Minc REW Build
#226
I need to come up with a custom alternator mount to place it on the upper driver side to allow the e-water pump lines as you have it. I talked to Logan at Defined Autoworks and he offered to build the mount if I sent him stack/front pulley setup. I was caught up on a custom pulley mount for the e-shaft and just haven’t gotten back to him yet.
Mine has some special race setup considerations that I’ll spare the details on, but nobody readily offers an REW side type alternator mount and mine won’t have an AC compressor either. So a single belt loop with a pivoting alternator for tension is the jist of it. I talked to JDL about a custom mount several times, but gave up after it never moving forward. Several other projects there as well. Not going to knock them over it though.
The typical alternator setup is pinned for adjustment. I don’t see that as any issue.
.
Mine has some special race setup considerations that I’ll spare the details on, but nobody readily offers an REW side type alternator mount and mine won’t have an AC compressor either. So a single belt loop with a pivoting alternator for tension is the jist of it. I talked to JDL about a custom mount several times, but gave up after it never moving forward. Several other projects there as well. Not going to knock them over it though.
The typical alternator setup is pinned for adjustment. I don’t see that as any issue.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 09-11-2024 at 06:48 PM.
#227
I need to come up with a custom alternator mount to place it on the upper driver side to allow the e-water pump lines as you have it. I talked to Logan at Defined Autoworks and he offered to build the mount if I sent him stack/front pulley setup. I was caught up on a custom pulley mount for the e-shaft and just haven’t gotten back to him yet.
Mine has some special race setup considerations that I’ll spare the details on, but nobody readily offers an REW side type alternator mount and mine won’t have an AC compressor either. So a single belt loop with a pivoting alternator for tension is the jist of it. I talked to JDL about a custom mount several times, but gave up after it never moving forward. Several other projects there as well. Not going to knock them over it though.
The typical alternator setup is pinned for adjustment. I don’t see that as any issue.
.
Mine has some special race setup considerations that I’ll spare the details on, but nobody readily offers an REW side type alternator mount and mine won’t have an AC compressor either. So a single belt loop with a pivoting alternator for tension is the jist of it. I talked to JDL about a custom mount several times, but gave up after it never moving forward. Several other projects there as well. Not going to knock them over it though.
The typical alternator setup is pinned for adjustment. I don’t see that as any issue.
.
I am going to route my coolant lines up to the passenger side fender. Going past the windshield washer bottle through the fender and down to the rear of the car. (thinking still in progress)
#228
Dropped the engine out this weekend, not much else. I did test tightening down the alt more using just the lower "pin" bolt. It is probably tight enough to not need an upper mount.
The following users liked this post:
RotaryMachineRx (09-16-2024)
#229
I need to come up with a custom alternator mount to place it on the upper driver side to allow the e-water pump lines as you have it. I talked to Logan at Defined Autoworks and he offered to build the mount if I sent him stack/front pulley setup. I was caught up on a custom pulley mount for the e-shaft and just haven’t gotten back to him yet.
Mine has some special race setup considerations that I’ll spare the details on, but nobody readily offers an REW side type alternator mount and mine won’t have an AC compressor either. So a single belt loop with a pivoting alternator for tension is the jist of it. I talked to JDL about a custom mount several times, but gave up after it never moving forward. Several other projects there as well. Not going to knock them over it though.
The typical alternator setup is pinned for adjustment. I don’t see that as any issue.
.
Mine has some special race setup considerations that I’ll spare the details on, but nobody readily offers an REW side type alternator mount and mine won’t have an AC compressor either. So a single belt loop with a pivoting alternator for tension is the jist of it. I talked to JDL about a custom mount several times, but gave up after it never moving forward. Several other projects there as well. Not going to knock them over it though.
The typical alternator setup is pinned for adjustment. I don’t see that as any issue.
.
https://jdlmfg.com/products/side-mou...rnator-bracket
#230
I really feel that there are ways to get the alternator or AC closer to the block than the way JDL did it..... not to mention in my case still needing an alternator top mount.
My brother just got a new house and is working on moving his small business. In the future, he may be able to manufacture and sell my parts. I am going to start making a list of potential fab parts that others may want to do the swap in my spreadsheet. Link to spreadsheet: HERE
My brother just got a new house and is working on moving his small business. In the future, he may be able to manufacture and sell my parts. I am going to start making a list of potential fab parts that others may want to do the swap in my spreadsheet. Link to spreadsheet: HERE
#232
I really feel that there are ways to get the alternator or AC closer to the block than the way JDL did it..... not to mention in my case still needing an alternator top mount.
My brother just got a new house and is working on moving his small business. In the future, he may be able to manufacture and sell my parts. I am going to start making a list of potential fab parts that others may want to do the swap in my spreadsheet. Link to spreadsheet: HERE
My brother just got a new house and is working on moving his small business. In the future, he may be able to manufacture and sell my parts. I am going to start making a list of potential fab parts that others may want to do the swap in my spreadsheet. Link to spreadsheet: HERE
#233
In regards to the AC bracket from JDL I went to a machine shop and had the end to the block down about a quarter inch. The steering knuckle would tap. I could not fit on the AC lines otherwise, its extremely tight. I would suggest the same and mill the AC as close to the engine as possible.
Part of his issue was his choice of hardware. The hex heads are really tall. Not to mention mine are already showing rust D:
#234
Threw the turbo on. Im questioning what to do with the heater core coolant tube under the oil feed. The REW one is straight and points directly at the firewall. Blocking the rx8 clutch hardline position. Contemplating either cutting and welding an rx8 bent tube on, or completely removing and doing some barb fitting.
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Warrior777 (10-03-2024)
#235
Minc you'll have to forgive me, I've scrolled back a handful of pages and between keeping my head above water on my own project and following a handful of others I can't always keep the details straight; but this is an EFR8374 and this is the same manifold that you had test fitted with the orange 3D printed version?
I think you've perfectly nailed the fitment of this turbo/manifold combo; I'm looking forward to seeing it back in the car with a filter, oil drain, and downpipe routed and connected. If in the future someone wanted to test this manifold out on with their Banzai subframe/engine mounts and an excessive LIM, how difficult would it be to obtain your 3D printed part, and further to that, an actual casted manifold? Feel free to DM me, I'd love to just chat about that and look at what my options are as I would like to replace my 'not so pretty' manifold in the future.
I think you've perfectly nailed the fitment of this turbo/manifold combo; I'm looking forward to seeing it back in the car with a filter, oil drain, and downpipe routed and connected. If in the future someone wanted to test this manifold out on with their Banzai subframe/engine mounts and an excessive LIM, how difficult would it be to obtain your 3D printed part, and further to that, an actual casted manifold? Feel free to DM me, I'd love to just chat about that and look at what my options are as I would like to replace my 'not so pretty' manifold in the future.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 10-02-2024 at 10:01 AM.
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Warrior777 (10-03-2024)
#236
Threw the turbo on. Im questioning what to do with the heater core coolant tube under the oil feed. The REW one is straight and points directly at the firewall. Blocking the rx8 clutch hardline position. Contemplating either cutting and welding an rx8 bent tube on, or completely removing and doing some barb fitting.
#237
Minc you'll have to forgive me, I've scrolled back a handful of pages and between keeping my head above water on my own project and following a handful of others I can't always keep the details straight; but this is an EFR8374 and this is the same manifold that you had test fitted with the orange 3D printed version?
I think you've perfectly nailed the fitment of this turbo/manifold combo; I'm looking forward to seeing it back in the car with a filter, oil drain, and downpipe routed and connected. If in the future someone wanted to test this manifold out on with their Banzai subframe/engine mounts and an excessive LIM, how difficult would it be to obtain your 3D printed part, and further to that, an actual casted manifold? Feel free to DM me, I'd love to just chat about that and look at what my options are as I would like to replace my 'not so pretty' manifold in the future.
I think you've perfectly nailed the fitment of this turbo/manifold combo; I'm looking forward to seeing it back in the car with a filter, oil drain, and downpipe routed and connected. If in the future someone wanted to test this manifold out on with their Banzai subframe/engine mounts and an excessive LIM, how difficult would it be to obtain your 3D printed part, and further to that, an actual casted manifold? Feel free to DM me, I'd love to just chat about that and look at what my options are as I would like to replace my 'not so pretty' manifold in the future.
My manifold wasn't DMLS printed, it was inkjet printed and then sintered separately. I am no expert in the metal/materials side of metal printing, however it was explained to me that DMLS printing ends up creating more brittle parts with imperfections. How brittle, I am not entirely sure if it would affect our performance of the part, but others have already been making manifolds and printing parts for use on rotaries through this method. Might be able to check in with them on the Rx7 forum.
Considerations:
- Engine mounting (angle Up/down, angle Left/Right, height, Forward or rearward?) I had centered my engine left and right, then rearward to the stock REN position for driveshaft engagement, Then angled it to have a flat oil pan with respect to the ground.
- Lower intake manifold (I used CX which comes out pretty far compared to the other aftermarket FD options) Ideally the Rx8 wants a forward leaning LIM, but that doesn't exist.
- Turbo clocking (oil drain needs of the EFR made me have to make a new WG actuator bracket)
- Added gasket thicknesses
My heatercore plumbing is only an issue since my the outlet on the engine is close to the firewall and also blocks the clutch line disconnect on the trans (maybe not even needed? Can the softline go straight to the slave?)
The following 2 users liked this post by MincVinyl:
RotaryMachineRx (10-02-2024),
Warrior777 (10-03-2024)
#238
I was able to modify the rx7 bracket or flip it 180 degrees or maybe both and fit the clutch line which barely gives me enough space for the heater line. I have not installed the heater hose yet but it’s very tight down there on my build as well. That manifold will likely be better than mine. It has been very difficult to get my oil drain line with enough angle to drain properly since my turbo sits so low. My turbo is forward leaning by about 13 degrees and 5 degrees side to side. Hopefully It will work out but I'm not too hopeful. I have a meeting in a few minutes with Shawn to discuss the connections of his custom engine harness that I purchased. I'm getting close to first start, really it should be coming in a couple of weeks.
Last edited by Warrior777; 10-03-2024 at 12:34 PM.
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RotaryMachineRx (10-04-2024)
#239
I re-used one of the factory Rx8 heater hoses and moved it on to that nipple, here a pic of the one I used (it's the one that has the orifice inside the hose on the factory system) it bends and moves away from that area. These are the best photos I could find of that area:
#240
I had that heater core hose on the rear iron blow up on the Stroker car due to the straight nipple straining the RX8 hose too much. My intention was to take the nipple out on the new engines and tap the iron for an AN-ORB fitting. On the Renesis I never had any issue getting the elbow-nipple out of the iron. Not so with the straight nipple on a new REW iron. I tore the nipple up pretty good trying to twist it out; it won’t budge at all. The next step will be putting a torch to the nipple and see if heating it up helps. Otherwise it may require cutting the nipple off flush then drilling and tapping it. There’s not a lot of material to work with there. It’s a touchy situation to try and do it this way.
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#241
I think cutting it out and tapping the iron may be the best solution. Pulling the tube proved difficult, so we opted to try and weld the rx8 tube to the straight tube. We spent all weekend on this and think the galvanized metal really messed with us.
#243
That orifice in the Rx8 factory location is actually just off the outlet of the heater core. My understanding is that it restricts flow through the heater core, otherwise the heater core gets too much. I'm not sure on how this actually effects the HVAC performance, but my understanding is that you can hear it in the cab without the orifice at high RPMs. Not sure if this is a factor on the REW or not since most don't rev past 8000rpm anyways.
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Warrior777 (10-10-2024)
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