 rpms sustained on the highway and then trying to idle at an off-ramp? I suppose if you are going into that higher rpm range that could help rule out it being the fuel pump, since you are not seeing the car bog down after ~6000rpm.

However this could point towards the more serious issue of low compression. As a rotary heats up it loses compression, meaning if you have a 120kmile engine and you are sitting on the highway at even 3000-4000rpm or higher for sustained periods of time you could be heat soaking the rotors. Combine that with old dented oil coolers and the rotors that hold the seals could be getting cooked.

How does the car start after it stalls? Fires right up?(maybe not compression) slow 15s start?(likely compression) needs 10mins to cool down?(most certainly compression)
Any hot starting issues during any other times?
Hey. Definitely taking it into Mazda to get a compression test done soon, some small problems with startup. Nothing as bad as the 15sec startup you're describing but definitely a solid 4-5 second crank when it's hot. I went for the sensor because I was having misfires at high Rpm when I was really giving it to her. Seems a little better since the cleaning and doing the 20 brake stomp but the fuel pump is a good suggestion. All the vaccume lines have been replaced and secured except for the VFAD line, but that was butchered and capped off by the previous owner. Coils and plugs are 10k and 5k old respectively.

Gonna replace the fuel pump as preventative maintenance since I know they go bad pretty often. Also gonna look for a parts store that rents right angle drills to try and get that bastard of a bolt out. Car is at 97,000km so I'm hoping it's not a bum engine, should still have alot of life left in her. Don't know much about the first 80k but it's been premixed and maintained to a T since I got her. Any suggestions on a good fuel pump I'd love to hear it.

Cheers,

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