Is there any body out there with experience pulling dents that might be willing to trade knowledge for alcohol and food?

I finally found a trunk lid (painted and shipped for less than Mazda wants unpainted and before shipping) to repair that ugly battle scar I earned a couple months ago. Unfortunately, the rear trunk panel is collapsed far enough that the new lid wont close. I really want to avoid any cutting and welding, so straightening the panel seems like the best option, but I'm not certain how to proceed. Pull off the bumper cover, then what? If necessary, I'm okay drilling a small hole for the puller, I'll just use that to run some wires.

Any help, guidance, advice, etc, would be greatly appreciate.

 

Hi Kristopher,

Jisoo26 recommended this guy to me for my recent oopsy.
Dent Solutions (ask for Doug Hillius)
206-890-6456

He's a paintless repair guy. I don't think he'll teach you but he'll do it for money.

 

I guess I'll see what he can do. It's definitely NOT a paintless job though. I may pull the bumper cover off this evening and inspect things further. I was under the impression the rear panel was bonded in place, but the more I look at what I can see right now, the more I doubt that idea. If it's just bolted in there, I'll drop $120 on an OEM piece of steel.

 

time for the mazdaspeed rear bumper yo!!

 

The bumper cover, and the bumper itself, are both fine (well, the cover needs to be repainted). It's the rear trunk panel (damned lifted P/U's with plate steal brush guards) that is creased to hell and gone.

 

I had two removed in Olympia - flawless looking, but left me $200 poorer

 

Dings? or legitimate dents?

If the panel is bonded or welded, $200 to bang it close to straight doesn't sound too bad. If it's just bolted in with sealant on the seems, I'll be ordering the OEM part (or contacting the seller I got the lid from).

 

Hi Buddy,

Do you know that you can remove denst with hair dryer and compressed air.

Try this..Definitely it will work.... Ship me a 18 pack Miller CHILL, if this works.

http://www.autoblog.com/2007/05/29/v...ompressed-air/

 

I am Sure this will work for small dent. This is just my 2 cents for your question.

 

I can come collect the Mller as you live in Redmond..

 

OSURX8, did you graduate from Oregon State?

 

Holy Carp! I am definitely trying this when I get my car back! If this works on my rear wheel well you're getting an 18pack of Sam Adams from me!!

 

I am from Oklahoma State University,Stillwater

 

Is the back panel at the latch pushed inwards?
If it is go to the local Auto Parts store (Schucks) and rent a "Porta Power". Or some Rental place. If you are not familiar with what a "Porta Power is , it is a hydraulic cylinder with a hand pump. Able to supply large amounts of linear pressure.
If used incorrectly it will push the back of the trunk out too much.
Remove the rearward interior trunk panel. Block up the back of the trunk with some heavy wood. I'm not talking plywood either. You do not want to crush the back seat area. Also find something to spread the force being applied to the trunk panel EVENLY, another piece of wood works fine. Might I recommend Oak.
Install the "Porta Power" and push the back out where it needs to be.
Now if I were you (and I'm not). I would do this very slowly as to not over extend the back of the trunk. Push a little and check it. Close the trunk and check fit. You can always push it out more.
It's harder to push it back in, unless you know the truck drivers phone #.

BE CAREFUL if yo do this.

 

Okay then Miller Lite it is...

 

Well, the dent is way to extreme for the heat and cold trick, and the rear panel is multiple sheets of steel spot welded together with up to an inch between the sheets. I got it close enough that the new lid fits, but I think it's going to take a professional to finish the job.

Thanks, though.

 

I was bourt last saturday , so I tryd it on a small dent . yeeeaa it did not work, so all-well.

 

I tried this as well. No love for my wheel well fender. I got it nice and hot with the hair dryer and then hit it until there was a layer of ice on it from the CO2. I guess the metal is too thick or the bends are making it too stiff for this to work. Maybe it works better on a wider piece of sheet metal with less reinforcement like a door or hood.