2.3 ecoboost
#27
I can’t imagine it would be easy to drive with the hp possible but if the Camaro v6 fits wonder if a 3.5 ecoboost would.
Lots more piping for the Turbos but if it would work would be a great way to go. Stock turbos and a tune get you close to 500whp and gobs of trq. Plus very reliable. My 15 truck has 480whp with downpipes meth and tuning and has been very reliable for the last 260,000 miles. That’s drag racing twice a year and it’s my work truck so towing trailers all over the US. Just a fun thing to think about how insane a 8 would be with that much power while keeping the weight relatively low
Lots more piping for the Turbos but if it would work would be a great way to go. Stock turbos and a tune get you close to 500whp and gobs of trq. Plus very reliable. My 15 truck has 480whp with downpipes meth and tuning and has been very reliable for the last 260,000 miles. That’s drag racing twice a year and it’s my work truck so towing trailers all over the US. Just a fun thing to think about how insane a 8 would be with that much power while keeping the weight relatively low
#28
I also have a spare set of turbos for a 3.5. They got replaced by a dealer for a low boost issues on a 3.5 that was a sensor that was $13.
Not my truck so I gladly took some turbos.
#29
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Not easily triggered just think that some people can be a holes for no reason. I’ve dug through many of these threads and didn’t see the answer. Yes lots of info about a lot of different things .but like anything. Else online as time progresses maybe someone came up with something new. And yes I’m am a noob to this car as I stated so I guess that’s bad on me. Just remember at one point everyone is new.
Imagine if when you first got yours and wanted to start some conversations for ideas and small talk and someone who was well versed I. It consistently talked to people like they were stupid. How welcome would you feel. Again Not a huge deal to me especially if you knew me but you seem to do this to a lot of members and we should want to grow the group not shrink it. Even dumb ***’s should feel welcome.
Imagine if when you first got yours and wanted to start some conversations for ideas and small talk and someone who was well versed I. It consistently talked to people like they were stupid. How welcome would you feel. Again Not a huge deal to me especially if you knew me but you seem to do this to a lot of members and we should want to grow the group not shrink it. Even dumb ***’s should feel welcome.
No, that’s a very dishonest response once all the facts are laid out in the open.
What I am is the guy who got a PM from somebody he never heard of before and went out of my way to put the time and effort into explaining all this to him. Only to then realize afterward that he duplicated that PM in starting this thread after responding to him with all openness and all welcoming. I get that in your mind me giving you those explanations and details along with telling you they were on the forum wasn’t any big deal to you. Because frankly, I get that from a lot of people I go way out of my way to help and it’s not really any surprise to me anymore.
Try to remember that you asked for and invited my input. Otherwise I probably wouldn’t have bothered. Because after 16 years being on here the general impression I get from a thread like this is of someone who wants to talk up things a lot and be the center of attention, but is likely to disappear and never be seen or heard from eventually. I might be wrong, but that’s the impression I have so far. If in your mind expressing my frustration in response to you ignoring the advice and information you requested and I kindly provided makes me fit the description above, then so be it. My response in kind is that perhaps you need some brighter lights in your bathroom to see more clearly when looking at yourself in the mirror every morning.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-09-2021 at 12:33 AM.
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badscorp (03-09-2021)
#30
Fair enough team. When putting it that way yes I probably read into it wrong and failed to see it from your side. Sorry about that. That’s the bad part of the forum hard to see how someone is really responding and can be seen a different way. I never thought about how you probably have seen this a lot and how it could be frustrating. I’m more the type that is very curios and ideas pop up and as usual only a few actually get the time when it’s all done.
My frustration where fueled partly by the same thing. When owning a focus rs I had an idea that was shut down by everyone else on the forum and told was dumb because it didn’t follow the same pattern of build as everyone else. Well in that case I did make it work and it works amazing and I’m super happy I invested the time and money to do it my way. So I was used to things being shot down super fast with broad strokes of it can’t be done because someone else told them it couldn’t.
So I apologize.
My frustration where fueled partly by the same thing. When owning a focus rs I had an idea that was shut down by everyone else on the forum and told was dumb because it didn’t follow the same pattern of build as everyone else. Well in that case I did make it work and it works amazing and I’m super happy I invested the time and money to do it my way. So I was used to things being shot down super fast with broad strokes of it can’t be done because someone else told them it couldn’t.
So I apologize.
#31
#33
I say go for it. I think you're going to have some challenges.
The high pressure fuel pump on the back of the cylinder head means you either have to put a hole in the firewall (and into the HVAC) or you move the engine forward. The four cylinder causes interference problems with the stock steering rack. I went with the NC Miata rack and an electrically-powered hydraulic pump and my oil pan and front pulley still barely clear the steering rack. Doing a non-Ecoboost MZR / Duratec helps you in this regard, you can slide the engine back because you don't have the DI pump to deal with. I also had to space the front anti-roll bar forward about 50mm.
You need to notch the windshield wiper cowl. Not a big deal. Firewall can stay stock which is nice. There are adapter plates made to bolt the RX-8 gearbox to the Duratec / MZR / Ecoboost, so you can run a stock trans (or an FD RX-7 trans like I did initially).
I have the 2.5L in mine with aftermarket forged internals, bigger cams and a EFR7163. It makes 400whp without even trying, plenty of headroom to go up if needed.
JV
The high pressure fuel pump on the back of the cylinder head means you either have to put a hole in the firewall (and into the HVAC) or you move the engine forward. The four cylinder causes interference problems with the stock steering rack. I went with the NC Miata rack and an electrically-powered hydraulic pump and my oil pan and front pulley still barely clear the steering rack. Doing a non-Ecoboost MZR / Duratec helps you in this regard, you can slide the engine back because you don't have the DI pump to deal with. I also had to space the front anti-roll bar forward about 50mm.
You need to notch the windshield wiper cowl. Not a big deal. Firewall can stay stock which is nice. There are adapter plates made to bolt the RX-8 gearbox to the Duratec / MZR / Ecoboost, so you can run a stock trans (or an FD RX-7 trans like I did initially).
I have the 2.5L in mine with aftermarket forged internals, bigger cams and a EFR7163. It makes 400whp without even trying, plenty of headroom to go up if needed.
JV
I seen your using the FD Rx7 trans.
Did u make or buy the adapter plate? What car model flywheel and clutch are you running ?
I have the 2.0 & 2.3 ECoboost with mustang mt82 trans but would rather make it easier and use the rotary trans.
#34
Using the rotary trans means adapting the block to bellhousing, then somehow finding an appropriate flywheel, friction plate, and pressure plate. And if you're trying to keep the stock trans in the stock location, your engine position has been decided for you. And if you're keeping the stock PPF/rear diff, you have very limited gear ratio options, most of which are optimized for a rotary's RPM/power band.
Using the MT-82 means the engine to trans connection is easy, you can use any factory-compatible flywheel/clutch kit. Adapting the RX master to the MT-82 slave is a simple AN hose and fitting. You'd have to delete the PPF and do a cross brace, and then you probably want to 8.8 swap it anyway, so then you just need a driveshaft.
Using the MT-82 means the engine to trans connection is easy, you can use any factory-compatible flywheel/clutch kit. Adapting the RX master to the MT-82 slave is a simple AN hose and fitting. You'd have to delete the PPF and do a cross brace, and then you probably want to 8.8 swap it anyway, so then you just need a driveshaft.
#35
Using the rotary trans means adapting the block to bellhousing, then somehow finding an appropriate flywheel, friction plate, and pressure plate. And if you're trying to keep the stock trans in the stock location, your engine position has been decided for you. And if you're keeping the stock PPF/rear diff, you have very limited gear ratio options, most of which are optimized for a rotary's RPM/power band.
Using the MT-82 means the engine to trans connection is easy, you can use any factory-compatible flywheel/clutch kit. Adapting the RX master to the MT-82 slave is a simple AN hose and fitting. You'd have to delete the PPF and do a cross brace, and then you probably want to 8.8 swap it anyway, so then you just need a driveshaft.
Using the MT-82 means the engine to trans connection is easy, you can use any factory-compatible flywheel/clutch kit. Adapting the RX master to the MT-82 slave is a simple AN hose and fitting. You'd have to delete the PPF and do a cross brace, and then you probably want to 8.8 swap it anyway, so then you just need a driveshaft.
Yea I was just trying to see what parts he used in his FD trans. Bc I have a mt82 and a FD and rx8 trans. The adapter is $175 and uses mx5 flywheel and clutch. And using Mazda trans means no driveshaft or mount changes on the trans and rear. I'm trying to do this as simple as possible the mt82 is a weird remote shifter and I don't see the trans being small enough to fit in the tunnel.
#36
What rear end ratio are you going to end up running?
The MT-82 fits fine in the tunnel - depending on your drivetrain height the rear section where the remote arm mounts get a little tall.
The MT-82 fits fine in the tunnel - depending on your drivetrain height the rear section where the remote arm mounts get a little tall.
#37
#38
The FD trans is a good fit because it puts the shifter very close to the stock location when mated to a Duratec. might be problematic with an EcoBoost unless you delete the HPFP and run port-injection.
The bellhousing is from Roger Carroll in Australia. It's a nice piece. Then the clutch is just built with Mazda splines on the clutch discs, and to the stackup height Roger specifies with his bellhousing. I actually still own the two clutch discs for an FD trans, if you go that route I can save you some money.
There is an adapter to use the RX-8 gearbox with the Duratec but the shifter is in the wrong location.
Regardless of what route you take, you'll need to remove or modify the PPF and you'll need a custom driveshaft. If you go with an FD gearbox I have an aluminum driveshaft that will work. Send me an e-mail if you want any of this stuff. johnvitamvas at gmail
JV
The bellhousing is from Roger Carroll in Australia. It's a nice piece. Then the clutch is just built with Mazda splines on the clutch discs, and to the stackup height Roger specifies with his bellhousing. I actually still own the two clutch discs for an FD trans, if you go that route I can save you some money.
There is an adapter to use the RX-8 gearbox with the Duratec but the shifter is in the wrong location.
Regardless of what route you take, you'll need to remove or modify the PPF and you'll need a custom driveshaft. If you go with an FD gearbox I have an aluminum driveshaft that will work. Send me an e-mail if you want any of this stuff. johnvitamvas at gmail
JV
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Laminar (12-06-2023)
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