What would they moderate? It is not like Hinson is here or has screwed over 8club in the past.

 

like a 40 month turbo kit wait? it was a joke, you can unclench you're sphincter now

 

Your*

 

*double entendre* or *grammar error*

you decide

 

I called again today cuz they havent posted anything in three weeks. Still finishing pricing, but they told me that they have finished their tach kit for the conversion. Includes a new ballast(?) and everything required to use the tachometer for the LS.

Said it should be just under $500, just the tach kit.

Sorry if some of you feel this thread should be dead... if the moderators feel I am posting useless info then they can do with it what they want. Either way, I will continue to update myself and others who care about this swap until A) someone has completed the kit. or B) I graduate and attempt it myself (MAY/JUNE).

 

I hope they dont lock/delete thread. Things do take time to develope.

 

I also called today. They did in fact use the factory power steering setup. They made adapters to mount it in a different location. This is included with the standard kit. They also offer front sway bar mounts, but they are an additional cost.

As always, they're working on pricing to get everything else updated (i.e. electronics). So right now, $2000+ for getting the engine in with headers.

 

I hope this ends up being good.
Using the factory power steering is a BIG plus. I do wonder about the details of what they have done.

 

How are the correcting the geometry with the stock rack being 5-6" forward?

 

anybody who does this mod probably doesn't care about that sort of thing

 

I'm doing it just trying to move the rack as little as possible I know its not goin to be perfect it's just a fun project
I'm using a miata rack because it's much smaller and I'm still going to be off on the geometry
Hope to correct it as much as possible by modifying the spindles

 

And, I would be the person. If this swap doesn't yield a car that handles as well as it accelerates, there isn't a single reason for doing it.

 

Generalize much?

 

no, I have seen many quality conversions of Miatas and RX7 platforms (as well as others) and in every case the handling *always* suffers. It doesn't show up at the track or open roads because of the straight line speed. Put them on an (open) autox course where the straight line speed is negated and they get pwnd every single time. The big bruiser V8 is a relatively easy and inexpensive choice compared to some of the better suited and more interesting other engine choices, but that's why everyone goes that route.

 

Choose the right tool for the job...

 

^ team... Would the weight of the v8 be comparable to the weight of adding a top mount turbo on the renesis. I also believe that our cars weight helps traction more than it ever would in a miata or an rx7

 

Nope. Turbos are pretty light and so is the associated pipework.

 

what you mean to say is turbos dont add much weight to your car when they arent installed

 

that's true for V8s too, this thread is a perfect example

 

hahaha

 

 

sry man couldnt resist.

 

Odd. I thought FTD was a good thing.

I've seen many people build cars who can't drive them on an auto-x "track" -- that doesn't mean the car isn't capable or that the hybrid (car and drivetrain) is a bad combination. Example, I wouldn't dream of putting an old school Chevrolet small block with it's cast iron block and possibly cast iron heads into an RX8 and expect it'd handle anything like the factory setup car. However, a compact all aluminum LSx (gen III or IV) motor is a different story.

I do know that when these swaps are done in Miatas most of the weight comes from the T56 transmission and the beefier read end (GM/Getrag or Ford). We all agree that extra weight is bad, but if you're going to add weight, low and center isn't a bad place...

And if adding weight is bad, why do people turbocharge? Supercharge? Nitrous? Neon? Subwoofers? In the end it's about enjoying YOUR car.
I don't agree with you here completely. All the associated hardware is close to 80-100 pounds for most common turbo kits


EDIT: When I finally get off my *** and sell my M3 I plan to build one of these.

 

You are talking out of your *** You don't have to agree, my whole Greddy kit boxed up was maybe 50lbs, if that.

 

1. No.
2. That's the smallest possible kit components available.
3. Also, no.

A GT35R itself weighs 20 pounds -- minimum. Some weigh 30+ pounds. Add the weight for a wastegate, FMIC, piping, BOV, downpipe and manifold (minus what factory stuff it replaces, of course) and you're closing in on the weight.

I'm not advocating that turbocharging is a bad option because of the weight at all. I'm just saying that if you're gonna argue that adding weight is bad do it across the board for all power adders/swaps/frivolous modifications.