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a bit surprising given that ~1 week ago their account on ebay indicated they were away and wouldn’t likely return until 2031.
I sort of assumed the principal(s) there might have been drafted into the war.
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Decided to build my own custom “racing” version instead but we’ll see
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Looks like someone tried to buy it I assume, as this is now on the page. Wasn't there yesterday.
Back to rotor clearancing, I have confirmed a more valid rotor tip clearancing of 0.10mm at the tips (4 thou) so I am planning on doing this at lunch or after work. At least get the bridgeport all setup at lunch and then crank them out after work.
I wish I could, I left my eshaft at work. Apparently our v-blocks are super rusted so measuring woulda been useless. grabbing mine from home and measuring tomorrow. But the rotor and front plate are mounted ready to see this. I can hopefully get my wife to get a video of it. Hopefully I can understand it and try to narrate, likelihood is no though.
Rusty V blocks?
I hate it when people neglect their tooling.
HATE it.
Slowed up on getting the engine bay cleaned up, as I am realizing while I was removing the harness that I need to get a sound plan of the engine bay harness. Will begin labeling connectors tonight before I completely remove it. I am also putting together a harness diagram on my off time at work to get a better grasp of all exactly will need to be wired in, and so I can gauge power wires, as well as fully make sure I have enough I/O. Labelling the harness before removal will help with this as well. Running into small discrepancies of smaller components (hood latch sensor, crash sensor) to see if I want/need to retain them or not.
Also doing some research, for the AEM wideband and K-type module, I will have to default to Haltech components to utilize CAN. @TeamRX8, to my rx7club post, I contacted both Haltech and AEM and in a nutshell I do need the ability to modify or at least gain access to each CAN device to assign or mate the addresses to each other (whether its a mac id, or whatever). I still don't have a good explanation of AEMnet and normal CAN systems but both companies claim that they have them locked to only their brand devices unless otherwise noted.
On another note, I was able to finish up clearancing the tips of my rotors. Took as close as I could get to 5-5.5 thou off of either side. One of the rotors had clear tip heat marks indicating they were rubbing the irons in the previous REW. I will be curious to see what Chip at Chips Motorsports will say when he sees these, probably assumed a blind man did it by the counts of his work. Still need to deburr anything in the corner and side seal grooves, but thats something I can pick at during lunch today.
Also fyi the cut marks left behind from the tool are smooth. Its all the same depths.
Next up will be drilling all the housings and irons for the oversized studs. I have a pretty good plan for this, and it lines up with what others have done so I have decent confidence that it will work ok. But, we'll see.
(First pic is of the test rotor, so there is a depth difference nearest the tip.)
Also just wanted to post up a pretty useful PCM pinout/diagram that I am finding easier to work with than the adaptronic pinout; that being said its nice to cross reference them to see which wire colors correspond to each. Compliments to Haltech for this diagram. I guess I'm not digging far enough to find this.
nobody doing these kind of mods should be without one, let alone not familiar with it
just joking of course
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No joking, you're right ha. I appreciate hard truths if it means less stuff breaking, less time wasted, and results sooner.
So I have looked through the service manual in the past but never dove into understanding it. But as removing the harness scared me a bit, I decided to jump into all of it now. a bit a late, rookie mistake buttt better late than never.
I have (I feel) a pretty thorough excel sheet forming with what exactly I'm after for the harness. I will post it up for a "formal and friendly" review soon There is still some stuff that I'm uncertain about so it would be good for any additional eyes for feedback.
In the mean time it does appear that the conclusion of AEM CAN components (aside from their CD dash displays) will not communicate with Haltech CAN. Pretty dumb imo that each company "locks" out a universal communication protocol so they can only use their branded CAN accessories. But whatever. Will be moving to a Haltech 8 channel thermocouple module, and either an AEM analog Wideband or a CAN Haltech WB1. Still hesitant on which wideband sensor to run. With the AEM I can burn out 2-3 LSU 4.9 sensors before I reach the cost of a single Haltech WB1 with the slower NTK sensor. And I could try the 17212 lsu 4.9 for further durability. Currently I am counting only 3 analog voltage inputs open on my ecu, so using a CAN wideband would keep further expansion open in the future or for sensors I have missed.
i have expansion and integration through an AiM Pista display
Define expansion and integration?
Reason I ask is the AEM display can communicate with the Haltech ECU's as well, but it cannot transmit any sensor data that is connected to it back to the Haltech. I am wondering it if the AIM is the same way or not.
I don’t quite understand why you machined the rotor tips to then send them to Chip any more than you buying equipment from and using Shawn for tuning services to prattle away on these points either
but you can then bring other devices in through the dash display though probably with the same restriction of using the AiM support components, but how that makes any more sense than using the Haltech parts or why you’re resisting it isn’t clear to me.
I started off with the OE pcm and now the Adaptronic so that was how it had to be done with relative ease. You have more native options with the Haltech.
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Curious, the Haltech doesn't have a serial input? I'm planning to buy a serial cable and wire into my AEM EUGO wideband gauge and just plug this into my Adaptronic. My Adaptronic wideband sensor reads 0.5 leaner than the AEM which was known accurate on my previous build. Apparently the Adaptronic wideband is junk and this has been seen by a lot of people. Doing this will allow my ECU to target AFR's based on the AEM gauge instead.
I don’t quite understand why you machined the rotor tips to then send them to Chip any more than you buying equipment from and using Shawn for tuning services to prattle away on these points either
but you can then bring other devices in through the dash display though probably with the same restriction of using the AiM support components, but how that makes any more sense than using the Haltech parts or why you’re resisting it isn’t clear to me.
I started off with the OE pcm and now the Adaptronic so that was how it had to be done with relative ease. You have more native options with the Haltech.
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I plan on only having the rotating assembly balanced from Chip, so it was a cost savings thing and since I have access to the equipment and knowledge at work, why wouldn't I take advantage of that? I genuinely am also wanting to learn from this project as much as I can. Granted, I fully intend on getting ahold of Shawn for remote tuning and further assistance once I have everything up and running, as long as he is willing.
For the wiring side, this is definitely a self-inflicting headache I have wanted to undertake for a long time. My personal hobbies outside of cars is mostly diy wiring projects and communications. This will be my biggest undertaking yet though, at least in terms of cost. I also ended up with haltech premium harness for little to nothing extra when I bought my elite 1500, so why not try to use it. I personally really hate the look of the OE fusebox, and don't want to just zip tie it under my dash either. And in reality it can be downsized with the swap.
Curious, the Haltech doesn't have a serial input? I'm planning to buy a serial cable and wire into my AEM EUGO wideband gauge and just plug this into my Adaptronic. My Adaptronic wideband sensor reads 0.5 leaner than the AEM which was known accurate on my previous build. Apparently the Adaptronic wideband is junk and this has been seen by a lot of people. Doing this will allow my ECU to target AFR's based on the AEM gauge instead.
I've wondered this myself, and looked into it once a little while ago. The AEM wideband outputs a Serial as an RS-232 output. The Haltech only accepts SPI inputs. Not all that different communications, but the SPI is synchronous and the RS-232 is asynchronous so it won't work. I Think with the intro of CAN and all its benefits, serial is a thing of the past for Haltech.
it was just my ignorance then and in addition to apologizing I’ll just shut up and let you do your thing then. If you have a question or need help you know how to reach me.
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but I did want to clarify this as I only indicated “Display” with regard to using an AiM solution, when in reality you can just tap in with their Logger solution as well for alternate expansion and integration purposes. You’re still dependent on using the native AiM components for it no different than the Haltech components for that other side of the fence. It does provide alternate choices and solutions rather than being solely dependent on Haltech though
The AiM EVO5 Logger as an example
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LCU-One CAN Wide band Lambda controller LCU-One, with Bosch LSU 4.9 probe, providing all Air/Fuel data and lambda value, allows to perfectly tune the carburetion.
it was just my ignorance then and in addition to apologizing I’ll just shut up and let you do your thing then. If you have a question or need help you know how to reach me.
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No need to apologize, again I appreciate your abrupt honesty on this forum. Don't be afraid to hurt my feelings. That will usually mean either one of us is wrong, but can find info to get common understanding.
Also back to the AiM stuff, can that stuff still send data back to Haltech?
I was juggling the idea today to just go ***** to the wall and get a Haltech PD16. Adds 4 AVI, 4 SPI (total 8 AVI) but also can help tidy things up, with additional data on current usage per channel. That would bring cost savings (I can get the AEM Wideband module with sensor for $123, vs a Haltech $330 + Haltech I/O Expander $402) and apply the savings towards it. Again, touching my nerd nerve so this could be a good solution increase my AVI. On top of that it offers great diagnostic tools with current measurements per channel and display on an IC-7 which I find super cool. Absolutely overkill for what I'm doing, but cool.
it is a bit pricy and I get wanting to walk your own path, but perhaps are underestimating what you can learn from his extensive experience in addition to Haltech familiarity which has a value too …
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it is a bit pricy and I get wanting to walk your own path, but perhaps are underestimating what you can learn from his extensive experience in addition to Haltech familiarity which has a value too …
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Yeah I think this has been up for a while now. He is in the works with his pnp adapter kit (plug into OE Harness and go from there) and that is not posted yet. I have thought about the patched harness before. But this is where, again I am shooting myself in the foot over personal interests of wiring and electronics. One of the bigger goals is to do wire tucking and eliminate the fuse box and ecu box from the engine bay. His service is just to pretty much terminate the stock harness to the haltech (stock coil connectors are shown in the photo, odd), so still this solution would only get me half way there. I'd still be cutting it up and extending a lot of wires. Although I might be able to give him lengths though to take care of relocating it to the passenger foot bay/glove box. Obviously cost more though.
I am probably assuming too much about this though. I will ask him about my specific needs and see what he'd be willing to do. Definitely can't hurt.
To my surprise I ended up having an extremely productive weekend.
Friday night, got to tear down the OE engine harness, salvage out the oil level sensor wiring, the ECC sensor wiring, trans speed sensor and neutral switch wiring, and the alternator connector. Shouldn't need this but figured why not.
Sunday, got up early again and knocked out a lot of our bathroom remodel. Really shooting to finish this up so I can get back to car stuff mid to late this week.
Woke up at 6am today and did a lot of work on our bathroom up until 2pm, when some relatives came over. Being my house is interally and externally all brick, 6in dimensional concrete slabs for floors with a basement (think of a parking garage ceiling) installing a new shower valve, and running all new PEX went way to smoothly but the best part was not a single leak! 0.0
Then around 6pm began cutting down the chassis harness and labelling it. This mostly only pertains to the 4th and 5th connector to the ECU. So far, I have all of the terminated all the connections for:
- Accelerator pedal (pwr, gnd, two sig gnd's, and two sensors)
- Brake Switch
- Clutch Switch
- AC switches, relay and amp
- DBW relay input
- CAN High and Low
- IGN Switch input
- Starter
- Constant Power
Might be missing one or two but that's the gist so far. Also scattered/updated some notes in my excel sheet, which needs a thorough update now.
Oh, also got the remainders to rebuild my block from Atkins. Hoping to get my irons and housings drilled this week for the 1/2 studs, and to reach out to Chip to see about getting my rotating assembly dropped off to him. I do want to ask if its worth buying and bringing in a clutch as well or just the flywheel and counter weight.
I do have a few questions though, which I am sure I can find once I dig around the schematics some more but not up for the task tonight. Not really asking directly to anyone, more of a mental note. But if you have any insights please feel free!
1. The Haltech setup sheet shows a single AC switch input. The rx8 has two. I assume one is for reg and then max AC?
2. There is a discrepancy between assignments for the Cruise switch on the Adaptronic diagrams (the two I have known to me; the initial setup sheet that is shipped with the ecu, and the pinout diagram alone). Instruction sheet shows 5U BLk/Wht (Sig GND) which I assume is incorrect, but the pinout diagram shows 5V Grn/Y (Fuel Pump). I am going to try to confirm with Haltech/Adaptronic to see which is right. Again I assume 5V, especially when 5U is a thicker gauge Blk/Wht wire; pretty obvious its a ground connection.
3. RX8 CAN - Which pins do I need to supply 12V to to power this from the Haltech?
4. What is Constant Power (5J) used for?
This is the "Sense" terminal in the Rx8 alternator connector.
Ah noted thanks, that means this is of no use to me.
So as of last night I am plucking away at the fuse box internal wiring.
Definitely have hit a snag though in terms of testing connections to verify my hand-made schematic. Maybe someone can shine some light on this? Its a extremely simple circuit or so it appears, but I have no idea why it would not light up. Obviously it did before I started this project.
Aside from this, I am making some decent progress of verifying and mapping out used vs useless relays and fuses in the box and finding what I thought earlier that I can definitely downsize this to a more compact unit.
After searching far and wide for a more compact fuse box solution, I am leaning towards a Bussmann's 15400 series rfrm, or two 15300 series rfrm's. I believe the 15400 will fit in the glovebox but if not, two 15300 should. I May have to mount the Haltech (and possibly a pd16) along the trans tunnel on the passenger side or tuck it up away under the dash but that will not be the worst thing. Almost like having a cool gaming PC, I think it would be cool to have them hanging out with the status LEDs flashing. But having the fuse box tidy and accessible is my main goal.
12-12-2022, 02:26 PM
but we’ll see
There is still some stuff that I'm uncertain about so it would be good for any additional eyes for feedback.
