Suggestions on first blown engine
#1
Suggestions on first blown engine
Hello forum,
I am new to the website and id appreciate all the help I can receive.
I bought a 2004 rx8 two years ago and the engine has finally blown (70k ish). I am assuming a rebuild is the best way to go, but I was wondering if I had 5000-6000 CDN$ to spend would it be better to Swap a new engine into it? if so, would rotary be the best choice or should I go for non rotary since it's my daily driver. I want too remain with the power or have a little more if possible but not pay anything more then 6500$ CDN.
I am up to all suggestions, please help!
PoorCollegeStudent taking the bus now .
thank you.
I am new to the website and id appreciate all the help I can receive.
I bought a 2004 rx8 two years ago and the engine has finally blown (70k ish). I am assuming a rebuild is the best way to go, but I was wondering if I had 5000-6000 CDN$ to spend would it be better to Swap a new engine into it? if so, would rotary be the best choice or should I go for non rotary since it's my daily driver. I want too remain with the power or have a little more if possible but not pay anything more then 6500$ CDN.
I am up to all suggestions, please help!
PoorCollegeStudent taking the bus now .
thank you.
#2
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
get a rebuilt RX8 engine.
yes, you can do a non rotary swap but it will put you well above the budget of a poor college student.
yes, you can do a non rotary swap but it will put you well above the budget of a poor college student.
#4
I live in Toronto, Ontario and I've taken it to Mazda because it started losing power at high RMP's but drives fine in third gear at 4000rpm. As soon I give the baby a bit of power it just stays at 7000rmp. The other day though I did manage to get it to hit 10,000 but smoke its just roaring out the exhaust.
I thought it might of been a clogged 'cat' but I took off the cat and blew it all out. The Mazda dealer told me it had low compression so I just assumed it was a leak in the seals causing oil to get through the car.
I thought it might of been a clogged 'cat' but I took off the cat and blew it all out. The Mazda dealer told me it had low compression so I just assumed it was a leak in the seals causing oil to get through the car.
#5
#6
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How did you get the engine to rev to 10k?
Post the compression numbers from the dealership.
If they actually did a compression test, they should have provided those numbers. If they didn't provide them, ask for them. If they don't have them anymore, request another compression test on their dime.
Post the compression numbers from the dealership.
If they actually did a compression test, they should have provided those numbers. If they didn't provide them, ask for them. If they don't have them anymore, request another compression test on their dime.
#7
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I live in Toronto, Ontario and I've taken it to Mazda because it started losing power at high RMP's but drives fine in third gear at 4000rpm. As soon I give the baby a bit of power it just stays at 7000rmp. The other day though I did manage to get it to hit 10,000 but smoke its just roaring out the exhaust.
I thought it might of been a clogged 'cat' but I took off the cat and blew it all out. The Mazda dealer told me it had low compression so I just assumed it was a leak in the seals causing oil to get through the car.
I thought it might of been a clogged 'cat' but I took off the cat and blew it all out. The Mazda dealer told me it had low compression so I just assumed it was a leak in the seals causing oil to get through the car.
Don't get me wrong, bad coils kill cats and engines in short order, but without compression numbers, the evidence so far is not conclusive.
If you do need a new engine, the best long term solution is to get a fresh rebuild from a specialist. There are a few in the US: Mazmart, Pineapple, Pettit, Rotary Resurrection. I think there is one in Toronto though, look up GTA Rotary club on facebook and ask around, and check Speed Academy videos on youtube. They're based in Ontario and have a series on rebuilding a rotary, perhaps they identify the shop they're at.
#8
Sorry for such a late reply, I had a lot of work to do! I went back to Mazda dealership and received all my test results back (compression). The compression numbers are Rotor 1- 7.7, 8.1, 7.9 and Rotor 2 - 6.0, 5.5, 5.4. I replayed the coils brand new when the smoke first started happening hoping that is what was wrong, but it was no help. It's really odd, it starts pretty much right away, but there is power loss around 7k when I push it, but if I drive normally there is no problem. although it smokes bad when I hit up too 7k, the smoke colour is a mix of light and dark grey. The reprint also states that the oil is leaking badly from throttle body and intake. They offered 5800$ CDN for replacement of engine with a brand new one.
Anymore recommendations before I buy a new engine?
Thanks.
Anymore recommendations before I buy a new engine?
Thanks.
#9
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Well they can't get you a brand new engine, so that is the price with a Mazda reman. Oil can't leak into the TB or intake, it can only get there by excessive crank case pressure or over filling the oil.
That engine is failing, so your option are a private rebuilder or a Mazda reman.
That engine is failing, so your option are a private rebuilder or a Mazda reman.
#11
Since you're in Toronto, before committing to Mazda's reman have a word with thewird:
Rotary Engine Tuning & Rebuild's | engine, engine parts | City of Toronto | Kijiji
He does rebuilds and I understand lots of people have been happy with his work.
Rotary Engine Tuning & Rebuild's | engine, engine parts | City of Toronto | Kijiji
He does rebuilds and I understand lots of people have been happy with his work.
#12
Crank no start after rebuild
Can anyone please help me? I miss driving her so much. Lol. I'm a avid and pretty skilled mechanic. I love rotories but this has been a pain. I rebuilt it with all new/barely used parts. All clearances and everything was done to the book. To the letter. And now it just cranks all day but no start. Figuring it was a grounding or injector connection problem I went through it again and everything seems perfect. It's getting air, fuel (sometimes too much LoL), compression, and spark but yet no start. So I tow started it and it sat there and idled perfectly. I could get out and let it idle on its own. So now I'm thinking it's not spinning fast enough to start, not enough current, but the battery is charged and passes the load test. Grounds seem to be solid. I'm dumbfounded. I did everything. Deflooding over and over, brake stomp, I know for a fact that the injector and spark plug wires are correct, etc. It can't be stuck in limp mode because the engine started before the rebuild (off of one rotor though 😉. This is not my first engine rebuild but it is my first rotary rebuild is there any simple mistakes first time rotary rebuilders make? I have done research online, in person, and over the phone, and I'm lost. I'm at a dead end. I don't want to sell it as it was once an amazing peice of driving machine. Thank you ahead of time!
#14
I do not have an upgraded starter however it's brand new. So are the spark plugs and coils. It's throwing a bright blue spark all four of them. I was thinking maybe the harmonic balancer was installed wrong. It's not backwards for sure and I'm pretty sure the stomp method would fix that mistake. And I don't have a Mazda compression tester. It what I was going to do was use a needle and take out the schrader valve and use my phone to record a slo mo of the results. I will do that today. I can say this though I promise you it has more compression than it ever has since I bought it. It's got 120,000 miles on the clock.
#15
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I do not have an upgraded starter however it's brand new. So are the spark plugs and coils. It's throwing a bright blue spark all four of them. I was thinking maybe the harmonic balancer was installed wrong. It's not backwards for sure and I'm pretty sure the stomp method would fix that mistake. And I don't have a Mazda compression tester. It what I was going to do was use a needle and take out the schrader valve and use my phone to record a slo mo of the results. I will do that today. I can say this though I promise you it has more compression than it ever has since I bought it. It's got 120,000 miles on the clock.
Are there any check engine codes? Once you tow start it, how does it run?
#16
Yeah I really feel like a jackass for doing that. I tried to post a new thread but the website said I didn't have permission until just now. That was weird sorry for being THAT guy. Lol but I couldn't get any codes at all for some reason. And when it gets towed it runs 100% perfectly.