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I have removed the shims and shifted the motor mounts on the driverside. The intake now has more clearance, the downpipe is very tight but now fits.
The Banzai cross member brace does not come with engine motor mounts. Overall I don't have any complaints about the combination. Without having to fabricate anything.
I have removed the shims and shifted the motor mounts on the driverside. The intake now has more clearance, the downpipe is very tight but now fits.
The Banzai cross member brace does not come with engine motor mounts. Overall I don't have any complaints about the combination. Without having to fabricate anything.
Interesting, I'm assuming you bought yours used since this has been discontinued for some time now? Mine 100% came with mounts back in 2019, regardless this explains why you went with FFE, was just curious.
Anyways, nice work, enjoy watching other people tackle this swap and seeing how they do it. Curious, do you have any photos of your exhaust manifold? Mine sits in a similar position to yours.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 11-29-2023 at 04:03 PM.
but as posted in another thread, wait until you see the Banzai engine support brace modified without any of those parts, but the engine instead directly supported on the brace itself.
In regards to bushings those are built into the FFE engine mounts and the Banzai cross member did come with bushings they are not needed. The exhaust manifold is the turboblown cast unit.
I did not really consider the Banzai engine mounts, they would have worked in hindsight but I think the FFE are a better design which is why I wanted them specifically for my build.
Sorry, I was specifically speaking to the engine mount poly bushings with the Banzai brace, not the bracket, I understand now. Yes my crossmember did not come with the brackets, I fortunately received factory REW ones with my initial engine. Thanks for the info on the manifold too.
he already addressed/explained the whys and wherefores for his position on that though, but it might not hurt for others in that particular situation to know about it.
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Fuel and Oil lines are complete. Both fuel rails and oil coolers plumbed in parallel. I'm hoping the extra effort will get me better reliability and functionality. The water pump is next on the list, currently zip tied where I will be figuring out a bracket to hold it up.
Working on the coolant system and have a few questions.
Would like opinions on turbo coolant lines, using the rear iron for coolant feed. I don't have a good idea on where the turbo coolant drain should be. What should I consider?
Working on the coolant system and have a few questions.
Would like opinions on turbo coolant lines, using the rear iron for coolant feed. I don't have a good idea on where the turbo coolant drain should be. What should I consider?
My setup is a bit different as I have the stock water pump, but i plumbed the turbo water return right to the pump inlet. You'll want to have it tee into your electric pump inlet somewhere (low pressure side of pump). I also used the nipple off the top of the rear iron for turbo coolant supply.
Almost finished. A couple of minor issues to figure out, alternator mounting(will figure out a way to mount to the strut bar), plumb the catch can, AC wiring (I cannot figure out what wire is the output to turn on the compressor from the amplifier), and some aesthetic things like the lower bumper/lip. Started the engine but having some issues getting it to idle. Almost ready to take around the block. Finally off jack stands.
If anyone knows Haltech and won't mind assist with the first start that would be great.