phoenixfire425

Well i just put a hold on this car. and i am going for the final test drive tomorrow.

I need to know the right questions to ask the dealer for this car?

http://www.waikemnissan.com/VehicleDetails/709628453

so what should ask them? and what should i have checked.

I currently own a 2000 Honda Prelude with 110k on it. That i dearly love but the maintenance is starting to catch up and th modifications i have done are complete and i cannot do anything else except turbo or supercharge. 287hp to the wheels NA. but with just having to re-build the tranny and then the radiator. i am sure the next to go will be the motor plus the body just started rusting.


Now when i did the test drive there was a bit of bog when it first started out in first gear. There is a 3" exhaust from the cat back going into one muffler on the driver side :/ i would rather both sides. but all well.. anyway there is incredibly loud crackle when accelerating. I always thought that Back Pressure was a Huge thing for rotatory motors? Then i also noticed the clutch is SUPER touchy. now i have a 6 puck clutch in the prelude with a stage 3 pressure plate. and its nothing like what the RX8 has in it. Basically soon as the clutch comes off the floor it grabs almost 100% is this normal or do you think it was an upgrade or maybe something wrong. And i guess lastly after the test drive i opened the hood and was looking while it was running and i could hear a high pitch whine sound almost like what the GM motors did when they are hot.

So basically upon tomorrows test drive and after i take it to my mechanic if all goes well i will buy it unless i find out otherwise that i don't want it because of some flaw.

So what i need to know is the Questions to ask about this interesting little motor, and what i should have checked before I buy..

Oh also is the maintenance any different on this motor vs a traditional motor.

Thank you for the help!!!!

Nouvellion

I wouldn't consider myself knowledgeable enough to answer most of your questions here, but before buying an 8 I'd recommend reading as much as you can about the requirements of a rotary engine before jumping into anything. Knowing what you're getting into before you buy may save a lot of headache down the line.

phoenixfire425

Well I am trying to do a alot of reading on this form and its a lot of info.. And I am not going to lie. I have to learn a lot and fast about these motors.

So thats why i was asking those questions before i sign the contract agreement.

Go48

Have a proper compression test done by a rotary mechanic. Aside from that, it is obvious to me that this car has been "butchered". Personally, I wouldn't even consider purchasing this car, but to each his own.

phoenixfire425

What exactly do you mean when you are saying butchered?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The exhaust sounds like the HKS single exhaust.

Your comment about back pressure shows a complete lack of understanding with these engines. We not only don't need backpressure NA, but there is no up-side to back pressure. "Back pressure" in NA piston cars is usually really being referred to as exhaust velocity, and shrinking exhaust diameter increases exhaust speed, which increases the amount of exhaust scavenged from the chamber. There is no real scavenging effect with rotaries, so we just want the maximum flow possible. Wider just slows down the exhaust velocity through expansion, which helps decrease exhaust temps and that's about it.

I would guess that the clutch is aftermarket, and probably is adjusted incorrectly if it engaging that low.

Lunacy

Almost 15k for an 04? lol.

No.

phoenixfire425

Thank You for the info!
Now will there be a way to quiet the crackle down with resonator or something?


So if you were to look at this.

***note the paint job on this car is flawless and very well done.. its a Orange Perl with black two tone. with a carbon fiber hood and spoiler, and the body kit. I know that the paint job was kudo $$$$

But if you were to look at it would you give it consideration or would you stray far away?

phoenixfire425

Considering that the Paint is flawless and the after-market work that has been done.
ie Rims, Paint, Body-kit, hood, spoiler?

Is it that bad of an idea?

If so should I work for a lower price. and if so what kind of proof should i show the dealer to get them to drop the price.
So far i was able to get them down to $14,200

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It depends on that crackle. Where are you? You don't have a location under your avatar.

I would HIGHLY suggest a local 8 owner check it out with you. A 'crackle' could be used to describe anything from a busted resonator, broken seals, marbles in a can, etc... Some things can be fixed easily and cheaply, others, not so much.

Since it is an 04, you also need to find out the engine history from MazdaUSA. If the engine was replaced, how long ago, etc...

And no, I wouldn't even consider that car...personally. There are too many hints that it was molested, rather than tastefully modded.

Lunacy

Aftermarket parts like rims and a bodykit won't do much for the price. At 50k miles, I wouldnt pay over 11k for it.

Go48

Like I said, to each his own. I don't care for the body work and considing the extreme (my opinion) body mods, I would wonder what else the previous owner did to the car, good or bad, that is not apparent from a visual inspection. It is OK to mod a car, but I prefer to start with a stock car and do the mods to suit me. If you like the mods, as you apparently do, then go for it.

But do yourself a big favor and have a PROPER compression test done on the engine by someone who knows rotary engines. It may cost you $60-$80 but it may save you big bucks.

cornholio135

iTrader: (2)

NOOOOOO!!!!! run away from that thing...look for an 06 or higher-one owner. check all service history by having a Mazda Dealer run the VIN. for that price you can a newer 8 with less mileage.

phoenixfire425

Ok i Def will have that done!
But just curious about that.

They offer a 1,000 mile 30 day warranty.

But Mazda has the 100,000 mile warranty on the motor.

So how should i handle that if the compression test comes back bad.

Also what should the compression cycles be when tested so i know for sure because i prob will have the dealer do it.

phoenixfire425

Sadly there is only one other one in the area and its an 2005 with 56,000 on it and they want $22K!!!!!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Their 1,000 mile 30 day warranty is probably a bumper to bumper one, and is in addition to the 100,000 mile engine core warranty from Mazda. If the engine fails within the first 1,000 miles, then it's your pick on who does the repair, though I would go with the dealer you bought it from, since the 100,000 core engine warranty doesn't cover the fluids, gaskets, etc... that have to be replaced when the engine is, so a "free engine" costs you 500-600 for all that stuff. Just the core itself is covered.

Don't buy that car until AFTER a compression test is done AND you get the engine history from MazdaUSA. Give them a call with the VIN for the history.

THe compression test has 2 sets of 3 numbers and an engine rpm.

Like:
Rotor 1: 6.9 6.9 6.9
Rotor 2: 6.9 6.9 6.9
250rpm

Each number is 1 of the rotor faces.

Those are bare minimums for passing btw. The engine RPM changes the numbers, so if the RPM drops, the numbers can too and still be passing. A perfect healthy engine should be mid 9s on the compression.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Then keep searching, go farther, out, etc...

I spent 4 months looking for the exact 8 that I wanted, and it ended up being ~1,100 miles away. I flew out there, dealer picked me up, and I drove it home.

Don't 'settle' on this car. SERIOUSLY!!! Don't 'settle'. Get a good one that has what you want, take your time finding it.

cornholio135

iTrader: (2)

Here is a link to autrader.com with a search for used RX8's within a 100mi radius

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/search...=1274886716832

phoenixfire425

Thank you for that info!





Awesome thanks i will take a look!

phoenixfire425

Eh...

I dont know what all this is able but i called a local mazda dealer and had them run the VIN on the car.

and they said it had a laundry list of warranty work already done on it.

He told me that the Motor was replaced last Aug. and that they extended the power tranni warranty 100,000 miles.

That changes alot huh?

cornholio135

iTrader: (2)

Price is still too high. those aftermarket parts and paint mean nothing to the sale price...

phoenixfire425

Is it bad to see that the motor was replaced at such low millage?

and i am def going to talk them way down.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

I would stay away from that deal. $4000 to much. The car looks like it was owned by a ricer teenager and no doubt was beaten like a dead horse.
You could do alot better if you looked a little harder.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

This is a much better deal. LINK

phoenixfire425

OK great!

Thank you everyone for the help!!!

So basically unless they come down on the price then i am not going to do it. I will just keep looking i guess.

The whole replacing the motor at 40K think kinda scares me.