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You had a different, never used new ecu and the same problem existed, so in my mind I might consider that it’s not the ecu. Rather, possibly the engine wiring harness instead, but all that is based off your explanations and assuming the information stated is correct.
My concern is that I didn't play around enough with it, but correct, it didn't seem to change anything driving wise. I will however note that I was seeing a different charge voltage with the spare ECU, but I'm not sure how significant that would even be.
So is it normal to see voltage on the ECU pin that should be grounding the injector?
I'm noticing that I'm seeing voltage on the ECU pin (the pin right on the ecu, not through the harness) on most sensor grounds of between 1.5 and 4V is that normal?
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 04-09-2024 at 10:07 AM.
Appreciate that feedback. When you say ground the ECU directly to the battery.... any idea which pin specifically? The Adaptronic Pinout has many power grounds from the chassis harness on both connectors 4 and 5. Pinout attached.
Also can confirm my ECU is grounded as per the factory ECU. Power grounds are all grounded via the joint connector up by the passenger fender near the washer bottle... so not directly to battery but based on this the ECU was never meant to be grounded directly to the battery (I'm not saying that isn't better, just stating the obvious with a PNP ECU).
Have you addressed the battery grounds and the other chassis ground? The ECU ground is 1 aspect of the entire system. Take the ECU out of the equation and check power from the relays. The multimeter is only a tool to tell you something is wrong all those numbers aren't actually gonna fix the issues.
Have you addressed the battery grounds and the other chassis ground? The ECU ground is 1 aspect of the entire system. Take the ECU out of the equation and check power from the relays. The multimeter is only a tool to tell you something is wrong all those numbers aren't actually gonna fix the issues.
No I'm just referring to my original assessment, the grounds for the injectors inside the ECU are obviously getting some voltage from somewhere is what the multimeter is telling me, and by disconnecting connector 5 it is something obviously related to those circuits.
What I plan to do going forward here is try to ground all my ECU power grounds directly to the battery and see where that gets me (remove JC-01 from fender and run a temp wire to the battery negative terminal). I will also move the ground strap that is currently from the battery negative to the trans somewhere directly to the chassis. I will also move my ground strap from the block to a more direct chassis ground.
I will also need to confirm where all my sensor grounds are currently mounted (I assume there is likely more than one) and make sure they are grounded the chassis (which is likely they already are from the factory).
If I still see this voltage "bleed" into the ECU grounds for the injectors after this, my next step will be to de-pin each of the wires from connector 5 one at a time to see if I can isolate a specific circuit that is causing this "bleed" over.
If this work doesn't produce or indicate anything meaningful.... I'll likely install the new ID1050x injectors, put the car back together and see if the fueling issue is any better when re-tuning with the new injectors.
IF ALL OF THIS FAILS...... I think I won't have much more option than to look at the Adaptronic itself and think about a replacement. As time goes on and the more I hear about Adaptronic, it seems more people are having issues that are solved by a new ECU (Haltech of course being extremely popular at the moment).
Appreciate your guys' input!
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 04-10-2024 at 12:27 PM.
remembering Strokercharged’s own issue with one; the REW RX8 I now own, think I’d try swapping a different one in first before a more expensive ECU swap. As usual, I may have one on the shelf if you want to give it a try, lmk.
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For anyone interested I had a short discussion here with an AEM Electronics Engineer. He has provided me a little more insight and a bit of testing to do.:
I think between revising and nailing down grounding throughout the whole car (I'm doing a lot of digging into star-point grounding at the moment), then performing some more testing, and ultimately giving the new injectors a chance; I'll be able to make a better decision about the ECU itself. I want to ensure I'm doing all that I can to confirm I have a proper system in place before I start throwing money around at new parts (ie Haltech + Harness mods to accommodate); so I'm not taking that lightly.
I bought a new Cosmo thin/intermediate iron plate (used on both Cosmo 13B-RE & 20B-RE) and if it hadn’t have been for me seeing this thread/post, would’ve likely experienced the same problem.
The Cosmo iron plate has two holes; one on each side of the plate near the base of the flanged oil sump fill/breather neck.
According to a buddy on RX7Club, the FC plate only has it on the one rear-facing side. He said it’s plumbed to a pipe in the firewall that goes to a charcoal filter.
^^FC parts diagram …
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
Question for anyone familiar with different variations of the REW (or potentially S4 or S5 engines). I started noticing a minor oil leak once I started introducing boost and driving the car a little harder on this engine. I kept finding a pool of oil on top of my rear housing right above the spark plugs and was under the impression it was maybe a small leak from my oil filter relocation adapter on the rear iron or the oil pressure sensor I have plumbed into it via AN fittings. But not matter now much oil pressure I built up by revving the engine I could never see any damn leaks while I had my head under the hood. I also noticed my catch can vented from my oil fill neck was always completely dry. Well I've found the culprit:
I've also noticed on my spare engine I have in the garage, that the center iron does not have this hole. Is this a variation of the REW that had a breather hole in this location? Or is this iron from a non-REW engine all together?
TIA.
EDIT: So found out this is an iron from a Cosmo 13B/20B. Will compare to my REW center plate I have in the garage once I tear this engine down to see if there is any significant differences.
Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
So did some more homework. It is not a Cosmo plate as mentioned above but is nearly identical apart from 2 differences. The Cosmo primary ports are a LOT taller; and the Cosmo center iron has spots for engine mounts on the side of the iron.
Seems as though some REW irons (likely earlier ones) have a brass nipple in that hole similar to Cosmo/FC center irons for crank case ventilation, and some don’t have a hole/nipple at all.
Glad you caught it, I ended up tapping and plugging the hole in mine since my filler neck is vented anyways. One thing I can say now after I did the rebuild myself is there's never been a single drop of any fluid under the car since!
I've replaced my primary injectors with the ID1050X's and redid all my grounding in the car. Should be ready to give it the first start for this season this weekend to see if any of these changes have made a difference.
Grounding I brought a 2AWG cable up from the battery negative terminal and am using the top of the rear housing as a star point. Everything is essentially grounded back to this point. I also ran a 4AWG from a good chassis spot back to this star point. In the process I spliced the Pin B wiring from my Rywire AEM IGN-1A harness and pulled those all the way back to a sensor ground pin on my ECU (my coils are now wired exactly as the AEM diagram dictates). In the process of all this I also pulled my engine harness out and tested every connector on it and mapped out all the pins to confirm everything was kosher there.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 06-07-2024 at 02:51 PM.
04-08-2024, 02:56 PM
