Hello i am new to RX-8 club and was wondering if i can get some help or rebuilding my RX8. So far the engine is running fine and has no issues. Yet its at 141,000 KM so it may blow soon. I just want to be prepared to rebuild it. My question is ware do i start on rebuilding it? How do i take the engine out? What parts do i order? Any other information for me to read on. Im sorry if i post in the wrong forum. I just got my rx8 for 2,500$ last weekend. I have yet todo a compression test. Also is there a way to see if the engine has been re built before? Thanks

 

Start by going to these two threads and reading everything in full multiple times. They will each answer about 90% of questions you may have regarding anything RX8.

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...w-pics-178937/

Regarding the rebuild in particular, I wouldn't worry about it right now if the engine is running fine. Read all you can ahead of time, save some money, and when the time comes you will be prepared. Performing a rebuild yourself can be done, but is generally frowned upon. It requires very tight tolerances and special skills, and most engines that are rebuilt by first time builders dont last too long. The below thread is a list of rotary specific engine builders:

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...ilders-265177/

Now get reading, you have much to learn - but your in the right place!

 

First things first: get a compression check. Don't think about anything else until you know how healthy (or not) your engine is. You're just stressing yourself out worrying about it without data. If you're anywhere near Chicago (and I doubt it given your use of scientific measurement units), I can help you with this.

Some rebuilders will put tags on the engine. A Mazda remanufactured engine will have a blue tag on the top of the front cover. My engine's rebuilder put a temperature sensitive tag between the leading and trailing spark plugs.

Your engine is likely below what Mazda consider to be "failing" compression but is asymptomatic. This isn't uncommon. Rennys that don't fail catastrophically just sort of slow down gradually until they start showing symptoms.

Keep in mind that a well-used engine like yours may not be the best candidate for rebuilding. A reputable rebuilder may recommend new housings, rotors, irons, and such with a total parts cost well in excess of US$3000 (before labor). If you balk at this, they may say that they can get away with re-using some of your old parts and get the total rebuild price down below US$3000 (labor included).

You should understand the significant difference between these two options. The expensive route will give you close to original factory performance. Heck, depending on how meticulous your rebuilder is, it may be better than factory (but don't count on this).

The cheaper route will give you an engine that runs but you will be down on power. It may or may not be technically "passing" by Mazda's standards but it will run. Think twice about this because you already have this. While you may not be making full power, your engine is running fine. Rebuilding at this level is spending money for very little. I strongly recommend you read this from Kevin at Rotary Resurrection.

The decision to rebuild your own engine is not one you should take lightly. Rebuilding a rotary isn't like rebuilding a piston engine. Additionally, rebuilding a Renny is not exactly the same as rebuilding previous rotaries. I don't know how much evidence there is for this but many first-time rebuilders end up redoing it in a few thousand miles. The parts for a bare minimum rebuild run $1000-$1500. I recommend not cheaping out here. Measure everything. Then measure it again. Done that? Okay, measure a third time. Use Mazda OEM apex and side seals/springs.

There is a fourth option and that is a Mazda remanufactured engine. In the US they can be found for about $3000 for a 6-port/6MT car. About $1000 more for 6AT cars. According to Mazmart, these have enough new parts to be worth the price in parts alone. The catch is that you have to send your old engine back or pay a $1000 core fee.

A fifth option is to go with a rebuilder that starts with a Mazda remanufactured engine and upgrades from there.

 

Hard to say without a compression test. While mileage is a factor, remember that old ignition coils are a known weak point on our cars. Get the newest OEM revision C coils, or BHR coils(a tune that changes dwell setting is recommended if you go with BHR).

Wait, I thought 6AT uses the same engine as 6MT. Are you talking about the early 4AT w/ 4-port engines?

 

Possibly.