rxsk8

New to this forum.
I've had my 8 for about, 8 months now. I know a good amount about it and how it all works, but this one problem i'm having has really got me stumped.

First off, i was having a really annoying starting problem. I would have to hold the key in the start position for a good 4 full (mississippi) seconds before it would fire up.
I fixed this issue by taking out the new coil packs i bought last month and putting the old ones i replaced them for. (thank go i didnt throw out the old ones)
Now it starts up fine.

( so you all know i have brand new spark plugs and wires too (ngk) )

ALSO, my cat is gutted, thanks to previous owner. I know, cause I checked it out last night.

But now, once it fires up, the rpms drop to like 500 for like 15 seconds, bogging down everything almost stalling the car. The lights in the car dim when this happens, before the cpu gives it gas up to 2k rpms to level it out.

I also noticed, after its warmed up, ill rev the engine up to 6000 and the engine wont go any faster unless i really put the peddle down, and even then i notice a small, what almost seems like a misfire or a hiccup, as it passed by 6000 rpms

I've been reading through so many forums for days now and havent found anything. So now im hear posting my issure hoping one of you gurus can point me in the right direction.

I do not have any warranties, so the dealership is out of the question.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Do you mind posting where you got the coil packs from? Maybe some pics of the coils?

The general symptoms you are reporting fit with a few different problems. A proper ignition replacement (coils, plugs, and wires) should have improved things, even if it didn't eliminate the problem. I'd guess at ignition failure or a dirty ESS.

If correcting those doesn't produce a solid result, then you probably have 2 or more problems at the same time from this list:

- Low compression could cause everything except the high RPM hesitation
- A dirty MAF could cause everything except the trouble starting.
- A vacuum leak could cause everything except the trouble starting.
- An O2 sensor failure could cause everything except the trouble starting.
- A starter failure could cause the trouble starting, but nothing else.

rxsk8

New to this forum.
I've had my 8 for about, 8 months now. I know a good amount about it and how it all works, but this one problem i'm having has really got me stumped.

First off, i was having a really annoying starting problem. I would have to hold the key in the start position for a good 4 full (mississippi) seconds before it would fire up.
I fixed this issue by taking out the new coil packs i bought last month and putting the old ones i replaced them for. (thank go i didnt throw out the old ones)
Now it starts up fine.

( so you all know i have brand new spark plugs and wires too (ngk) )

ALSO, my cat is gutted, thanks to previous owner. I know, cause I checked it out last night.

But now, once it fires up, the rpms drop to like 500 for like 15 seconds, bogging down everything almost stalling the car. The lights in the car dim when this happens, before the cpu gives it gas up to 2k rpms to level it out.

I also noticed, after its warmed up, ill rev the engine up to 6000 and the engine wont go any faster unless i really put the peddle down, and even then i notice a small, what almost seems like a misfire or a hiccup, as it passed by 6000 rpms

I've been reading through so many forums for days now and havent found anything. So now im hear posting my issure hoping one of you gurus can point me in the right direction.

I do not have any warranties, so the dealership is out of the question.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Threads merged, please do not post the same thing repeatedly

rxsk8

UF501 04 09 Mazda RX 8 RX8 Multispark Blaster Epoxy Ignition Coil Set of 4 IC231 | eBay

Motorking Coilpacks ^^ those are the ones i bought.
they worked very well once the car was running, but they just made it so hard for the car to start

The stock ones start the car like it ain't a thang.

what is ESS?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Uh.... yeah, I previously suspected that Motor King coils couldn't be trusted, and I think you just proved that for us. Please don't buy maintenance parts from ebay, sellers typically don't know what they are selling, which may be inappropriate or counterfeit.

You have a number of options for coils:
- The cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.

- The best upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)

- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $220, just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wire.) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.

- The Most Expensive Option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.

- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time.




ESS = E-shaft sensor. It is an electromagnet near the front main pulley that detects the angle of the e-shaft (same as a crankshaft position sensor), and because it's a magnet, it attracts metal bits that can throw off the profile, disrupting fuel and spark delivery timing.

rxsk8

well my wires and plugs are for sure NGK cause i got them from autozone. So it looks like ill just have to get new coil packs.

I also will try cleaning the ESS, hoping that will help out a little.

Another question, what would happen if you over fill the oil?
I did this the other day i think trying to top it off cause it was low. pulled out the stick and it was well over the full mark.. oops.

I got this weird smoke coming from the back of the engine compartment last night which went away after the engine ran for a little. i was thinking maybe it was because of the over fill on the oil

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Make sure to reset the e-shaft profile after cleaning. Do a search for "20 brake stomp" for the reseting procedure.

Overfilling the oil dumps oil into the intake, which can cause stumbling and misfires when it is then sucked into the engine suddenly. It can also carbon up the intake valving, leading to intake valve sticking problems.

There shouldn't be any smoke from the engine bay from overfilling though, any smoke would be out the tailpipe. An oil spill could generate smoke.

spokanerxdude

Just bought some there $250 now but still a decent deal.

- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $220, just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wire.) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.