tacryer

First, let me apologize if this has already been addressed. I've spent HOURS searching through the threads and I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.
I recently bought a 6spd manual 06 RX-8 with 114330 miles on it currently. It was driving just fine for about 3 weeks (premixing) with no problems until I was on the freeway at cruising speed when it shut off, then wouldn't restart, and the check engine light came on. I towed it to autozone who read the codes and all I got was that it was misfiring. I didn't know the last time any maintenance was done, and was already planning on changing spark, wires, coils and oil. This is now done. I also changed the fuel pump. During the tow, the radiator was damaged and had to replace that, now the cel for the radiator is on. After replacing the fuel pump, and the radiator I was able to get the car started after doing the deflood procedure, but it sounded clogged. I also had the codes read again, and I got P0171, P2195, and P2004. I also looked underneath the car after letting it warm up and I noticed a glow around my 02 sensor. Today I installed a new downpipe (cat delete, I know I'll get codes for that) and both the upper and lower 02 sensors and got it started again. For the most part, the idle was steady as it warmed up, though every now and again it dips, then surges. I took it around the block, and it seems like it has NO power. I haven't had any time to get the codes ran again, but what I DON'T know is how do I address the P2004 code? The other threads I've seen only talked about bringing it to a dealer and having them fix it (after the guy replaced his engine.

I know I still need to do a compression test - I bought it with the understanding that the engine would need to be replaced sooner or later, and I'm ok with that. I just want to be able to drive it until then. What else do I need to do? What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

CaymanRotary

P2004 is a code for the APV. Its a good idea to "race" the engine and get some high RPMs to cycle the valves. Sometimes doing this alone will clear the code. I would definitely recommend the compression test as it could already be time to replace the engine. You did mention you were fine with replacing the engine but I hope you didn't pay too much for that car considering the amount of work you've needed to do thus far...

Conduct

When you first test drove the car, did it have any difficulties starting at all? Or after warm take longer/have a harder start? A glowing cat, damaged radiator, and an engine that died mid cruise could be a lot of things. Also it's odd that the radiator got damaged during the tow, it didn't fail first and cause the other failures?

I don't mean this as criticism, just as my 2 cents, but deleting the cat before solving the main problem is adding variables imo.

I'm no expert but from what I've read about low power engines that still run, it could be that because of the CEL it's running in what folks call limp mode, so that might not be a true symptom.

This thread has the same 2 codes, having to do with the fuel system running lean, possible causes might line up with yours, but I feel that more detailed descriptions will be needed for people to help you here.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...m-lean-229663/

tacryer

@CaymanRotary I didn't "race" the engine to clear the codes, I was nervous driving it just around the block! I can try that. I paid around 4k, which I think is WAY to high now with all this work. The only thing I knew I would have to address right away were the struts and tires being bad. Can't even replace those yet because the lug key is missing and I have to take it in to my tire guy and they'll remove it for me. Ughk!
@Conduct I did at least know about the cold and warm starts, and when I test drove it, there were no issues with startup either cold or hot. (This was really the ONLY thing I knew to check ahead of time). When I towed it, I'm the one who broke the radiator. There were no issues with the radiator beforehand. From what I've read (and running into another RX8 owner briefly) I have to replace the coolant reservoir, correct?
I also forgot to include that I cleaned the MAF being very careful not to strip the screws that hold it in place (I read about that) I'll check that thread out right now and see if it helps.

Thanks!

Conduct

Most people replace the reservoir because its plastic and prone to failure, but its not required. What I read a lot is that when working on the reservoir they accidentally break a tube on the radiator because its plastic. If you don't have one yet, I recommend getting an odb2 reader and run it with some logs going to help you collect data on temps, rpms, and stuff while its running. It'll also let you pull codes any time, clear them to retest and stuff too, I was going to suggest resetting the ecu and stuff before retesting to see if the codes are still there but I'd rather the other experts chime in before you do that.

JoeBlow

The misfire is probably what shut the car down.That's happened to me. The unburned fuel sometimes causes the O2 sensors to read rich. Misfire is often a bad coil or one that is going bad. Were you accelerating when it happened? Check for spark and when you get that sorted then reset the ECU and the KAM part of it, which resets your fuel trims. it can sometimes take 3-4 drive cycles to relearn and start running smooth again.

CaymanRotary

those locking lugs can be taken off with a hammer and a socket slightly smaller than the size of the locking lug. You hammer it on and use a breaker bar to torque it off. $4k is too much if its not in good shape especially knowing it needed at minimum struts and tires. Too late to go back but hoping going forward things are better. If you are lucky, the engine will pass the compression test and can diagnose further issues. Good luck.

tacryer

@conduct I've been toying with the idea of getting a reader, seems like it might be worth the money for this car. Also, having the CEL for the radiator isn't going to cause any issues, will it?
@joeblow I think I actually WAS accelerating when it shut down on me. After I replaced all the standard 30k maintenance I had a friend come clear the codes and run the codes again and these three popped up. I did notice that when I was starting it yesterday it was still struggling to start and the the check engine flashed at me indicating misfire, but then it stayed solid after that, even after taking it around the block. I don't know if that means it was only misfiring when I was
starting it or not..?
@caymanrotary I did buy the emergency lug remover, but it didn't help. I don't have a pneumatic torque wrench, I'll have to try a smaller socket and pounding it on. Didn't even think of that! 4k is WAY to much in hindsight. At the time it seemed like a good deal. All the other running 8's were going for well over 5k and I was able to talk the dealer down to 4k out the door, bc of the known issues (at the time). I usually have really good luck buying cars, but my luck ran out on this one. But again, I'm learning a hell of a lot, and before I knew pretty much nothing about engines, let alone a rotary.

CaymanRotary

The engine and everything may yet still be ok. Sometimes it sounds like the engine is going but its something else causing it to run poorly. Just do the compression test so at least you know where you stand. Would really suck to have to replace the engine. Looking at many thousands in parts and many hours of labor if this is the case. Once you get it working right though the drive is sublime.

tacryer

I agree! It was amazing the first few weeks being able to drive it! I can't wait to be able to get in her and drive her again. I'll race the engine, and recheck the codes in the next day or two when I get some time.

Thanks for all the help! I'll update on how she does. I did see some good threads about doing the compression test, so I'll do that as well.

JoeBlow

Most dealerships have at least a 30 day warrantee on used cars(if they don't they shouldn't be in business). I'd lean on them and try and recoup some of your expenses.

tacryer

@joeblow Nope. They don't have one, it was as is no warranty. Plus I bought it about 2 months ago. Wasn't really happy with them either. I know they won't help.

CaymanRotary

Definitely need to be more careful next time you buy a used car. Sometimes it is better to walk away than to get stuck with a car that is going to cause you a lot of problems. Always have a mechanic or someone knowledgeable that you trust to look over the car before purchase.
Especially if it is being bought "as is" because this particular car is a risky investment. Some of them are great but lots of them are lemons.

tacryer

You aren't kidding! I didn't know a whole lot about this car before even making this purchase. Won't do that again!

tacryer

UPDATE: I tried to start it last night, and it took about 45 min and a lot of backfiring, but it started. I tried to take it around the block again and it still seemed so powerless. I got it to rev up to 6.5/7k rpms, but it was so slow and seemed so hard to get going after stopping at stop signs. I drove it for maybe 20 min on a road close by me where I could try and get it to the higher ranges. When I flipped around one of the times, it sputtered and died. After trying to start it for another 30 min I gave up. This morning I went and got it started again after another 45 min, and same thing: No power. Not even in the upper rev ranges. I'm getting the misfire flash only when I'm trying to start it though. I haven't been able to get a reader on it either. Not sure what's going on, but feeling super frustrated. After I got limped it home and got it parked I turned it off, then tried to start it again. Nothing.

CaymanRotary

Really shouldn't be running it too much in this condition. There is definitely a problem but we don't know exactly what it is yet. The main thing will be to test compression but you need the engine to be warm to do that. Does the starter sound good or is it labored? With all of the things you've done the engine should be starting and running. Its a really bad idea to throw parts at this car hoping it will fix. You want to diagnose the issues first through testing and then replacing parts once the issue is found.

tacryer

The starter sounds good, not labored. At times it feels like it wants to turn over but then doesn't. I guess the next thing on my list will be to do the compression test. Thanks again. I've seen a few videos on youtube of how to do it, anyone have any tried and true methods for this? Can't really afford to tow it to mazda, or to buy the rotary specific. Seems like you can do it with the standard and then convert. Is this accurate?

CaymanRotary

Its more complicated than simply hooking a regular compression tester up. The best guide I've ever seen on it was from Driven by Madness on YouTube. Its doable, however, while the results won't be 100% accurate, they'll at least be close. Far more ideal to use a rotary tester but if its all you got at least it will give you an idea of where the engine is at.

tacryer

Awesome!! That's the one I saw. I'll do this. At least it will give me a good idea on a direction to go. I love this guys channel. Nearly everything I've done I've watched his videos to do it. Thanks for the help!

JoeBlow

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...memory-169443/
One or possibly all your codes are related to the fuel trims. Have you done this?

tacryer

Yes, I did this already. I need to have the codes read again, but now I'm especially worried about driving it. I had a buddy come and run the codes last time. As soon as he gets some free time, he'll come and read them again and see what codes I'm throwing now.