Is there a DIY for Mazmart Oil Pressure Mode for S1
11-14-2013 | 09:56 PM
#2
Drop you oil pan, replace the regulator and install 3 washers.
Clean up the pan and the block, reapply RTV gasket and put the pan back on, done!
Should take 30-60 mins depending on how long your pan has been on
Clean up the pan and the block, reapply RTV gasket and put the pan back on, done!
Should take 30-60 mins depending on how long your pan has been on
11-14-2013 | 11:30 PM
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11-15-2013 | 06:56 AM
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From: Burls On
The new RTV alone requires an hour of set-up time before torquing the pan bolts...
Removing the pan without the right tools and without a lift is a struggle... A 90 degree tool to cut through the RTV would help a lot with pan removal. You don't want to gouge the metal.
The regulators require large and deep sockets which you may not have so check tool requirement first.
A good oil pan clean-up requires removing the baffles so allow a bit of time for that.
For a careful amateur like me it was more like 6 hours... except for an error which required a re-do... Almost a whole night under the car...
Really worth it to see the high pressure on the gauge.
11-15-2013 | 07:00 AM
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11-15-2013 | 01:23 PM
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Highly optimistic time estimate.
The new RTV alone requires an hour of set-up time before torquing the pan bolts...
Removing the pan without the right tools and without a lift is a struggle... A 90 degree tool to cut through the RTV would help a lot with pan removal. You don't want to gouge the metal.
The regulators require large and deep sockets which you may not have so check tool requirement first.
A good oil pan clean-up requires removing the baffles so allow a bit of time for that.
For a careful amateur like me it was more like 6 hours... except for an error which required a re-do... Almost a whole night under the car...
Really worth it to see the high pressure on the gauge.
The new RTV alone requires an hour of set-up time before torquing the pan bolts...
Removing the pan without the right tools and without a lift is a struggle... A 90 degree tool to cut through the RTV would help a lot with pan removal. You don't want to gouge the metal.
The regulators require large and deep sockets which you may not have so check tool requirement first.
A good oil pan clean-up requires removing the baffles so allow a bit of time for that.
For a careful amateur like me it was more like 6 hours... except for an error which required a re-do... Almost a whole night under the car...
Really worth it to see the high pressure on the gauge.
When you say to let it set 1 hour before torqueing it down, does that mean pre-install in and apply light torque to the pan bolts or do I just apply the RTV to the pan, let it sit one hour before even putting it on the engine?
11-15-2013 | 07:01 PM
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Which one should I do, install pan to engine "loosely" with just hand torque wait an hour then torque or don't even put it up to the engine and let the RTV set for on the pan for 1 hour first?
11-15-2013 | 07:31 PM
#10
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From: Burls On
Funny you mention it. I do have a lift in my garage. I did buy the new Mazda RTV because I am updated my 04 oil pan with the new sensor.
When you say to let it set 1 hour before torqueing it down, does that mean pre-install in and apply light torque to the pan bolts or do I just apply the RTV to the pan, let it sit one hour before even putting it on the engine?
When you say to let it set 1 hour before torqueing it down, does that mean pre-install in and apply light torque to the pan bolts or do I just apply the RTV to the pan, let it sit one hour before even putting it on the engine?
You apply light pressure till the RTV spreads a bit, wait an hour, then torque to spec.
11-15-2013 | 07:53 PM
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I've ordered the pan and RTV but haven't received it yet so I'm just preparing. If all that is written on the tube of stuff that is great. Thanks for the clarification. I want to do it right and only one time.
11-22-2013 | 10:06 AM
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Okay, I dropped the oil pan and I am ready to install the Mazmart pressure regulator and changeover to S2 filters in my S1 RX8. I have searched but could not find the torque specs for the pressure regulator.
Does anyone have the these torque specs so that I can properly install the regulator?
Does anyone have the these torque specs so that I can properly install the regulator?
04-01-2016 | 12:29 PM
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Not to resurrect an old thread or anything. I've got a stack of m5 washers I can use (1/8" right?), is this any different from the Mazda/aftermarket parts?
04-09-2016 | 11:47 AM
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04-20-2016 | 01:13 PM
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thats the point i made earier.
during normal every day driving with heavier wgt oil at 4K there is a good chance that we are in the range of the rear bypass limit. Thereby not filtering all the oil.
get a magnet on the filter may help some as Ash pointed out and I also have done.
The mod on the rear bypass and front bypass is not hard to do if you have been working on cars some. Make SURE you keep things as clean as you possibily can. Drop the pan, remove the rear and front regulators/bypass, do the crush with a hydrolic press, or have a machine shop do it--or buy a new one (93-95) from MazdaTrix for $31, then add 2 shims --total 1/8 inch to the front bypass, then use the 09 filter(for its own increased bypass pressure) or something like a Fram hp2-6. Hell--even a Pure One Purolater has a filter that will fit and is twice as big as the oem although I am not sure of its bypass pressure.
Reinstall (careful with the pan bolts) CLEANLY and refill with a diesel oil or whatever you want to do and thats it.
Should take maybe 2 hrs?
OD
during normal every day driving with heavier wgt oil at 4K there is a good chance that we are in the range of the rear bypass limit. Thereby not filtering all the oil.
get a magnet on the filter may help some as Ash pointed out and I also have done.
The mod on the rear bypass and front bypass is not hard to do if you have been working on cars some. Make SURE you keep things as clean as you possibily can. Drop the pan, remove the rear and front regulators/bypass, do the crush with a hydrolic press, or have a machine shop do it--or buy a new one (93-95) from MazdaTrix for $31, then add 2 shims --total 1/8 inch to the front bypass, then use the 09 filter(for its own increased bypass pressure) or something like a Fram hp2-6. Hell--even a Pure One Purolater has a filter that will fit and is twice as big as the oem although I am not sure of its bypass pressure.
Reinstall (careful with the pan bolts) CLEANLY and refill with a diesel oil or whatever you want to do and thats it.
Should take maybe 2 hrs?
OD
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