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There are right angle USB b cables you could use. Not sure the interference protection is any better... It might not be an issue. Will still probably disconnect while driving.
I edited a link to an option I'll likely try in my post above. Once it's tuned I still want to be able to monitor coolant temps, oil pressures, etc from my laptop, it's how I did it all with my Adaptronic.
My concern with yours is that maybe something is not 100% right with your ECU. Overheating just because the PC is plugged in seems strange and tuners should be freaking out on the forums if the laptop is disconnecting on them regularly, especially for any one getting remote tuning done. I haven't seen any posts about either of these two issues (not that I've searched hard either).
There isn't an issue with the ECU. It's being in the engine bay in a plastic box, it simply gets hot from the engine bay, specifically once the car is turned off. If the ECU was in the main cabin it wouldn't be a conversation. Most people install their ECUs behind the dash. There is also a few folks on the Haltech FB page with the same issue.
The disconnecting is because of driving the car on the road and the USB connection not being solid, not because of over heating. Perhaps if the pins were a bit tighter then it wouldn't disconnect.
imo you need to consider a CAN setup for monitoring instead to eliminate a flaky cable plugged directly into the ECU
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My thoughts are here for the future as well, would be simple enough to daisy chain a CAN gauge off of my WB1 controller and route it to the cab..... Ideally if I can get this car FINALLY running the way it is supposed to.... I could stop spending money and time on diagnosis and start spending it on fun things; an IC-7 or UC-10 dash would be an achievable dream of mine but it's not something I can even consider until I'm happy with the the way the car runs. So far I've had many lessons on not holding my breath, but I feel like I now know the issue that has been plaguing me undetected for years, and that was an ignition issue (hopefully due to the ECU, I'm not sure what else it could even be).
FYI for others. Ordered these 90deg Male to Female USB B adapters on amazon and the "right" orientation works perfectly and clears the factory ECU box lid.
Haven't powered the ECU yet but I have my harness fully connected minus the WB1 controller now which is as simple as figuring out where I'm going to mount it and pinning the CAN power and CAN ground wires from my TBS harness to the WB1 cable deutsch connector.
Well my updates haven't been all that exciting lately but harness, ECU, and WB1 are all installed (WB1 is not permanently mounted yet but enough to test things out and hopefully fire the car up soon).
I was able to get the ECU box closed with the Amazon right angle adapter for the PC cable and a bit of Dremel work at the back of the box for better fitment of the sensor pig tails exiting it (these are for Fuel P, Oil P, IAT, Ignition sub-harness, PC cable, and WB1 CAN cable).
Should be set up to restore 12V power to the car next garage session I get and test the ECU/Sensors out. I'll be building a generic "first-start" map to try and get the engine idling, and if all goes well hoping to get a tuning session in before the end of Sept to get a few more drives and shake things down/diagnose before winter sneaks up on me.
09-11-2024, 12:20 PM
