shinka213

the original one that came with MY kit didnt fit the factory maf....ID is too small...
the maf that came with MY kit is smaller than factory

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Interesting. Well, you didn't get a MAF tube with your kit, right? Wasn't your MAF tied out of the way like the instructions specified?
Phil didn't get a MAF tube.

tdiddy

Any ETA on the Pettit MAF tube and a cost? I tried calling the shop but have not heard back yet. If I don't hear anything by the end of next week I will be calling Racing Beat.

OD - how did you remove the Racing Beat anodizing?

shinka213

correct!!.....
there wasnt a maf on my tube when i got the car back...it was tucked away....but we did install it at a later date....in the original tube that came with the kit...

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

How did you manage that?

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure how Shina got her maf tube but with me it came with an upgrade kit a little later after the original install.

shinka213

i didnt get an upgrade kit....just made the original one work using a dremel...

see pic below...



actually this was posted with pics on this thread i believe back in July..

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I got the powder coating off the rb tube with a dremel buffing brush --it was pretty easy. It seems that the RB tube is the same size that is needed. The filter and the internal horn can be fitted with a little work---unsure if it is really needed though. probably not. So just drill a hole for a vacuum access in the maf pipe and use it with the supplied K&N one---to me the RB one is a little big and heavy hanging out there without any support.
Glad i never cut my maf wires!
I guess now the sensor hole for intake temps used before in the upper intake could be used for something else?
Question about the methanol system--I Know Cam mounts the nozzle before the supercharger but in theory what if the methanol injection was injected after the s.c. in the upper or lower manifolds? Now this is a maf guided system--so does post induction injection cause a/f ratios to change?
oldscdragger

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

OSCD

I found this article on methanol injection and might be able to answer your question.

Injector Nozzle Placement

There is a lot of debate about the best place to position the injectors, so this will cover the different options, along with either the pros or cons of each.

Before the Air Intake Temperature Sensor:

This is the most common place because it is usually the easiest. Make sure you never inject pre-intercooler, unless you are injecting pre-blower on a supercharged engine. The idea is that if you have an engine that adjusts timing on its own, then the computer will see the cooler air charge and advance timing, allowing for more power. By placing the injector as far from the intake manifold/air intake sensor as possible, it allows for the water/methanol mixture to be absorbed into the air charge to allow for the best possible even distribution to each cylinder. In theory, since the air charge will be mixed for a longer distance, and therefore time, allowing for the moisture to be absorbed by the air, creating the coolest possible air charge going into the cylinders. If you have multiple nozzles to install, try and space them out by a couple of inches, rather than have them mounted at the exact same location. This will provide better dispersal of the mist into the aircharge.

If your engine is computer controlled, it is probably programmed to reduce boost when it sees a lower air charge temperature. It will do this because it is programmed to output a given horsepower, and since the air charge is colder, it is therefore denser, resulting in less boost being required to provide that given horsepower. If you have a manual or electric boost controller, you may or may not be able to bypass the computer’s control. This area is a common area of discussion among tuners, so we wanted to pass on the information so you can monitor your own personal results.

After the Air Intake Sensor:

This is also a very common place to mount the injector. You can usually mount it either before or after the ‘butterfly’ and still be after the air intake temperature sensor. The main difference when mounting the injector before or after the butterfly is there is less vacuum before versus after the butterfly when idling or driving in vacuum. Translation, when in vacuum, there is more vacuum after the butterfly than before it. Here is why this is important: If your solenoid is placed very far from the injectors (more than a couple of feet), then the vacuum can actually suck just a little bit of the water/methanol. This small amount of moisture ingestion during vacuum is not a problem, but the next time you boost, but not enough to trigger the injection system, the water/meth sucked out will now be replaced with air. It will be a minimal amount, but what happens is the next time the water/meth injection system is triggered, there will be a small amount of air to expel before the water/meth reaches the injector. This is a minor issue, as the injectors are primed very quickly again, but it is something the user needs to know about.

Summary:

Every engine will react differently. What works great for one, might not wors as well for another. A true tuner will take what knowledge is available, and mount the injectors in the location they believe best. After thorough testing, you might want to move the injectors to see if your results improve. This can be challenging for the average user, as there will be a hole where the injector was previously mounted.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Even though you are MAF, your IAT is still in the plenum (unless Cam changed that back for some reason, which would be very bad).
The MAF doesn't care what temp the charge ends up - it knows exactly how much air is going into your motor (in theory - the idle bleed screws this up pretty badly, but I won't get into that here). The change in charge density won't affect the MAF reading regardless of where it happens.
You will want it to happen before the IAT because this will affect ignition timing.
For maximum actual charge cooling (to yield the densest charge), you want the injection to happen after the blower.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ok--great info guys thanks---i know now, in my situation why i am questioning this. As you know I am running the int x for the present --soon to swap over to the flash BUT, now , for me, the int x takes the iat reading from the sensor in the upper intake --as it should be, but by default. I never had to modify my maf iat connections as the int x was capable of bypassing the oem pcm and maf reading. The install instructions for the Pettit system tells you to pull the iat wires from the maf and connect them to the new uim iat sensor but I never did that because I didnt have too.. I believe a lot of people with this kit have done that. SO before the flash is installed I also have to convert to this way of reading the IAT . And I had not thought of that---duh. Knowledge gained---thanks!
Jeff --with the flash there will no longer be an idle air hose. My backyard fix will no longer be required for a smooth and constant idle. That vacuum hose will go to the purge control sensor directly , the air jet and the omp will have one ways and go back to the air intake like oem.
I wonder with the capabilities of the methanol kit and since the iat sensor will be reading post injection and we have the maf system working---will the iat be low enough to tell the pcm to go to a "warm up" mode? If that did occur would that not take the st trims etc out of the picture? Yo would not want that --right?
Juan and I spoke of this a little but I was confused at the time---kinda my normal state lately.
Juan thanks for the direction --will be reading on this today. You are doing sweet work--appreciate it.
oldscdragger

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Same fab we did on mine, Shinka. I cut off the airbox snorkel flush with the box using a Sawzall, dressed down the flanges with a dremel, and drilled the vacuum fitting hole for a self-tapping metal fitting. Charles, et. al. doing this, you probably already know this, so my apologies if I'm being redundant: Moon was very insistent that the vacuum fitting be downstream in the intake flow from the MAF sensor. This is the fix until Pettit gets the new housings made.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Hey Ray--i remember, i was originally puzzled because I was thinking for some reason that the pcm after the flash was picking up the air temps at the maf instead of on the uim sensor.
True on the vacuum location --and as far away from the maf as possible. I also placed a appropriate sized rubber grommet on the vacuum fitting and used glue to get a tight fit.. Also make sure the vacuum fitting is not penetrating into the pipe itself much at all.
Seems like the oem pipe is slightly bigger than RB's--oem is at least a 90mm and RB is at 87mm or so?
I am understanding this kit more everyday.
Now hope to make the power as useable as possible ==---for a road track that is.
oldscdragger

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

if you're serious about an emissions-legal high flow exhaust:


https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/official-teamrx8-part-out-134056/

CURED RX8

For my FI information, (with getting the Pettit SC on a stock RX8) of the usually recommended performance upgrades, which would you recommend before, and which after the SC installation. I guess I'm seeking kind of a logical order of upgrades if the Pettit SC is the main focus.

I have synthetic oils, do premix etc. I have the Short Shifter (installed). Picked up some SS brake lines and coilovers already because I found deals on ones I liked (both uninstalled).

-Intake - would be part of SC kit.

-Pulley - also part of SC kit.


Of the other upgrades I'd like to do, my guess of the timing would be...

Flywheel (?) and exhaust (at least the hi-flo cat piece) "before"...because they would have somewhat more of an effect on the tuning.

Tires (and maybe brakes (unsure about stock)) "before" or shortly after, just for safety reasons.

Suspension (the coilovers, + sways, then maybe braces)...I'm not sure if it would be better to upgrade the suspension before or after getting the SC. Would the extra power make that much of a difference in the suspension setup? Everthing will be adjustable in my suspension setup anyway?


Any input on or corrections to the above would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys (and girl)!

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

Relocate your oil filter.

CURED RX8

I read through the install and know about moving the oil fill tube over by the master cylinder mount. I didn't know about the oil filter. Why do you relocate it? Does it not fit anymore or is there a different reason? (The stock location of it is terrible, I should have probably done it already anyway)

Whose kit did you guys use, Greddy? Made your own? Other?

If Pettit installs the SC, do they relocate it?

Is that enough questions? Sorry!

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

I just changed my oil filter last week. First time since I installed my SC and there was enough room to hand loose and remove it. Just make sure to let the engine sit for an hour or so to avoid burning your hand. Also, I punch a small hole on top of the oil filter before draining the used oil. That way you don't end up with oil all over the engine upon oil filter removal.

CURED RX8

OK so oil relocation is "recommended" for the convenience, not "necessary" for the install.

I haven't read of anything that is "necessary" for the SC install.?.

My question was more if I'm also installing lightweight flywheel, exhaust, tires, suspension etc. Which would you recommend doing before the Pettit SC.

I'm just trying to get a timeline and direction going for this project. I tend to be picky about parts and getting good deals, so it takes me awhile to research, find and get what I want.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

You dont need a light flywheel if you go with pettit. An exhaust would be good. None of the other is needed before the pettit kit--it would just be a personnel choice.
if you decided to do a flywheel anyway go ahead and upgrade the clutch.
oscd

shinka213

i think for me, IMO, looking at other performance mods before and/or after the pettit install would depend on how you drive your car...what kind of mileage..ie city and/or highway and if your gonna track it...

those would be top criteria on what i would replace...especially since the blower is an expensive proposition...

the 8 has a lot of good oem stuff already...suspension, etc...
but i noticed since i got the blower, i DO drive the car differently...

so having the tein s techs, eibach sways and MS strut bar...installed prior to the SC worked out well...

ive been told by cam that the factory clutch is good along with oem calipers...i chose EBC 3GD rotors (slotted and dimpled).. they seem to work really well with oem calipers...i still have oem pads....

before the install, i was runnin with a borla catback...since the blower, i have a straight pipe...which i will prolly keep on...since i put less than 5k per year, i am exempt from emissions..

Pettit does not relocate the oil filter with their installs but if you want it done, im sure they can do it...
Im lazy...i just have my shop do it...(change my oil)

CURED RX8

What do you mean when you say "you don't NEED a lightweight flywheel if you go with Pettit"? I don't want to misinterpret that. Are you talking about not needing one for the actual install of the SC, because I get that. Or are you referring to the funtionality of a lightweight flywheel with the Pettit SC, because I'm not sure I understand that. For track day applications I think it would have obvious advantages. For daily driver or just spirited street driving maybe not so much.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

A light-weight flywheel will offer the same performance envelope, regardless of the FI choice.
Whether or not you "need" or "want" one is not germane to the discussion of FI selection.
The OE clutch and pressure plate are good to about 280 - 300 ft/lbs of torque, depending on its condition.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The numbers listed in Exedy's product info for the OE replacement.
Since they are the OE supplier, there is little reason to believe that there is any difference between the OE clutch and the replacement OE clutch.
Having had both in hand, I can tell you that they are physically indistinguishable.

california style

what do people think about tires / wheels?

As Cured is talking about changing his wheels, and will be getting a fair bit mroe power with the SC, should he think about fatter rear wheels?

And if so what should he use on the fronts to balance them out for best handling?