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Apart from the hydramat, nearly identical set-up. If I do happen to run into any fuel issues (shouldn't according to Max, I basically copied his set-up) cutting the bottom off of the rx8 assembly shell and replacing the sock filter with a hydramat set-up wouldn't be difficult to do.
not saying yours won’t work, but the difference is mine has an an externally adjustable, high-flow pressure regulator. I considered setting it up with siphon, but felt that a gutted and modified S1 pump housing with the bypass eliminated, low pressure lift pump that can withstand running dry, and another Hydramat pickup filter in the other saddle pumping fuel over into the main pump saddle was going to serve my needs better in the long run. I reworked the tank fuel system entirely, but some details I’d rather not discuss.
not saying yours won’t work, but the difference is mine has an an externally adjustable, high-flow pressure regulator. I considered setting it up with siphon, but felt that a gutted and modified S1 pump housing with the bypass eliminated, low pressure lift pump that can withstand running dry, and another Hydramat pickup filter in the other saddle pumping fuel over into the main pump saddle was going to serve my needs better in the long run. I reworked the tank fuel system entirely, but some details I’d rather not discuss.
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My external regulator is on the fuel rails in the engine bay and is MAP referenced. But yeah, a second pump on passenger side definitely is the more thorough set-up. I've heard good things about these Radium Jet Pump's though so I guess we'll see how it reacts! Nice thing about the Adaptronic is all the failsafes for ignition cut, won't be AS meticulously watching my AFR gauge like I was on the boosted Renesis and MAF set-up
I also still have my standalone fuel pressure gauge in my dash from before, so I'll be watching fuel pressure in the cab still too, not just on adaptronic.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 04-07-2020 at 01:03 PM.
you can save some room by locating the BOV on the IC discharge end tank rather than on the pipe at the TB. It will both respond and flow better there for smoother and more efficient operation. I’ve suggested it several times, but sheeple are always reluctant to deviate from the herd.
I've been reading a ton on the Howard Coleman site. Something he also recommends and I completely agree with. Uncertain if that's how I'm going to do it though. I know this is silly but I'm still uncertain if I'm going to keep the intercooler with the "M" side out or if I'm going to flip it; I know thats soooo minor but it makes it slightly more simple to flip it around again if the BOV is on the charge pipe.
My bov is on the hot side, you could also use the integrated bov on the turbo?
Yup, I was mainly just talking about plumbing, obviously I could just leave enough slack in the signal line to reach both sides. And decided to keep the SSQV for no reason other than I like it
Apart from the hydramat, nearly identical set-up. If I do happen to run into any fuel issues (shouldn't according to Max, I basically copied his set-up) cutting the bottom off of the rx8 assembly shell and replacing the sock filter with a hydramat set-up wouldn't be difficult to do.
Just a small update since I've been off the forum for a minute. Amidst all of this Covid-19 chaos my wife and I welcomed our first child (baby girl) into the world on April 8th. As you can imagine that took some focus off of the build but it didn't halt it.
The car is up and running and I have about 250kms on the new engine so far (took it for it's first drive on Saturday night). I've been working on the tune myself and feel like I have the vacuum areas pretty tight at cruise. The engine sounds AMAZING! Honestly the BHR midpipe/HKS catback combo has me drooling not to mention the sound of that EFR spooling up (even though I'm not hitting positive pressures) is orgasmic . I've can't seem to get the idle down so for the sake of engine safety and my own sanity I'm planning on hiring Shawn's remote services to help get this tuned and running properly in a more time efficient manner (again time is now a limited resource for me with the newborn). I still would love to learn the process myself but figure after the heavy investment I've spend on this swap it not the right platform for me to tinker with until I know I have a safe running tune from an expert and I want to have it running pretty before the end of the damn summer
Anyways, I will eventually upload some photos and videos of it running but if you're really feeling ansy go check out my instagram with a video of the EFR winding down. My gawd I know everyone's praise for these turbo's but to see and hear these bearings in action is unlike anything I was expecting!
PS. This one's for Team.... despite great advice and my own knowledge of what equals best flow, I did not mount the BOV to the IC tank, it is on my charge pipe in a similar location to where it was in my Greddy kit. I won't get into details as to why I went this route but that's how it is
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 04-28-2020 at 10:59 AM.
Realized I never uploaded any photos since before the charge piping was installed. I don't have any fresh photos as I've been working through some issues preventing the car from running properly, long story short I have revisited my ignition system and decided to make some changes. I don't want to dig too deep into this until my new system is installed and the engine is either running as I'd expect it to or I'm still having an elusive intermittent issue and I need to hear some ideas.
For now enjoy these photos of what I think is just an overall very clean install:
Also a very preliminary video of the car in pre-tuned form. Idle is obviously very high and the smoke is just some spilled coolant soaked into the turbo blanket.
Hey awesome job. I noticed in your last video your traction control and ABS light were on. I thought the Modular adaptronic was suppose to take care of those features?
Hey awesome job. I noticed in your last video your traction control and ABS light were on. I thought the Modular adaptronic was suppose to take care of those features?
Yes sir, and it does. That video was before I had it all set up properly. I was on AUDM settings rather than USDM in the Eugene software. Once I switched that ABS/DSC, cruise, AC, powersteering, etc etc all function the same as stock RX8.
Just a little update.... The car has been sitting for nearly a month now while I wait for a couple parts. Looks like they are scheduled for delivery late this week after being held up in customs since May 24th on a May 19th order date.
Back in May I was experiencing some issues with about 150 miles on the engine while trying to drop the idle rpm to a reasonable 1100rpm. Essentially it seemed as if I was sporadically loosing the front rotor, sometimes it would idle and drive for a while fine, sometimes it would idle for a little bit only, and most times the engine would not even start. See video below of everything idling great and then as I'm stepping out of the car you can hear the engine fall on it's face (front rotor no longer firing).
After some assessment and diagnosis it was noted that the spark on my front rotor was looking sporadic and weak. This is in no way a dig at BHR or their product (don't even go there) but this was on my 10 year old BHR coils/wires which served me excellent for their entire life on my boosted Renesis. After some research I decided to go a different route. I ordered up a Rywire sub-harness and some AEM IGN-1A coils for their well known superiority, especially in this application. After a month of waiting all of my parts finally arrived at the end of June. Got the new coils and sub-harness installed (depinned rx8 harness coil wires from ECU and repinned in the Rywire coil wires). The engine seems to start effortlessly now and idle seemed pretty solid until we noticed some smoking coming from the coils. As you can see from the below pictures my front leading AEM coil began to melt on the back of the coil. This is while the car was idling with some revving in place only, essentially no load on the engine.
I have a new coil on the way and have been trying to assess what could be the cause of this. Right now my main suspects are faulty coil, better grounding required, ECU error.
While I'm waiting on the new coil to arrive I will be running a ground wire from the negative battery terminal (in trunk) back to the block. Currently the battery ground is through the trunk floor and grouned to the chassis. Rx8 Harness and rywire sub harness are both grounded to the rotor housings and the block is grounded to the chassis near the trans tunnel.
Looking for some input and thoughts on any other oversights I may have or wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar? Basically I'm trying to ensure this doesn't happen again to the brand new coil so I can start driving the car again and get my break-in miles completed already. The car has been sitting since mid may still at approx 150 miles.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 07-08-2020 at 01:20 PM.
After some assessment and diagnosis it was noted that the spark on my front rotor was looking sporadic and weak....The engine seems to start effortlessly now and idle seemed pretty solid until we noticed some smoking coming from the coils. ...
I have a new coil on the way and have been trying to assess what could be the cause of this. Right now my main suspects are faulty coil, better grounding required, ECU error.
While I'm waiting on the new coil to arrive I will be running a ground wire from the negative battery terminal (in trunk) back to the block. Currently the battery ground is through the trunk floor and grouned to the chassis. Rx8 Harness and rywire sub harness are both grounded to the rotor housings and the block is grounded to the chassis near the trans tunnel.
Looking for some input and thoughts on any other oversights I may have or wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar? ....
Jesse, I experienced similar ... Feb. 2019. Shortly after rebuilding my engine I'd returned from a drive and while sitting in the car waiting for my AEM data to download I see smoke emanating from the hood. I had the ignition switch in the "on" position, but have since discovered the ignition doesn't have to be "on". Thinking something was faulty in the harness..., and not wanting to deal w/ it; I put the car in the shop to t-shoot and diagnose... Ultimately, see below - they determined it was just an internally shorted coil.
I did take steps to improve the grounding as well. Similarly, my battery is reloc'd to the trunk, and grounded to the chassis there. In the bay I wire brushed the chassis termination point of my coil harness ground, and have had no further issue.
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Jesse, I experienced similar ... Feb. 2019. Shortly after rebuilding my engine I'd returned from a drive and while sitting in the car waiting for my AEM data to download I see smoke emanating from the hood. I had the ignition switch in the "on" position, but have since discovered the ignition doesn't have to be "on". Thinking something was faulty in the harness..., and not wanting to deal w/ it; I put the car in the shop to t-shoot and diagnose... Ultimately, see below - they determined it was just an internally shorted coil.
I did take steps to improve the grounding as well. Similarly, my battery is reloc'd to the trunk, and grounded to the chassis there. In the bay I wire brushed the chassis termination point of my coil harness ground, and have had no further issue.
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Appreciate the response; that is promising, I really really hope it is just an internal coil fault since the new one is on the way. My engine installer who did all the electrical is telling me that he is 100% confident that grounding isn't the issue. I'm still getting him to run the ground to the engine block as it was recommended to me by Shawn who I bought the ECU from; I figure between revised grounding and the new coil, if it is to happen again then it's pretty clear that the issue could only be caused by a very small amount of things, the ECU being a strong candidate.
well several things; grounding is critical on these coils. I would think rywire would have given you specific instructions to address it properly, but if you deviated from that it would be a place to start. So let us know what you did there.
The biggest mistake people make is they think they’re all just grounds so group them together on a single ground point; fail, fail, fail (3 different ground points bundled together = 3 fails )
Another thing to check is where your coils came from because there are a bunch of faux far-east scam versions put there with junk internals. Not saying that’s the case here, but they’re out there.
04-07-2020, 12:08 PM
. I've can't seem to get the idle down so for the sake of engine safety and my own sanity I'm planning on hiring Shawn's remote services to help get this tuned and running properly in a more time efficient manner (again time is now a limited resource for me with the newborn). I still would love to learn the process myself but figure after the heavy investment I've spend on this swap it not the right platform for me to tinker with until I know I have a safe running tune from an expert and I want to have it running pretty before the end of the damn summer 
Jking... enjoy that baby girl, ...and the car as you can. 
I had the ignition switch in the "on" position, but have since discovered the ignition doesn't have to be "on". Thinking something was faulty in the harness..., and not wanting to deal w/ it; I put the car in the shop to t-shoot and diagnose... Ultimately, see below - they determined it was just an internally shorted coil.
