So after thinking about various engines and options I decided to go a different route.
I looked at SR20's, 1J and 2J engines, even some LS engines. I almost settled on an Isuzu engine before my friend mentioned the VR6 which I completely forgot about.

So I got some money together and bought one! It had one owner and only 113k miles on it. Which I can believe after opening up the valve cover.
I got the engine, harness and ECU out of a 98 VW GTI VR6.
Now the fun begins, I need to get my hands on a trans and start working on bolting them together, then I can finally work on mounting it in the car.

Here's some pics!










Now, lets hear what you all have to say!

 

Good engine. Looks nice and clean up there. Much cleaner then the tar pit that was under my Isuzu valve covers.

Good luck with your build!

 

Thanks! I can't wait to get it going. I'm itching to finish it!
It'll be N/A at first in case anyone is wondering

 

Boost!

 

I found a video of an mk3 golf pushing 400whp with 12psi.
If the motor wasn't swapped that's the same engine I have

 

So why did you pick this engine in particular? What does it make in top running condition, 170HP at 6000RPM or something? I really hope this thread is a joke and not serious.

 

Using a transverse FWD motor in a longitudinal RWD platform, what could go wrong?

 

It's relatively cheap, they're easy to find, have a lot of aftermarket support and are solidly built engines.
Sure N/A it does MAYBE 175hp. but all I need to do to ready it for boost is space the head with a thicker head gasket and add some ARP head studs. That alone will make the engine last on 10-12psi and push nearer to 400hp.
The VR6 was designed as a diesel then changed last minute. As a result the internals are all forged and the engine is built pretty strongly.

The ultimate goal is to boost it for max fun, but that's down the line.


Another reason I picked the engine is it's unconventional. Anyone can take an SR20 or LS1 and plop it into another RWD car, but I like a challenge and the uniqueness of this build.

And I shouldn't run into many problems with emissions, at least not until I try modifying the engine

 

VR is definitely a neat design, but how are you going to attach that to the transmission? Don't they normally go in sideways?

Personally, I think rotaries are as unconventional as production cars get

 

I agree about the rotary engine, but Kicker made a good point the last time I was talking to him. If it wasn't for US emissions limiting just how much oil the engine can burn then maybe they'd last a bit longer and people could have more fun with em.

As for attaching the VR6. I need to relocate some of the coolant passages where the hose attaches and move the t-stat housing and sensor housing (there are 3 of em in the t-state housing)
I'll also move the ignition module and coil pack and see what else needs moving or modding.

Then it's a matter of getting an adapter plate to make this engine fit a bell housing that'll fit the transmission.

Here's an example of what one guy did to swap a VR6 into his 350z


He made that black plate to bolt to the block, then the bell housing of his 350z trans bolts to that plate and job done.
One interesting thing about this engine is the timing runs on the back side of the engine. That bump at the top right houses a jack shaft with a chain coming from the crank, and another chain going up to the cams.

 

^ That would explain why it didn't feel like there was much slack in the chain. It' a short chain.

 

Are you going to rebuild the engine or hope it runs well as is ?

 

Seeing as it looks pretty clean I'm likely going to run it as it, If it fires up and runs fine at first then I'll drive it for a while as I save some money.
But when it comes time for boost I do plan to tear it down, put all new bearings and seals and chains etc before going turbo.

 

Oki doki, does this engine come with forged pistons from factory or high silicon cast ? I'm not raggin on your selection, just curious as to the cost of rebuilding it properly. I would be inclined to do a comp test as well as a leak down test before you get started.

 

Yup all forged internals. VW guys are claiming 400+hp on head spacers and arp studs.
It was originally designed as a diesel so it has some beef to the block and head.

 

you may want to go boosted right of the gecko.

one of my good friends had a vr6 gti with some internal work done to it, and my stock 8 would leave him in the dust....up a hill..

I'm pretty sure the rx8 is heavier then the vr so that would only make it slower, Good luck op

 

oh **** here we go. in like flynt

 

It's much cheaper and less effort to run a Sohn adapter and get a Cobb to crank up your OMP rates rather than to swap your engine, not to mention it'll prob double the life of your Renesis.

 

So if your choosing vw motors. Why not the 2.0T tsi off a gti,tiguan,Jetta,and other little audi's

 

I'd love to, but funds are limited, my first priority is to get the car running and driving. Then I can start saving for a boost build as I get to enjoy the car.
The VR6 has some torque so I'm sure I can still have some track fun.

Well my Renesis was already done. Second engine in under 100k and it barely wanted to run. So Instead of rebuilding that or swapping another rotary I thought a unique swap is in order.

I didn't choose the VR6 because it's a VW engine, I chose it because it's a fairly compact V6 compared to longer I6's or wider V6's. They handle boost very well and have good aftermarket support.

Also, they sound pretty darn good IMO

 

They do sound good uncorked, I will give you that. I don't agree with your choice of engine but I hope you are not all talk and finish the swap.

 

That's fine, everyone has their opinion. Mind if I ask why you don't like the VR6 as much?
And believe me, I hope I get this swap done too. It's all I can think about and not having all the parts drives me bonkers.

 

I think it's cool and different. Should put a turbo on from the get go though.

 

Don't listen to 9k. He won't agree with anything. :P

 

How heavy is it?