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Quick question. RotaryMachineRx and all. I see you have used the rx8 front cover which I have done as well and that you have used full function engineering fuel rails. Did you use the rx7 rew fuel injector diffusers. I have searched a little on rx7club and found that some use them and some don't. I'm wondering your opinion on this. Thanks.
Hey man, no I used the Rx7 Front cover. I did not use any injector diffusers, just the ID1000/2000 combo with the appropriate lower O-Ring adapter/spacers that comes with the FFE kit. From my understanding the spray pattern of the ID injectors are sufficient enough without the diffusers. The times my idle has been on it seems to hold AFR's and RPM perfectly fine.
Oh...I mixed up your build with Strokercharged95GT 13b-REW Build, sorry my mistake. Anyways. Good to know if you used or not as fuel rails and front covers don't have much to do with it.
Thanks for all the comments, you guys rock. Appreciate the help. I finally have my engine built and now bolting on accessories. I suppose once I get the engine into the car I can do a build thread although at this point nothing I've done is new. My built 2 apex oil pan should be arriving Friday. Those will be some unique pictures.
Brad I replied you a bunch of messages/photos on Facebook where we were talking earlier showing my injectors and rails, should give you some visual on this too
Jesse, Right on... hoping for all the best. Happy Thanksgiving to you and the fam!
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
was wondering about you the other day, hope it all goes well.
Thanks guys! Happy thanksgiving to all you Americans out there!
Hoping the issue is something simple and easily rectified, won't know until the engine is opened up. Hoping to have everything sorted out and hopefully even back together by the new year... but my engine builder (and he will be the first to admit it) is not known for his promptness. For now I guess I'll try to enjoy the empty space in my garage
Ah, ok. So I heard back from manufacturer on my idea for a pump module replacement and it’s good news. Need to double check a few dimensions, but am hoping to move forward on it. It won’t be a cheap solution either, but it’s a quality piece of equipment with the necessary features for performance use.
Did anything pan out with this fuel pump assembly?
Ah, ok. So I heard back from manufacturer on my idea for a pump module replacement and it’s good news. Need to double check a few dimensions, but am hoping to move forward on it. It won’t be a cheap solution either, but it’s a quality piece of equipment with the necessary features for performance use.
Did anything pan out with this fuel pump assembly?
I just took a Radium turge tank with integral FPR, threw the tank way (not permitted in the race rules), and modified the rest of it to mount in place of the OE fuel module. It would probably make more sense just to use the whole surge tank in your situation.
A little info from the engine builder. Car is still at his shop, we haven't 100% decided if the engine will be pulled out yet but here is where I'm at (more text below the 2 videos):
So as you can see oil pressure readings (taken from the remote oil filter pedestal) are much better than measuring from my turbo feed line gauge. Seems to be in an acceptable range for 10w-30 synthetic and light revving/idling. In the second video you'll hear him mention "hot wiring" the computer to keep the fuel pump on. What he means is jump the relay so the pump is continuously priming with the key on. This is because (like I mentioned a few posts ago) my fuel pressure was dropping as soon as the pump stops priming. Sound like this is a pretty common issue with the Walbro 450lph pumps having weak built in check valves. I've seen many cases of the same thing on various different platforms when google searching the issue. For now I'm just going to increase my pump priming from 3s to 6s in Eugene.
Of cource, after burning countless quarts of oil throughout the summer, now that the car is back with the builder he hasn't noticed the oil consumption. I find this very strange but it's now below freezing ambient temps compared to summer time August weather when I was noticing the issue, so maybe that is enough to thicken the oil and prevent it from bypassing any seals . The greatest thing of note mentioned by the builder so far is that he's noticing a lot of fuel in my oil. I have no way of explaining this other than initially (pre-tune) the engine was running so rich it was able to contaminate the oil? If anyone has any more info to explain that situation I'd love to hear it. The theory right now is that between the lighter oil currently in the car, and the fuel contamination that it is thin enough to bypass some of the oil seals.
Anyways, going forward the builder is going to drain the oil and flush my entire oil system to get any residual fuel out of the system. He'll then be refilling with 15w-40 conventional oil and monitoring it again from there. Other closer inspections will be ignition and trigger systems to ensure they are properly running (seemed to be fine based on my diagnosis earlier last year). The builder is also going to have an independent person look at my tuning (which is currently a basic start-up base map that Shawn made for me). I don't expect the current map to be perfect but I don't see it preventing smooth idle and causing the smoking/oil consumption I was experiencing.
As always appreciate any comments or suggestions on the issues I'm seeing. Sooner than later, based on the results of some further diagnosis, we'll be making the decision on if this engine needs to come back out and be opened up.
Damn ...I see your dilema. While I don't have any direct experience of your issues... From what you have said ...it does seem like there is some kind of engine issue present . Opening it up seems like the sensible solution but I have to admit I'd probably just run it till the problem resurfaces. Knowing that the time and cost of opening it up is major and not increased much should other damage be done to bearings and the like by keeping it running.
Damn ...I see your dilema. While I don't have any direct experience of your issues... From what you have said ...it does seem like there is some kind of engine issue present . Opening it up seems like the sensible solution but I have to admit I'd probably just run it till the problem resurfaces. Knowing that the time and cost of opening it up is major and not increased much should other damage be done to bearings and the like by keeping it running.
I have to agree, it does seem like an engine issue to me too, and if the oil consumption is eliminated then yeah I think the engine should be run longer (only has approx 800kms right now) to see if the problem shows it's ugly head again or not. In my mind there are a couple things to find out still before we get to that point. Where is the oil that I've been consuming going? Or better yet, I know its through the engine/exhaust but how and why is it getting into the combustion chamber? Why is there fuel in the oil system? Again I have no idea on this other than if it was literally bypassing side seals and OCR's and getting into the oil path because it was that rich. I'm skeptical of this just because I've seen plenty of times where my Renesis ran in the 10AFR's on the same 10w-30 oil without issue; maybe if early on this engine was running soooo rich that fuel was pooling up, hard to say anymore about that as it's all speculation. If both of those issues are removed, then really there isn't much else wrong... idle seems to be unstable/inconsistent every time the car is started but could just be in need of more time spent on the tune. On another note, my compression numbers (shown in earlier posts) were far from what I would consider good for a rebuilt engine, another factor leading me to think immediately that there is an engine issue. But with the amount of oil I've gone through it's not unreasonable to think that seals could be gunked/stuck up and not properly sealing.
The dilemma (and therefore the hesitation to open it up right away) is this:
1. We open the engine up, find an issue with a seal, bearing, plate lapping issue, etc. Easy fix and warrantable, no question as to what has been causing any of my issues. This is preferable by myself and the builder as its an obvious solution and straight forward fix.
2. We open engine up, find there are no noticeable issues. We are still in the same situation with no new insights to the issues but now I'm on the hook for the rebuild cost.
Nobody (including the builder) wants to waste time pulling and opening up an engine that didn't need it because the problems lie elsewhere. So we'll continue to be diligent in our assessment of everything until we run out of possibilities worth investigating. In my mind, once the oil system has been flushed and refilled with the more viscous oil and we don't see an immediate improvement; I just don't understand how oil could be burning any other way than an internal engine issue. To be honest I've been in that mindset since I first realized the oil consumption issue, but it is only fair to let the builder (who's first time seeing the car run was in November) have a chance to "kick the tires" before straight up point fingers at the engine.
Unfortunately no, the builder only works 2 days/week (he has a full time job as well). Obviously I'd like things to move along faster too but I'm unfortunately stuck at his pace until we figure out these issues or the engine is rebuilt. I know he has some time off from his day job coming up so I'm hoping to make much more progress in the coming few weeks. It's winter here anyways so I wouldn't be driving the car right now; but that's a small solace compared to the feeling of having a properly running car in my own garage waiting for springtime.
Seems like too many issues for it to be something simple.... oil pressure should be the same at both locations. My oil pressure gauge and turbo pressure gauge read the same when the regulator is open all the way. My rotor and Stat bearings are from a junkyard engine.
something ain't right, hope your guy gets on it soon.
Seems like too many issues for it to be something simple.... oil pressure should be the same at both locations. My oil pressure gauge and turbo pressure gauge read the same when the regulator is open all the way. My rotor and Stat bearings are from a junkyard engine.
something ain't right, hope your guy gets on it soon.
Yes I agree with what you are saying about the multiple issues. I didn't explore more into the oil pressure (and made the assumption it was low) based on what you see with the gauge on your turbo; but when I think about it shouldn't the pressure show a bit lower right in front of the turbo like that? A -4 feed line going up to a -10an line draining to the top of the oil pan (stock front turbo drain return) should it be expected to hold the same pressure as between the filter and the block when the return would be similar to venting to atmosphere at the top of the oil pan?
I mean the obvious answer based on Stroker's experience is no, but just trying to think about this theoretically. Is it possible that we are seeing such a difference just based on the different turbo line-ups we are using?
10-07-2020, 10:04 AM
. The greatest thing of note mentioned by the builder so far is that he's noticing a lot of fuel in my oil. I have no way of explaining this other than initially (pre-tune) the engine was running so rich it was able to contaminate the oil? If anyone has any more info to explain that situation I'd love to hear it. The theory right now is that between the lighter oil currently in the car, and the fuel contamination that it is thin enough to bypass some of the oil seals.
