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Hi I have taken a wireloom out an rx8 to put in another car along with engine. Can anyone tell me where the black and white wire goes from the key Transponder? See photo. The engine won't crank. Is there away to delete the immobiliser.
The black/white wire goes to the Ignition relay through the 15A Engine fuse. It provides 12v to the coil with the key in the on and start position.
There's not an easy way to delete the immobilizer while retaining the stock ecu. See https://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/0...highlights.pdf Pages 437-443 for the S1 immobilizer description.
There might be a way to bypass it with tuning software like Versatune, but I don't know if it has that capability.
You may be able to bypass it with FORScan.
There's a way to do it by using an arduino to spoof the keyless control module handshake with the ecu, but that's a lot easier said than done.
For the engine to start using the stock ECU you need the keyless control module and key that is paired to your ECU, or pair a different KCM, and Key to your ECU using WDS or FORScan.
If you have the keyless control module and key that are paired to your ecu and it still won't crank there's a couple options for troubleshooting.
Check all the power and grounds in the harness.
If you have the gauge cluster you can get blink codes from the security warning light on the cluster that will help you narrow down the fault. See the service highlights link above for that.
If you don't have the gauge cluster, you can use a test light to probe the brown/yellow wire at pin 2J on the keyless control module. 2J is the output to the warning light on the gauge cluster so you can read the blink codes from the test light.
hi i got it turning over with a spark. the fuel pump dont seem to be working?
and what does a key reminder switch do?? the pink and black wire is cut i guess it goes to the key control box???
For the fuel pump:
There can be a couple causes for the pump not running.
Do you have the Fuel Pump Resistor plugged in? It's a finned silver box originally found in the engine bay near the Air Injection pump. The pump won't get power without it.
You can bypass it for testing by putting a jumper wire between the two terminals of the connector.
If you do have the resistor then check that it is between .304-.336 ohms with a multimeter. If it is open, or substantially higher resistance, replace or bypass it.
If the resistor checks out do the following.
Check if the pump turns on when jumping the check connector pins in the engine bay fuse box.
If it doesn't turn on, check the 20A fuel pump fuse, and 10A EGI Comp 1 fuse and make sure they are good.
Check the grounds for the fuel pump circuit.
Remove the Low Pressure Fuel Pump Relay and apply power across the coil terminals and listen for a click from the relay. Check for continuity across the load terminals when power is applied to the coil, if you don't have continuity replace the relay.
Check the terminals for the relay socket in the fuse box. You should have Key On 12v( comes from EGI Comp1 fuse) to white/red, and constant 12V(fuel pump fuse) to the red/green. Check for continuity between the blue/red on the relay socket and the blue/red at the fuel pump connector. If it fails any of the previous, check for disconnected grounds or broken/cut wires in the harness.
Blue/black will be grounded for a couple seconds when you turn the key on, and constant ground when the engine is cranking or running. If you don't get ground on this wire it's possible it's a broken/cut wire between the ecu and relay or an issue with the ecu
The key reminder switch detects if the key is in the ignition. I don't know for sure, but it likely is only used to trigger the key reminder warning buzzer if you leave the key in the ignition and open the door.
For the fuel pump:
There can be a couple causes for the pump not running.
Do you have the Fuel Pump Resistor plugged in? It's a finned silver box originally found in the engine bay near the Air Injection pump. The pump won't get power without it.
You can bypass it for testing by putting a jumper wire between the two terminals of the connector.
If you do have the resistor then check that it is between .304-.336 ohms with a multimeter. If it is open, or substantially higher resistance, replace or bypass it.
If the resistor checks out do the following.
Check if the pump turns on when jumping the check connector pins in the engine bay fuse box.
If it doesn't turn on, check the 20A fuel pump fuse, and 10A EGI Comp 1 fuse and make sure they are good.
Check the grounds for the fuel pump circuit.
Remove the Low Pressure Fuel Pump Relay and apply power across the coil terminals and listen for a click from the relay. Check for continuity across the load terminals when power is applied to the coil, if you don't have continuity replace the relay.
Check the terminals for the relay socket in the fuse box. You should have Key On 12v( comes from EGI Comp1 fuse) to white/red, and constant 12V(fuel pump fuse) to the red/green. Check for continuity between the blue/red on the relay socket and the blue/red at the fuel pump connector. If it fails any of the previous, check for disconnected grounds or broken/cut wires in the harness.
Blue/black will be grounded for a couple seconds when you turn the key on, and constant ground when the engine is cranking or running. If you don't get ground on this wire it's possible it's a broken/cut wire between the ecu and relay or an issue with the ecu
The key reminder switch detects if the key is in the ignition. I don't know for sure, but it likely is only used to trigger the key reminder warning buzzer if you leave the key in the ignition and open the door.
I plugged another fuel pump in and I could here it working. 1 more question do you know what the little box by throttle pedal is??? See photo as it Haa big green and white wire coming from the key control box 1A wire?? Thanks for all your help
The box on top is the brake light switch noise filter. It's used to provide a clean brake switch signal to the DSC module.
The box beneath it is a bit harder to identify. The wiring color codes match the trunk lid opener relay, but the wire size is way too big for that, and it's a long way from where it should which is near the interior fuse panel.
It's held on with Tesa tape which is not very common outside of european OEM so it's probably not factory.
Given the size of the wires It might be a dealer added option harness for something like a high current accessory, maybe a rear fog light.
Hi
had it turning over and sparkling yesterday. So today i was going to delete some of the fuses and relays. Removed the room and d look wires as I thought I don't need them. Don't know what I have done but not it won't turn over on key? . If I put the power prob on red and blue starter relay it turns over. If I turn key to start it I get power to the white and green on the starter relay. So I guess the immobiliser is working. On the engine 15 fues I have two black and white wires. One goes in to a 3 way black and white. The other side of fuse has 2 wires one I cut. Do know where that is meant to go. Don't think it's a bad earth as everything is bolted down.?? Any ideas