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lol. I would buy an american brand for more money, but it would also likely be made in China.... There really is no winning... I guess i'd rather give those bastards $38 instead of $100....
40-100 mph in 2nd and 3rd gear.
Boost Pressure 26-27 psi
Leading timing 10-13, 10 split
45% Ethanol
6,200 cc/min total fuel injection at 7,800 and 27 psi (85% of injector capacity)
IAT 100-138 F
AFR 10.8-11.6:1
Acceleration from 5,700-7,200 was about 11.0 MPH/S with a passenger
No knock, car was smooth
New Coolant reservoir works and no leaks
Alright now that everything is working again, time to tear it apart and upgrade. I just purchased the 80mm 1.0 AR turbine, Marmon to 3.5 vband, and a bunch of 304 stainless tubing, bends, pie cuts, etc. I will buy the supercore (likely 369) when everything is ready.
Going to get started on the down-pipe first, then eventually the mid-pipe which currently has points that neck down to 2.75". Then I just may connect it to my true 3" cat-back exhaust and HKS hi-power muffler. I can always upgrade the last 5 feet to 3.5 in the future.
Thinking about maybe two 3.5 resonators at the factory locations and another one between the end of the transmission to the rear end?
Vibrant makes a decent $100 resonator with stainless steel packing, any one have any suggestions for resonators that are limited in size and cost?
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 04-27-2020 at 10:09 AM.
not really cost so much, but no packing to go bad and they can make you just one rather than two. I had one made in 4”, it was basically a single Vette side pipe baffle about 24” long that I put in a 4” tube with transition cones on the end.
Got the old turbo and down-pipe off. Started mocking up the new turbine and 3.5" tubing. All the 304 stuff from Ace Race Parts looks fantastic.
I'm going to have to start removing some metal from the inner frame rail area.so the pipe is not right up against the LIM.
Plan is to just tack up the whole mock up with 308 wire and take it to a shop for all the finish welds. I don't want to put too much heat or something in and make the metal crack prone.
16 Ga with a good back purge should be fine. The issue isn’t really the weld heat. Stainless steel has to gas back purged on the inside with a full penetration weld. Most people don't have that setup in their garage or skill level.
16 Ga with a good back purge should be fine. The issue isn’t really the weld heat. Stainless steel has to gas back purged on the inside with a full penetration weld. Most people don't have that setup in their garage or skill level.
Definitely no skill running welds with stainless. I do have trimix and the correct wire, but I do not want to **** up $300 in tubing.
Once the downpipe turns horizontal with the ground, I think I should put a small flex section in to keep it stress free and hope to avoid cracking. Agree?
as long as you have them up in the OE cat area besides the transmission, because fitment will be an issue anywhere else. You’d be best served to put up a heat shield between them and the trans or wrap them in something to help minimize radiant heat. Otherwise it’s going to frying the trans internals & oil.
That resonator is a bit odd being a straight thru design without any packing though. Seems like they’d possibly be echoing/droning without the muffler that goes with it. The resonator/muffler combo would be like to the 3” midpipe that Scott had previously sold for the NA RX8, but 3.5” for yours. People liked the sound level & tone, but he had the muffler back between the two chassis braces behind the trans and it’d bang around there. Which nobody liked that on a street car.
If you can get them both in beside the trans though that’d be my recommendation. Then later with a 3.5” rear muffler would probably be pretty reasonable. I doubt another resonator is needed or will help. I don’t see that as any advantage over the spiralflo setup either.
Got the down-pipe tacked up from the turbine to about right where the exhaust turns rearward. Still waiting on a 3.5" bellow and 3.5 resonator to figure exactly how I will merge the down-pipe into the mid-pipe.
Ended up just going with the vibrant 3.5" resonator because its a 5" case and the 6" case of the RB resonator may have just been a little too tight for the factory cat location.
With the down-pipe in the current location, I am about 3/8" from the frame rail and about 1" from the LIM. The down-pipe is also high enough near the marmon flange so I can run all my water lines under it. I also mounted it up as high as I can to give a nice gap from the turbo manifold to make a recirculate gate easier. Spent about 30 mins trying to figure out the best location.
not sure why, the HJS race cat I was previously using was more than 6” OD (edit: my bad memory; was 5.66”, but had plenty of clearance for 6”). I’m not a big fan of Vibrant for a rotary exhaust, but maybe it’ll be ok with a turbo damping the pulsing.
I originally had a 6” OD muffler back between the two chassis cross-braces and that didn’t work out so well on a lowered car with good travel. It would rub on the pavement under full suspension compression. The cat converter area has a lot more depth and width though.
Well if the vibrant resonator looses its packing or the system gets loud, I can switch over to something bigger in the future.
After looking at a 1000 different mufflers, I have settled on going with a Borla 40086 to run near the back of the trans. Case is 5" in diameter and 15" long (16" was about the max that would fit in there) Its 304 stainless and only $140.
Also ordered the 369sxe super-core.
So I will have 369SXE with 1.0 AR 80mm turbine - 3.5" 304 stainless down-pipe - Vibrant 17970 (3.5") resonator - Borla 40086 (3.5") muffler - Vibrant 1795 Resonator (3.0") - HKS Hi-power (3.0"). All said and done and the exhaust will go through about 5 feet total of resonators and mufflers.
I will worry about recirculating the wastegate sometime else. Hopefully have it all mocked up by next weekend,
I'm thinking about not running a flex pipe at the end of the down-pipe because it will make everything just a bit too long. I wouldn't think I would have any cracking issues as the motor mounts and all the exhaust hangers are on bushings and nothing is hard mounted.
Down pipe is pretty much mocked up. Was able to get it all to fit perfectly with 3 45's, 2 flanges, a 7.5 degree pie cut, and a 18" piece of straight tubing. I am starting on the mid-pipe stuff, the big resonator takes up the majority of the cat space. I now just have to cross over and get the 1st muffler mocked up. The exhaust sits about 0.75"-1-inch above the banzai mount so if the exhaust hits it means I have already hit the motor mount, oil pan, etc.
Still need to ground down some of the welds and get ready for finishing.
Here is a nice shot from the back of the car that shows all 4 resonators/mufflers with everything mocked up. I decided to just weld everything myself since its good practice, and why pay somebody for the fun?
I have about 70% of the welds done, but I ran out of Trimix gas. I will pick some more up today and should have everything welded in the next few days. Should have the car running by the weekend.
Even though I still have the last 6 feet of the exhaust at 3.0", this should flow 2x better than my last exhaust (at the mid-pipe and flanges, the piping would neck down to 65 mm or so) and now i'm at 88mm from the turbine back to the fuel tanks.
The 3.5" Borla muffler is about 4.5" off the ground, but will move up to 5" with the flex in the rubber hangers. This should be good enough.
Can't wait to hear how quiet/loud this all ends up being.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 05-18-2020 at 06:36 AM.
Great job on the welding. I'm going to be learning that soon for my swap. Eventually, I post a thread here but waiting until I have all the parts. Hope to build the engine later this summer.
Make sure to post up a sound clip of the exhaust, I'm interested in hearing it.
Last edited by Warrior777; 05-19-2020 at 04:31 PM.
Fired up the car last night. Overall, the car may be slightly quieter by maybe a few decibels. Definitely not quiet by any means.
With the exhaust silencer in, it seems to be just quiet enough not to **** off my neighbors. I guess anytime you make the exhaust bigger and don't make more noise, its a win.
I do have some small pin hole leaks in some of the welds on the mid-pipe, but I think they are so small that they shouldn't be contributing to excess noise. I will pull it back off in the future and grind and re-weld some of the trouble spots.
I should be able to take the car out tonight and get some data. I'm thinking the best way to approach tuning is to simply multiply all VE table numbers in the positive pressure regions by 26.6%, which is simply the different in turbo flow characteristics (95 lb/min/75 lb/min). This should get me close assuming that I should be flowing about that much more air per unit of pressure??
I will set the duty cycle down to 0 on everything and run it on gate (12-14 psi) until I confirm my fueling strategy.
If I could break 400 rwhp on gate pressure that would be fantastic.
I did some rough discharge output temps calculations and my IATs should definitely come down in the higher horsepower levels.
You can see how difficult it becomes to push a S362SXE past 500rwhp and keep IATs in check....Assuming you could even push the 362 to 600 wheel without blowing the turbo or motor, the discharge temps would be over 200F (93C) higher in comparison to the 69. This also does show you how comparable the 62 to 69 are in the 400-500 level.
S369SXE
~400 rwhp - At 14 psi, 52 lb/min, 2.0 PR and 76 compressor efficiency, 100 degree inlet temps, discharge temps would be 255 F
~500 rwhp - At 18 psi,65 lb/min, 2.2 PR, and 74 compressor efficiency with 100 inlet temps, discharge temps would be 294 F
~600 rwhp - At 22 psi, 78 lb/min, 2.45 PR, and 71 compressor efficiency with 100 inlet temps, discharge temps would be 335 F
S362SXE
~400 rwhp - At 17 psi, 52 lb/min, 2.2 PR and 74 compressor efficiency, 100 degree inlet temps, discharge temps would be 286 F
~500 rwhp - At 22 psi,65 lb/min, 2.5 PR, and 72 compressor efficiency with 100 inlet temps, discharge temps would be 332 F
~600 rwhp - At 30+ psi, 78 lb/min, 3.0+PR, and ~50 compressor efficiency with 100 inlet temps, discharge temps would be 540 F (Chernobyl 2.0)
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 05-20-2020 at 01:52 PM.
Your 500hp at 18 psi is likely a good guess... I find mine at 550ish at 17lbs on E70... and about 500 on 93 pump
I don't think you will find the spool is too much slower. In some regards for track driving I don't mind the slower spool. If it hits too hard it gets hard to smoothly get on the power coming out of the turn
S362SXE
~400 rwhp - At 17 psi, 52 lb/min, 2.2 PR and 74 compressor efficiency, 100 degree inlet temps, discharge temps would be 286 F
If it took 17psi to make 400 .... it wasn't your turbo that was the problem . Even my Renesis makes 400 at 14 psi on a 62mm compressor ........ and that with a smaller turbine than yours had.
04-24-2020, 04:13 PM
