Warrior777 REW Swap
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RotaryMachineRx (05-09-2024)
#152
Also, I would like some opinions on what three gauges I should have in my tripple gauge pod in the car. I will have access to all the can data through a device call gaugeart plugged into my stereo head unit. So what I’m asking is what are the main three things I want to be able to have on a gauge in easy continuous view?
in the past I have oil pressure, oil temp and water temp.
in the past I have oil pressure, oil temp and water temp.
#153
SPOOLN8
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Also, I would like some opinions on what three gauges I should have in my tripple gauge pod in the car. I will have access to all the can data through a device call gaugeart plugged into my stereo head unit. So what I’m asking is what are the main three things I want to be able to have on a gauge in easy continuous view?
in the past I have oil pressure, oil temp and water temp.
in the past I have oil pressure, oil temp and water temp.
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Warrior777 (05-09-2024)
#154
I still have not decided on the 3 gauges I want to use. I'm thinking a combination of AFR, Boost, Oil pressure, Oil temperature. Thanks for your thoughts guys.
Here is a little update of sorts.
I have spent much of my time lately trying to get the turbo oil drain line correct. So I've learned you need at least a 5% decline in the line. Also, Last night I was reading borg warner suggestions for turbo installation and they recommend to not use a AN type adapter mounted directly to the oil drain port as it will cause a restriction, of course this is what I did. So I bought the flange and hopefully that will allow a 90 degree AN adapter which will keep my oil drain line at a decline. We shall see.
Also, I purchased some flexible mica sheet to incorporate into a 16 gauge steel heat shield for the lower intake manifold. I'm basically going to rivet the sheet onto the steel heat shield.
My plans for heat management will be this lower intake manifold heat shield. A Inconel heat shield for the turbine and down pipe. I'm also coating all the hot pieces as well as the compressor cover with Zycoat Zybar heat coating. I don't know if I can fit any shield or use wrap on my exhaust manifold. I'm also using some heat shielding tape to the underside of the air to water intercooler.
The other thing I have been thinking and planning for is directing cold air to the turbo intake. It seems I will not be able to pipe this out behind the bumper as I originally planned. So I'm looking at how I can duct air from the passenger side of the radiator to the turbo intake. It is basically a straight shot but the subframe and the sway bar are obstructing the path. I'm sure the up rights from the undertray will be an issue as well. Do any of you guys have experience with this ducting the air in this area. My other idea was to try to force air from the hood but I think my air to water intercooler will be in the way.
Here is a little update of sorts.
I have spent much of my time lately trying to get the turbo oil drain line correct. So I've learned you need at least a 5% decline in the line. Also, Last night I was reading borg warner suggestions for turbo installation and they recommend to not use a AN type adapter mounted directly to the oil drain port as it will cause a restriction, of course this is what I did. So I bought the flange and hopefully that will allow a 90 degree AN adapter which will keep my oil drain line at a decline. We shall see.
Also, I purchased some flexible mica sheet to incorporate into a 16 gauge steel heat shield for the lower intake manifold. I'm basically going to rivet the sheet onto the steel heat shield.
My plans for heat management will be this lower intake manifold heat shield. A Inconel heat shield for the turbine and down pipe. I'm also coating all the hot pieces as well as the compressor cover with Zycoat Zybar heat coating. I don't know if I can fit any shield or use wrap on my exhaust manifold. I'm also using some heat shielding tape to the underside of the air to water intercooler.
The other thing I have been thinking and planning for is directing cold air to the turbo intake. It seems I will not be able to pipe this out behind the bumper as I originally planned. So I'm looking at how I can duct air from the passenger side of the radiator to the turbo intake. It is basically a straight shot but the subframe and the sway bar are obstructing the path. I'm sure the up rights from the undertray will be an issue as well. Do any of you guys have experience with this ducting the air in this area. My other idea was to try to force air from the hood but I think my air to water intercooler will be in the way.
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RotaryMachineRx (05-30-2024)
#155
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
you can get the manifold and anything else wrapped in the inconel/ insulation
my understand is that this is the source supplier/installer to send the parts too
https://atpwrap.com/alloy-racing-covers/
.
my understand is that this is the source supplier/installer to send the parts too
https://atpwrap.com/alloy-racing-covers/
.
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Warrior777 (06-08-2024)
#156
So do you guys run oem engine to turbo manifold gaskets? Or are there others that are better? Also I’ve read that is proper to apply some sort of gasket maker to the gaskets as well? What is the stuff that is used for this and is it necessary?
Another question, how important is it to have the Wideband O2 sensor about 18 inches from the turbine discharge?
Last question. I’m fabricating my exhaust. I’m using 3.5inch 304 16g SS and vband clamps. I’ve included a flex pipe at the end of my down pipe. I’m keeping the stock connection points between pipes with vband clamps. Is some sort of flex spring needed like the oem flex connections?
Oh and should I include the brace from the transmission to the downpipe?
Another question, how important is it to have the Wideband O2 sensor about 18 inches from the turbine discharge?
Last question. I’m fabricating my exhaust. I’m using 3.5inch 304 16g SS and vband clamps. I’ve included a flex pipe at the end of my down pipe. I’m keeping the stock connection points between pipes with vband clamps. Is some sort of flex spring needed like the oem flex connections?
Oh and should I include the brace from the transmission to the downpipe?
#157
SPOOLN8
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Yes OEM gaskets are the best, but are surprisingly pricey; the benefit being that they seal perfectly and are easily reusable where some of the aftermarket 1 piece ones won't seal again after removal (I switched to factory gaskets for this exact reason). I use a Copper RTV (Permatex has a good copper RTV), and I coat both sides of the gasket in it.
Pic for reference:
I don't think proximity will affect O2 readings right off the bat but having it too close, especially in rotary exhaust will burn the sensor out due to heat, I'd do your best to stay 18" away. I have flex pipe in at the end of my downpipe as well, I don't have my downpipe braced to the transmission and it is perfectly fine. I don't have any springs in my hardware for bolting downpipe to midpipe; I do however want to replace this flange and all of the flanges with true 3" vbands, still on the to-do list.
Pic for reference:
I don't think proximity will affect O2 readings right off the bat but having it too close, especially in rotary exhaust will burn the sensor out due to heat, I'd do your best to stay 18" away. I have flex pipe in at the end of my downpipe as well, I don't have my downpipe braced to the transmission and it is perfectly fine. I don't have any springs in my hardware for bolting downpipe to midpipe; I do however want to replace this flange and all of the flanges with true 3" vbands, still on the to-do list.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 06-11-2024 at 04:34 PM.
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