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I use my washer sprayer so much I could never remove it. Mainly from undiagnosed medical issues I get vertigo when my vision is obstructed.
Now this may be a hot take, but almost all catch cans I see are stupid expensive for no reason. Even though they are just a can with steel wool packed in. I dont see much of a difference between lets say the Evil energy Catch can(~$30) and the Vibrant(~$300). I also dont know why you wouldn't use a copper mesh instead to rapidly cool and condense the oil mist for collection, you can get a 5x30ft roll for 10$. I have a couple RV vac pumps I could cut apart one of their oil mist filters, but I am pretty sure they are just metal mesh with a sponge in between.
BTW my current plan for the oil fill neck is to just make a cap plate with a bung on the end to go to a catch can, then to precompressor(vac manifold).
I use my washer sprayer so much I could never remove it. Mainly from undiagnosed medical issues I get vertigo when my vision is obstructed.
Now this may be a hot take, but almost all catch cans I see are stupid expensive for no reason. Even though they are just a can with steel wool packed in. I dont see much of a difference between lets say the Evil energy Catch can(~$30) and the Vibrant(~$300). I also dont know why you wouldn't use a copper mesh instead to rapidly cool and condense the oil mist for collection, you can get a 5x30ft roll for 10$. I have a couple RV vac pumps I could cut apart one of their oil mist filters, but I am pretty sure they are just metal mesh with a sponge in between.
BTW my current plan for the oil fill neck is to just make a cap plate with a bung on the end to go to a catch can, then to precompressor(vac manifold).
Yes, I refuse to pay 300 bucks, although I've probably spent close to 75 dollars making my aluminum rotor tank function as an air oil separator and catch can. Where can I get this copper mesh?
Yes, I refuse to pay 300 bucks, although I've probably spent close to 75 dollars making my aluminum rotor tank function as an air oil separator and catch can. Where can I get this copper mesh?
There's rolls of copper mesh on amazon, people use for gardening apparently.
Id assume doing copper mesh in an aluminum tank that you place in a colder section of the engine bay would help condense any contaminants. I've never had oil in the intake issues....except for one time in highschool where we dropped the engine and put it back without draining the oil.....then filled it again lmao.
The Vibrant catch can I have was gifted to me, otherwise my current can is a $30 can with some mesh in it. Brad you can also find copper mesh on amazon if you search for soldering iron tip cleaning tools.
The best system I've seen for venting that I know eliminated filling of the catch can (particularly during track events) is from a local friend of mine (Aaron Hall Kazak on FB). He has the oil fill neck vented to a catch can, as well as the rear turbo drain block off plate drilled and tapped for an AN fitting and he vents this to the catch can as well. Both of these vents enter the catch can from the bottom. Venting both sides of the engine really prevents the majority of the crank case oil from burping up into the catch can; when the oil sloshes to one side and starts to ride up the vent, the crank case pressure still has another dry/unobstructed path to go out the other side of the engine rather than trying to force it's way up through the oil filled vent, essentially carrying that oil with it. Any oil that does make it all the way up to the catch can can then drain it's way back to the sump because of the vent lines being on the bottom of the catch can. I believe he then vents the catch can to an Air-Oil separator but this is a remnant from when he only had the fill neck vented. Since venting both sides of the engine, and having the vent lines enter the bottom of his catch can, the Air-Oil separator as been dry.
I plan on venting both sides of the engine like this eventually, the Vibrant has two nice big -10AN inlets on it (although not on the bottom); but I don't suspect I'll be collecting as much oil has Aaron as mine is majority street car and not experiencing those regular high G corners. Prior to venting both sides of the engine Aaron was having to exit the track early to dump his catch can; since making that change he can now go all day without thinking about it.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 08-29-2024 at 05:46 PM.
The Vibrant catch can I have was gifted to me, otherwise my current can is a $30 can with some mesh in it. Brad you can also find copper mesh on amazon if you search for soldering iron tip cleaning tools.
The best system I've seen for venting that I know eliminated filling of the catch can (particularly during track events) is from a local friend of mine (Aaron Hall Kazak on FB). He has the oil fill neck vented to a catch can, as well as the rear turbo drain block off plate drilled and tapped for an AN fitting and he vents this to the catch can as well. Both of these vents enter the catch can from the bottom. Venting both sides of the engine really prevents the majority of the crank case oil from burping up into the catch can; when the oil sloshes to one side and starts to ride up the vent, the crank case pressure still has another dry/unobstructed path to go out the other side of the engine rather than trying to force it's way up through the oil filled vent, essentially carrying that oil with it. Any oil that does make it all the way up to the catch can can then drain it's way back to the sump because of the vent lines being on the bottom of the catch can. I believe he then vents the catch can to an Air-Oil separator but this is a remnant from when he only had the fill neck vented. Since venting both sides of the engine, and having the vent lines enter the bottom of his catch can, the Air-Oil separator as been dry.
I plan on venting both sides of the engine like this eventually, the Vibrant has two nice big -10AN inlets on it (although not on the bottom); but I don't suspect I'll be collecting as much oil has Aaron as mine is majority street car and not experiencing those regular high G corners. Prior to venting both sides of the engine Aaron was having to exit the track early to dump his catch can; since making that change he can now go all day without thinking about it.
I'd argue it would be better to not have the tubes on the bottom. As you are catching all kinds of vapors not just oil. I'm sure to a degree you will catch water, fuel, additives, oil, etc. Where without a catch can these would just go out the exhaust of the engine. With the catch can draining back to the engine, these contaminates would just sit and be recycled back into the engine. How much would it really matter? idk. One of my friends just put a drain valve on the bottom of his can, When pumping up gas he just drains it out and tosses it.
The Vibrant catch can I have was gifted to me, otherwise my current can is a $30 can with some mesh in it. Brad you can also find copper mesh on amazon if you search for soldering iron tip cleaning tools.
The best system I've seen for venting that I know eliminated filling of the catch can (particularly during track events) is from a local friend of mine (Aaron Hall Kazak on FB). He has the oil fill neck vented to a catch can, as well as the rear turbo drain block off plate drilled and tapped for an AN fitting and he vents this to the catch can as well. Both of these vents enter the catch can from the bottom. Venting both sides of the engine really prevents the majority of the crank case oil from burping up into the catch can; when the oil sloshes to one side and starts to ride up the vent, the crank case pressure still has another dry/unobstructed path to go out the other side of the engine rather than trying to force it's way up through the oil filled vent, essentially carrying that oil with it. Any oil that does make it all the way up to the catch can can then drain it's way back to the sump because of the vent lines being on the bottom of the catch can. I believe he then vents the catch can to an Air-Oil separator but this is a remnant from when he only had the fill neck vented. Since venting both sides of the engine, and having the vent lines enter the bottom of his catch can, the Air-Oil separator as been dry.
I plan on venting both sides of the engine like this eventually, the Vibrant has two nice big -10AN inlets on it (although not on the bottom); but I don't suspect I'll be collecting as much oil has Aaron as mine is majority street car and not experiencing those regular high G corners. Prior to venting both sides of the engine Aaron was having to exit the track early to dump his catch can; since making that change he can now go all day without thinking about it.
I have spoken with Aaron about it a little. I was hoping he would chime in when I think you tagged him on my FB post. Here is the detail he gave me.
I'd assume he has a baffle gasket plate for the oil pan to prevent upwards sloshing on corners. Crazy if it is all from oil mist he is catching. I wonder how oil pan temps play into your catch rate. Would want to be sure that he isn't just getting slosh and suck up the tubes. The drain/recirc oil catch seems ideal for track, assuming you will be doing oil changes after. However for street I'm still concerned with keeping and building up contaminates in the oil instead of just catching them or sucking them through the intake like stock.
Strange again, radium also doesnt use copper, they just use stainless wool. (I shot them an email, so we shall see what they say)
Drilled the brake booster hole. (2in hole). AFR gauge sits happily in the glove box. Waiting on USB mini to connect the adaptronic to the laptop in the car. Then to grommet it.
Made a temporary oil fill/vac block off plate. I would like to make a proper tube for filling in the future if I can find room.
Started machining/welding up parts of the UIM. I found a good spot where the Rx8 evap purge solenoid will sit right next to the vac ports. So I wired back in the solenoid.
Picked up one of those evil energy catch cans and swapped out the stainless mesh for copper mesh 4"x40". Total of 40$. I will see how it does on the turbo daily.
Machined down the turbo hardware, and port matched the manifold to the turbo.
I may be able to do the fuel lines if they show up in time. Otherwise the next steps will involve taking the engine back out.
Note that the bolt holes are not centered on the fill hole. Which is why the barb ended up off center of the piece.
One thing I am questioning is whether I should move the engine forward about half an inch to an inch. This is mainly to move away from the firewall. My biggest concern is the driveshaft engagement being shortened. Seems like the rule of thumb is to have 1.5x the diameter of spline engagement. Ill have to check to see where we sit on this.
Currently I am located such that I match the stock rx8 PPF and driveshaft engagement.
Here's some of the mods to the upper intake. Currently working on opening up the primary to be more inline with the intake elbow (rx8 throttlebody size) The last image shows where I am putting the Rx8 purge solenoid along with the IAT and IMAP sensors.
I mainly wanted to favor flow into the primaries. Part of me would like to get another upper intake at one point to try making the actuators work to close off the secondary runners.
More pictures. Basically getting some mental images of everything before we take it all back out.
Also I measured the driveshaft 1.5" diameter shaft with 3" of engagement. So there may be some room to slide the engine forward. Might depend more on my turbo location actually... but we are soon to find out.
not sure what I’m looking at there, is it a Renesis trigger wheel and AC pulley with an REW front cover?
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I am running the 36-1 FD FFE Hall trigger kit on the REW front cover.
I have not gotten to the pulleys yet, currently that is one of the REN pulley hubs. I wish I had not gone with the JDL AC mount and just made my own tbh, as things dont seem to line up very well. In the coming weeks I will be pulling the engine and plan to do the pulleys when everything is out of the car and easier to play with.
I am running the 36-1 FD FFE Hall trigger kit on the REW front cover.
I have not gotten to the pulleys yet, currently that is one of the REN pulley hubs. I wish I had not gone with the JDL AC mount and just made my own tbh, as things dont seem to line up very well. In the coming weeks I will be pulling the engine and plan to do the pulleys when everything is out of the car and easier to play with.
I agree with the jdl AC mount being poorly fabbed but I have my pulleys lines up nicely. You may not need to redo the whole setup.
Obviously I don't quite understand what the solenoid does. Thanks for the explanation. With the swap we are doing I live in a state of constant worry that I've missed something or done something completely wrong out of ignorance and that it will result in utter failure. Oddly enough, I don't seem to have a problem ignoring this, occasional I will freak out when I read something I don't understand or I think is new, then realize I just need to research the topic.
I suppose the most likely scenario is that I fail to tighten something, install it correctly or assemble it correctly that will be the cause. I do plan to test the fuel symptoms, coolant systems and oil systems before starting the car and check I've tightened everything down a few times.
You guys have helped me with this project so much, Thanks.
I agree with the jdl AC mount being poorly fabbed but I have my pulleys lines up nicely. You may not need to redo the whole setup.
I think it will be usable, but jdl's products were very clearly designed around a one off engine mount setup. Which he has altered some designs to better fit things like the nicon mount or the cxracing mount. The alternator in this config is only pinned in one position.... so I have to fab up some sort of upper mounting bracket for it.
Another one was his intank surge tank. With two fuel pumps there is maybe a second or two of fuel thatd be in the open top tank. I discarded the tank and just used the hanger with fuel mats. With the tank if fuel was that low, after your 1-2 sec of tank fuel, the only way to pull in more fuel would be through the small dime sized hole in the bottom of the surge tank.
-------- @Warrior777 I chose to just keep the solenoid because it was 5$ and would give me peace of mind when it comes to building up fuel vapors in the tank or under the car. The ideal route would probably be to get rid of the line and charcoal filter, then plumb a antiroll vent for the gas tank somewhere above the saddletank away from the exhaust flames or bottoming out sparks.
Against better judgement I just have the alternator pinned at the bottom and it seems to be holding fine after about 200 miles. I do still plan on a mount for the top of the alternator eventually. The surge tank I have 3 pumps. The OEM pump is my lift pump which fills the tank and pulls from the saddle and 2 460s. Seems to be ok but I have no idea as I have not done any power WOT pulls at all.
Against better judgement I just have the alternator pinned at the bottom and it seems to be holding fine after about 200 miles. I do still plan on a mount for the top of the alternator eventually. The surge tank I have 3 pumps. The OEM pump is my lift pump which fills the tank and pulls from the saddle and 2 460s. Seems to be ok but I have no idea as I have not done any power WOT pulls at all.
Id think leaning all the way over like mine, if it were to rotate upwards it should gain tension......so the belt shouldnt fall off. Id just rather have it static to the engine. Maybe it bouncing and pulling the belt tighter can hurt the belt. Or tug the Eshaft?
Id think leaning all the way over like mine, if it were to rotate upwards it should gain tension......so the belt shouldnt fall off. Id just rather have it static to the engine. Maybe it bouncing and pulling the belt tighter can hurt the belt. Or tug the Eshaft?
So. What I have done is used the petite racing and I have the tension 'reversed' where the pulley pushes down.
08-28-2024 | 08:50 AM
