Duz this price seem too high?
12-24-2003 | 03:22 AM
#1
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Duz this price seem too high?
I'm looking at a silver, with all options. (GT, apperance, accent, in dash 6, navi, red leather, 6spd, etc.) for about 33 grand. Do you guys think i can get it down even more? thanks in advanced.
12-24-2003 | 03:55 AM
#3
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 225
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From: Houston, TX
Don't know where you're from and market supply-demand in your given area will undoubtedly come into play. The MSRP on what you described above is $34,150 (unless you left something out). The dealer invoice adds up to $31,516 (including $520 dealer prep). I'd suspect that you can deal down unless cars are tight in your area or unless you're in a hurry to buy this particular car.
As I said earlier, it depends upon the geographic area and the corresponding supply in the area. Some guys claim to have bought well under dealer invoice. I got mine for $500 over dealer invoice (plus about $75 in "fees" and tax, title, and license).
One very easy method for chipping away at a dealer quote is to shop the quote with other dealers in the area. Take the above quote to a competing dealer and ask them what they'd charge you for the same car. If their offer is below your current quote then you've made headway. If they come in above the current quote, let them know you can buy it elsewhere for "x" amount. They'll generally start by offering to match it. Don't settle for that. Tell them that all things being equal, you'll probably buy from the first guy. That, and be up front with them about the fact that you're shopping a quote. Let them know you intend to see six other dealers (or two, whatever is realistic) and after their subsequent quotes, that you're BUYING. Use the word "buying" it's one thing to "shop a quote" it's another to be "shopping". Buying is a much stronger word and it will motivate your dealer somewhat.
Then, take their lowest quote to the next dealer and do the same thing. Then, if you're really energetic, re-visit the same circle of dealers and go another round toward lowering the price. They're making plenty of profit on the car at $33K. There should be ample room to deal.
It probably goes without saying, but line up your financing before you hit the closing. You don't have to borrow from your lined-up source but at least you can sit in closing and say "My bank will finance the car at 5.15 percent. If you can do better than that, I'll look at it." If they have any incentive for making "their loan" at all, they'll come off at least a quarter point on the interest. If not, you don't need 'em anyway since you've got your financing sewed up.
The above approach is straight-forward. It takes the "ritual" of haggling out of the picture and reduces the focus of interaction to one central theme---- "how badly do you want my business." Here's my best deal, can you do better? Simple. Just be sure and keep your option packages constant or you wind up comparing apples to oranges. Dealers aren't dummies and they'll try to move you in the direction of apples and oranges. If you find something slightly different that you like a WHOLE lot more, (such as the only Nordic Green in town -- whatever it is; could be anything) obviously keep your cool and don't let on that it (to you) adds any value whatsoever to the car.
When it comes to getting a good deal, your biggest 'enemies' other than market demand in your area are: 1) being rushed and 2) falling in love with a particular car. Even if you do fall in love with a particular car however, if you're subtle about it you can buy that same car from another dealer in your area if that second dealer will give you the price you want. These guys swap cars all the time. If you're not subtle, the original dealer will likely be a dick and claim to have a deal working on the car you're looking for - blocking you from working with the other dealer.
That's the extent of my experience on the subject. I'm sure there are others who can lend you even more valuable advice. Good luck and let us know when you park that baby in your driveway!!!!
As I said earlier, it depends upon the geographic area and the corresponding supply in the area. Some guys claim to have bought well under dealer invoice. I got mine for $500 over dealer invoice (plus about $75 in "fees" and tax, title, and license).
One very easy method for chipping away at a dealer quote is to shop the quote with other dealers in the area. Take the above quote to a competing dealer and ask them what they'd charge you for the same car. If their offer is below your current quote then you've made headway. If they come in above the current quote, let them know you can buy it elsewhere for "x" amount. They'll generally start by offering to match it. Don't settle for that. Tell them that all things being equal, you'll probably buy from the first guy. That, and be up front with them about the fact that you're shopping a quote. Let them know you intend to see six other dealers (or two, whatever is realistic) and after their subsequent quotes, that you're BUYING. Use the word "buying" it's one thing to "shop a quote" it's another to be "shopping". Buying is a much stronger word and it will motivate your dealer somewhat.
Then, take their lowest quote to the next dealer and do the same thing. Then, if you're really energetic, re-visit the same circle of dealers and go another round toward lowering the price. They're making plenty of profit on the car at $33K. There should be ample room to deal.
It probably goes without saying, but line up your financing before you hit the closing. You don't have to borrow from your lined-up source but at least you can sit in closing and say "My bank will finance the car at 5.15 percent. If you can do better than that, I'll look at it." If they have any incentive for making "their loan" at all, they'll come off at least a quarter point on the interest. If not, you don't need 'em anyway since you've got your financing sewed up.
The above approach is straight-forward. It takes the "ritual" of haggling out of the picture and reduces the focus of interaction to one central theme---- "how badly do you want my business." Here's my best deal, can you do better? Simple. Just be sure and keep your option packages constant or you wind up comparing apples to oranges. Dealers aren't dummies and they'll try to move you in the direction of apples and oranges. If you find something slightly different that you like a WHOLE lot more, (such as the only Nordic Green in town -- whatever it is; could be anything) obviously keep your cool and don't let on that it (to you) adds any value whatsoever to the car.
When it comes to getting a good deal, your biggest 'enemies' other than market demand in your area are: 1) being rushed and 2) falling in love with a particular car. Even if you do fall in love with a particular car however, if you're subtle about it you can buy that same car from another dealer in your area if that second dealer will give you the price you want. These guys swap cars all the time. If you're not subtle, the original dealer will likely be a dick and claim to have a deal working on the car you're looking for - blocking you from working with the other dealer.
That's the extent of my experience on the subject. I'm sure there are others who can lend you even more valuable advice. Good luck and let us know when you park that baby in your driveway!!!!
12-24-2003 | 04:25 AM
#5
Blue By You
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,717
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee
Originally posted by FirstSpin
Don't know where you're from and market supply-demand in your given area will undoubtedly come into play. The MSRP on what you described above is $34,150 (unless you left something out). The dealer invoice adds up to $31,516 (including $520 dealer prep). I'd suspect that you can deal down unless cars are tight in your area or unless you're in a hurry to buy this particular car.
As I said earlier, it depends upon the geographic area and the corresponding supply in the area. Some guys claim to have bought well under dealer invoice. I got mine for $500 over dealer invoice (plus about $75 in "fees" and tax, title, and license).
One very easy method for chipping away at a dealer quote is to shop the quote with other dealers in the area. Take the above quote to a competing dealer and ask them what they'd charge you for the same car. If their offer is below your current quote then you've made headway. If they come in above the current quote, let them know you can buy it elsewhere for "x" amount. They'll generally start by offering to match it. Don't settle for that. Tell them that all things being equal, you'll probably buy from the first guy. That, and be up front with them about the fact that you're shopping a quote. Let them know you intend to see six other dealers (or two, whatever is realistic) and after their subsequent quotes, that you're BUYING. Use the word "buying" it's one thing to "shop a quote" it's another to be "shopping". Buying is a much stronger word and it will motivate your dealer somewhat.
Then, take their lowest quote to the next dealer and do the same thing. Then, if you're really energetic, re-visit the same circle of dealers and go another round toward lowering the price. They're making plenty of profit on the car at $33K. There should be ample room to deal.
It probably goes without saying, but line up your financing before you hit the closing. You don't have to borrow from your lined-up source but at least you can sit in closing and say "My bank will finance the car at 5.15 percent. If you can do better than that, I'll look at it." If they have any incentive for making "their loan" at all, they'll come off at least a quarter point on the interest. If not, you don't need 'em anyway since you've got your financing sewed up.
The above approach is straight-forward. It takes the "ritual" of haggling out of the picture and reduces the focus of interaction to one central theme---- "how badly do you want my business." Here's my best deal, can you do better? Simple. Just be sure and keep your option packages constant or you wind up comparing apples to oranges. Dealers aren't dummies and they'll try to move you in the direction of apples and oranges. If you find something slightly different that you like a WHOLE lot more, (such as the only Nordic Green in town -- whatever it is; could be anything) obviously keep your cool and don't let on that it (to you) adds any value whatsoever to the car.
When it comes to getting a good deal, your biggest 'enemies' other than market demand in your area are: 1) being rushed and 2) falling in love with a particular car. Even if you do fall in love with a particular car however, if you're subtle about it you can buy that same car from another dealer in your area if that second dealer will give you the price you want. These guys swap cars all the time. If you're not subtle, the original dealer will likely be a dick and claim to have a deal working on the car you're looking for - blocking you from working with the other dealer.
That's the extent of my experience on the subject. I'm sure there are others who can lend you even more valuable advice. Good luck and let us know when you park that baby in your driveway!!!!
Don't know where you're from and market supply-demand in your given area will undoubtedly come into play. The MSRP on what you described above is $34,150 (unless you left something out). The dealer invoice adds up to $31,516 (including $520 dealer prep). I'd suspect that you can deal down unless cars are tight in your area or unless you're in a hurry to buy this particular car.
As I said earlier, it depends upon the geographic area and the corresponding supply in the area. Some guys claim to have bought well under dealer invoice. I got mine for $500 over dealer invoice (plus about $75 in "fees" and tax, title, and license).
One very easy method for chipping away at a dealer quote is to shop the quote with other dealers in the area. Take the above quote to a competing dealer and ask them what they'd charge you for the same car. If their offer is below your current quote then you've made headway. If they come in above the current quote, let them know you can buy it elsewhere for "x" amount. They'll generally start by offering to match it. Don't settle for that. Tell them that all things being equal, you'll probably buy from the first guy. That, and be up front with them about the fact that you're shopping a quote. Let them know you intend to see six other dealers (or two, whatever is realistic) and after their subsequent quotes, that you're BUYING. Use the word "buying" it's one thing to "shop a quote" it's another to be "shopping". Buying is a much stronger word and it will motivate your dealer somewhat.
Then, take their lowest quote to the next dealer and do the same thing. Then, if you're really energetic, re-visit the same circle of dealers and go another round toward lowering the price. They're making plenty of profit on the car at $33K. There should be ample room to deal.
It probably goes without saying, but line up your financing before you hit the closing. You don't have to borrow from your lined-up source but at least you can sit in closing and say "My bank will finance the car at 5.15 percent. If you can do better than that, I'll look at it." If they have any incentive for making "their loan" at all, they'll come off at least a quarter point on the interest. If not, you don't need 'em anyway since you've got your financing sewed up.
The above approach is straight-forward. It takes the "ritual" of haggling out of the picture and reduces the focus of interaction to one central theme---- "how badly do you want my business." Here's my best deal, can you do better? Simple. Just be sure and keep your option packages constant or you wind up comparing apples to oranges. Dealers aren't dummies and they'll try to move you in the direction of apples and oranges. If you find something slightly different that you like a WHOLE lot more, (such as the only Nordic Green in town -- whatever it is; could be anything) obviously keep your cool and don't let on that it (to you) adds any value whatsoever to the car.
When it comes to getting a good deal, your biggest 'enemies' other than market demand in your area are: 1) being rushed and 2) falling in love with a particular car. Even if you do fall in love with a particular car however, if you're subtle about it you can buy that same car from another dealer in your area if that second dealer will give you the price you want. These guys swap cars all the time. If you're not subtle, the original dealer will likely be a dick and claim to have a deal working on the car you're looking for - blocking you from working with the other dealer.
That's the extent of my experience on the subject. I'm sure there are others who can lend you even more valuable advice. Good luck and let us know when you park that baby in your driveway!!!!
Good advice but it can be far more simple. In fact you should be able to get a car for around invoice without ever even having to speak to a salesperson or going to a dealer. The internet sales manager or fleet manager at a dealer should be able to help you out. I've never used this method but I've heard of many many people getting great deals without ever having to step foot in a dealer.
12-24-2003 | 09:58 AM
#6
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 54
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From: NE Ohio
At the risk of offending a lot of people who say you can get your price $200-$300 over invoice or even below invoice, your current price may be fairly decent. For an imported car, especially a relatively new one like the RX-8, it's very difficult to get it below invoice. I just talked to another RX-8 buyer and he said he got his $200-$300 below invoice! I said wow he got a great deal. I got my RX-8 in August for $800 below list price. He then said oh, I meant list price. People get the two confused sometimes and even the definition of invoice get tricky with all the destination charges, other fees, etc.
You really need to take into consideration your location too. In the snow belt, you could probably get your price lower. In warmer climates or in NYC, it's probably more difficult.
I would use edmunds.com and kbb.com. If you trust Edmunds, they will tell you the average selling price based upon actual dealers sales in your area and based upon options and color. When I ran your options, I came out with higher invoice numbers that a previous poster so run them yourself again.
Just for reference when I bought my RX-8 in August, Edmunds said the average selling price was List Price (i.e. people were pre-ordering). I got mine for $800 below list price. The average selling price has quickly dropped well below list in my area of the country. The average selling price is now $1400 below list so on average I paid a premium of $600 to get my RX-8 in August. Thank goodness I got the $500 cash card and free maintenance. :D
You really need to take into consideration your location too. In the snow belt, you could probably get your price lower. In warmer climates or in NYC, it's probably more difficult.
I would use edmunds.com and kbb.com. If you trust Edmunds, they will tell you the average selling price based upon actual dealers sales in your area and based upon options and color. When I ran your options, I came out with higher invoice numbers that a previous poster so run them yourself again.
Just for reference when I bought my RX-8 in August, Edmunds said the average selling price was List Price (i.e. people were pre-ordering). I got mine for $800 below list price. The average selling price has quickly dropped well below list in my area of the country. The average selling price is now $1400 below list so on average I paid a premium of $600 to get my RX-8 in August. Thank goodness I got the $500 cash card and free maintenance. :D
Last edited by l_doggy; 12-24-2003 at 10:00 AM.
12-24-2003 | 10:41 AM
#7
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Using Consumer Reports, I calculated Dealer Invoice based on the following:
Base for the MT 6 speed: $24,659 + $520 Destination
G/T Package: $3,441
6-changer CD: $400
Appearance Package: $775
Navigation: $1,721
Rotary Accent Package: $111
Summing the above, I get $31,627. Higher than the number in my post above because I left out the Rotary Accent Package before. Like I said, maybe I left something out or perhaps I misconstrued the description and I'm including something that shouldn't be there.
Trying to offer some help. Hope I was successful to at least some extent.....
Base for the MT 6 speed: $24,659 + $520 Destination
G/T Package: $3,441
6-changer CD: $400
Appearance Package: $775
Navigation: $1,721
Rotary Accent Package: $111
Summing the above, I get $31,627. Higher than the number in my post above because I left out the Rotary Accent Package before. Like I said, maybe I left something out or perhaps I misconstrued the description and I'm including something that shouldn't be there.
Trying to offer some help. Hope I was successful to at least some extent.....
12-24-2003 | 11:10 AM
#8
RainMan is Back
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,650
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
I tend to agree here. If the area you happen to be in has 8's in stock you should be able to get invoice + $500-750 without much negotiation at all. Some folks can work better magic others cannot!
12-27-2003 | 02:51 PM
#14
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: NOVA
S-plan is actually about $15 to $30 under invoice! I work for a dealer, they will show you the invoice and it is pre-printed on every copy! If they don't, then ask to see it! And to show you the S-plan price on the copy...
Go for it, GO4IT! The dealer actually loses money up front and then Mazda cuts the dealer a check for the difference... So no profit comes from your profit it actually comes from Mazda's!
I bought mine on August 13th and even though I work for mazda I still payed a pretty penny because I placed an order on it before they were even out. Only saved $500 off sticker. Should of waited, though the joy I have gotten from the car was well worth it to me.
Good Job, and welcome to the family! :D
Sunlight Silver, 1GT, 6-sp, Apperance package, rear-spoiler, 6-disc... You'll know I caught you in my rear-view when you see the WRTITUP plate on the back!
Go for it, GO4IT! The dealer actually loses money up front and then Mazda cuts the dealer a check for the difference... So no profit comes from your profit it actually comes from Mazda's!
I bought mine on August 13th and even though I work for mazda I still payed a pretty penny because I placed an order on it before they were even out. Only saved $500 off sticker. Should of waited, though the joy I have gotten from the car was well worth it to me.
Good Job, and welcome to the family! :D
Sunlight Silver, 1GT, 6-sp, Apperance package, rear-spoiler, 6-disc... You'll know I caught you in my rear-view when you see the WRTITUP plate on the back!
12-28-2003 | 08:23 AM
#16
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Philly
Thanks Willey. I'm going to pull the trigger on this deal. I should have the car by New Years. Hardest part is picking the colors. I'll get a completely trimmed out 8. You are dead on about the S plan. It's what it is. Invoice and move on. The dealers seem to like the plan, it moves metal fast for them. I'll let you know what ends up in the garage. I'm pretty excited!!!
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