ecookman

Hey, just got my car back from the stealership after they reset my immobilizer system and cut me 2 new master keys and diagnosed a airbag code and power steering loss issue I was having. Now i can go and fix those... (700 bucks later >_> )

1 - I noticed on the way home that my oil pressure gauge does NOT MOVE AT ALL. It also fails the self test by just sticking in the same spot... Ideas?


2 - Transmission is very stiff to shift when the revs are high, Up shifting after 6K RPM is nearly impossible and the gears do grind a bit . DOWN shifting above 5K rpm is also impossible. The transmission will grind until the revs hit around 4K then it will clunk in. Sounds like the synchros are gone in the car. Ideas? (only happens in gears 2, 3, 4 - cant go fast enough to try 6 lol)

3 - Airbag code B1997, has anyone found a fix for this, I already cleaned and reconnected the couplers under the seat. Next is tearing the passenger side apart to find the grounds.


Any help would be great thanks!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

if it is all gears it could be your clutch or the clutch bracket..so you might want to check those

Has the car been in an accident? Airbag might not be there? Stock Seats?

Oil gauge is an idiot light that thinks it is a gauge.......it won't move...so don't worry about it

ecookman

Checked bracket and clutch adjustment, seems to be fine.
has been in a minor curb hit. Just scraped the underside a bit. Never thought to check if the airbag was there DOH! but the seats are stock. The light only came on the second time I drove the car, so I am hoping it is JUST the harness not a missing bag >_>

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Oil Gauge:
Dummy gauge only has 3 positions: full left when the car is off, somewhere in the general middle if the car is on, and full right under very specific circumstances that have no reference to oil pressure (like it sweeps right during an ECU reset). It won't move otherwise.

Transmission:
Check the clutch pedal assembly. No breaks or cracks. Should have zero lateral movement (Side to side) at any point in the motion, get down there and move it by hand to get a better feel.
If not that, bleed the clutch line
If not that, pull the starter and look for clutch debris in the bellhousing that would indicate a burst clutch
If not that, check motor mounts for collapse (should also have a very shaky car at idle if so)
If not that, replace the clutch master and clutch slave cylinder, as hydraulics may have failed
If not that, you are going to need to pull the transmission. Either to replace the pilot and/or release bearing, or to install another transmission.

Airbag:
Should just be a connector problem. Try shutting the car off, pulling the negative battery cable, then disconnecting and cleaning the connector, then reconnecting the battery. I vaguely remember dealing with a light that wouldn't go away when I disconnected the airbag connector once. I did something with a sequence that involved pulling the battery connection for a while under and assumption that I was trying to get the ECU to forget that it was ever disconnected, and the code never came back.

ecookman

- shes all good

- Will do tomorrow

-When I replaced the starter the old one was covered in black particles, almost looked like carbon dust.

-Shaky idle.... yep got that... if i had to compare it to something, at times its like drying a bunch of towels in a dryer.... after 1500 rpm its smooth though. I'll inspect that asap.

JOY Do you know of an adjustment spec? it looks like the transmission actually have been rebuilt judging by the red gasket maker around the mating surfaces. The pedal may be adjusted properly but the linkage may not be.

Which connector are you referring to?

ecookman

Needed to run a few errands earlier today. Took the 8 for a drive and figured I'd fiddle with shifting. Reverse is a little stiff to shift into at a rest. All of the gears except fifth grind a bit when up shifting around 8K-10K second and fourth are the worst offenders (especially second) - all gears grind on a downshift that is above 5K-6K BUT if I revmatch it is almost non existent and if I over match it is buttery smooth. Over match as in if I'm at 4K in fourth, if shifting into third was to move the revs up to 5.5K, it will grind a bit going straight from gear to gear, but if I blip the throttle to 7K it slides right in.

But if I drive like I'm 95 and keep the revs under 3.5k/4k - everything is smooth except for going into reverse.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Red gasket is normal. Sounds like motor mounts and badly need a clutch line bleed. don't jump off the deep end until you rule out the easy stuff.



The airbag connector under the seat. Might be 2, not 1, I don't recall.

ecookman

Alrighty, I'll try to find the ground connections and clean those too. Got an e-test tomorrow, after that I'll start working on it and report back. Thanks for the help so far!

ecookman

Inspected the mounts, they look OK, not too bad, but when the AC is on the idle is pretty rough. I noticed the car likes idling around 600 RPM, and will slowly float around 600-900 - that normal? (I'm also running RX7 plugs)

Haven't gotten around to bleed the clutch line yet, my buddy that lets me use his shop has been busy every weekend and our work schedules haven't met up for a while... and i suck at bleeding. I generally make a huge mess for no reason. Tranny is still giving me issues, changed the fluid though... and getting really good at rev matching, I hardly grind lol. The bell housing isn't caked with clutch bits, just looks like normal wear and tear, also checked for clutch slippage, none at all.

That B1997 code though for the airbags... that's getting annoying, I'm going to hopefully going to do some continuity testing on the harness tonight (well tomorrow morning at 3 am lol). I can't seem to find the issue... but noticed I have 2 cut wires on the harness!? see video. Definitely going to beat this problem to death as the stealership quoted me $1960 to fix the problem -.-

Pardon the horrible lighting, Yay working nights. Its great not seeing sunlight.