robertsean350

Hello,

I was reading threads where members have modified the stereo. One of the threads involved 2 members providing information for an ideal route to run the power wire for the amps. Cool I thought, but wasn't excited about moving my windshield washer box to drill a hole. While I was under the hood figuring out how to do this, I saw an alternative. I have no doubt these members know what they are doing. Many of the discussions they were involved required me to raise my level of understanding simply to follow along. I don't think I figured out something new, and am really looking to figure out why this other route was not considered. Based solely on the technical detail and complexity of their discussions, the answer is probably obvious to many, just not me.

On the driver's side, there is a spot covered by a white plastic grommet, about 3" X 1.5" just above and to the right of where several(3/4"r) wires pass through the firewall. Passing a power wire through this point should be simple and require no drilling. All I can think of that would present an issue is the interference a power wire will / could cause to electronics in the area. My remedial self thinks I can overcome this issue with proper insulation and some type of Faraday apparatus. Since I am not an electrical engineer and I think some of the members here are, please help me understand what I am missing and / or if this is a viable possibility;with the proper mods.

The second concern I am having is regarding my front strut bar. I replaced the coil overs and had to remove it during the process. The horseshoe bracket has two bolts welded onto it. During the reinstallation, one of them snapped. I drilled it out and reinstalled again. Another snapped. At this point I'm thinking I'm hulking out on these bolts and buy a new torque wrench. During the reinstallation, a 3rd snapped. I never got to the point where the nut stopped turning. There was resistance but not an amount that should have done this. Today I am taking it apart to repair again, and it did not snap. The 4th bolt wasn't even twisted. I placed the wrench on the nut, and it fell apart

Now, I am highly alarmed and concerned about what is happening. It is OEM and 14 years old. All 4 broke? I have got to be missing something here. In my frustration, my deductive skills tend to escape me. I am not trying to do anything special or unique. Esteemed members, my mind goes kerplunk on this issue, and I am requesting assistance on any and every possibility that could result in my situation. The removal and reinstall seemed pretty straight forward, and yet here I am perplexed as to what is causing 100% failure of the fasteners. Hard driving? Additional heat from new engine lacking proper cats? Stresses from the coil over replacement?- it should be noted that I have not had the alignment done due to needing some parts that will allow the alignment to be done.

Any troubleshooting /concept /theory offered is appreciated.

Thank you,

Please Advise

Robert

robertsean350

Update. I have noticed one of the brackets is bent. I am expecting them to be identical as viewed through a mirror. Working on correcting this with a bit of heat and pressure until replacement parts arrive. Still gotta work to feed the 8.

I ordered replacements last week, but need confidence in the equipment to fully enjoy ownership. Clearly, one bracket being bent will contribute to this. One bracket is not bent and also failed the same way.

robertsean350

Update:

NM the question on the power wire. I do see it has been extensively covered.

Apologies, I did search, more than once. It was of course the most recent search which led me to the thread. All those questions are answered, and some I had not even known to ask.

Replaced all bolts with grade 8 for the 8 on front strut bar. Still concerns me having them all break. Need to figure out what cause that and how to keep it from reoccurring.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What torque setting are you using on those bolts? They don't need that much.

robertsean350

My torque bar is broke ATM. The last one broke and I barley touched it. I figure 20-30 ft lb.

robertsean350

Update;

I believe,

The answer to this problem lies with a component I only knew as a skid plate. My last vehicle was a jeep Rubicon which had a very similar part in the same location. In the RX-8 it is classified as part of the suspension. I am referring to the flat metal 2.5SqFt+/- piece that sits under the engine/transmission. this is bolted to the frame /assembly in 7 places. Since I took possession it has never had more than 4 mounting points. My last oil change only 2, one of those failed on a trip from Austin to San Antonio. Thankfully I had tools with me and was able to complete the journey.

My Hypothesis:
Due to insufficient structural support on the lower assembly, excessive play /force was transferred to the top. resulting in the mounting bracket bolt failure I came to know as them snapping off.

Response
Picked up 7 Bolts and 2 brackets from Mazda today for reassembly.

I am interested in feedback. Most important to me is any information about what I did wrong or should have done differently or better.

Thanks

-Robert

robertsean350

thought I replied to this. Apologies. IDK. Every torque bar I have bought lately shows up non working. I dont hulk out on it or anything. I try to do about 25ftlbs. I use 7 inch ratchet wrench. Go until its tight and about 1/2 3/4 turn more.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What is the flat metal piece you're looking at? I can't think of what original equipment that could refer to. There is a plastic undertray, then the subframe aft of that. I assume you don't mean the subframe was only loosely attached What year is the car?

robertsean350

Just behind the plastic. Attaches to the subframe, underneath engine /transmission.

robertsean350

all holes are stripped. considering upsizing the bolt since the work is the same. grade 8 10mm w/fine thread instead of grade 8 8mm course thread. any reason not to make it stronger? being stronger=stiffer under load. I would like to be able to track it and use as DD.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Ah ok, so it's a series 2? That thing isn't structural, it's just a splash guard. It doesn't look like it would take much to bend it.

Are the tower bolts shearing off from side load or from overtorquing? Do you have a picture of the broken surface?

robertsean350

Update to the issues with the door not locking. 1) My car is going to be renamed Snowflake; Due to her HYPER SENSITIVITY. I spent a lot of time going over wires, making sure things were connected properly and fuses were in working order. No Joy to be had. What finally fixed the issue was cleansing the points and grounds. My $20 Volt- o - Meter registered 12.24V prior to the cleaning. 13.32 after. She is sensitive, but locks.

I have just replaced my suspension with Godspeed coil overs and track bars, 6 sets. I did the first self myself. My Apt complex got upset for my work in their parking lot, so I had to pay someone else. I don't blame them. I kept telling them no one was more angry than I, It should have taken no more than 2 hours and took a week. The bolt /camber plate /nut fused into a single piece and took a lot of cussing to get it out.

first drove away with the no alignment . 2nd time, I drove away with only Front Toe set as Mazda did not sent the proper camber bolt.

What a difference. It was very responsive going into a turn but the back end felt loose with a ton of oversteer. I actually thought something was wrong, pulled over and went over everything before driving. 3 hours later, I was convinced I would make it home. I was also surprised the difference the settings on the coil overs made. At first, I left them as they were, but ultimately moved them to the softest setting.This eliminated the looseness in the rear end; an outcome I was not expecting.

Now I can finally attach the aluminum plate. My tap and die set arrived, and I am ready to go. It should be noted that Mazda classifies this part as suspension.

IMO if it was just a splash guard it would have been cheaper and lighter to make it from plastic.

Good times,

Once again, I thank all those that came before me.

robertsean350

As a matter of fact I do, I still have the brackets. ill post em when I get a chance

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Alright. Yes, softening the rear reduces turnin and corner exit oversteer, you're making the suspension comply to the weight transfer rather than transfer it to wheel forces.

Track bars? There is no such thing on this car, what do you mean?

robertsean350

Apologies, didn't realize the vernacular would be different with varied vehicle types. That's what they are called on jeeps, Specifically in Arizona, Phoenix. Jeep only has upper /lower. Very easy by comparison. I am referring to the bars that connect the wheel>subframe /frame >@ Knuckle; AKA multi link suspension? Not actually sure what to call em now.



Defiantly didn't realize how much it would affect the handling. My wheels /rims are stock. Nothing fancy.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Ah ok. Suspension links in the rear, control arms in the front. Sounds like a lot of work, glad you're happy with the result.