$1800 clutch dilemma
#1
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I've been everywhere..man
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From: Chicago--River North
$1800 clutch dilemma
I have a 2005 RX-8 Shinka, and the clutch has always been a bit of a mystery to me. When I bought the car, I had not driven a manual trans for awhile, so my sense of what is "normal" was not too acute. But I did feel that there was something about the clutch that was strange. The most obvious thing was that it had such a high engagement point. After reading some reviews of that model year that criticized the "long-throw clutch", I just assumed that this charateristic was "by design", and not a major problem.
Then I took my car in yesterday for an oil change, and the service guy told me that the high engagement point he noticed was almost surely due to a worn clutch that would need to be replaced...for $1800!
I replied, "But...but...but...how can the high engagement point indicate clutch wear when it had a high engagement point when it was BRAND NEW??"
He says, "Let me let you try a new RX-8 from the lot." (a 2008, I think it was)
Sure enough, the new car had a clutch that felt the way I had always thought MINE should feel...low engagement point and all.
Was there a clutch redesign between 2005 and 2008 that could explain this?
Also, can any of you think of another problem that might have existed ever since I bought the car that would explain the high engagement point? Perhaps a problem that could be easily and inexpensively corrected?
Thanks,
saxon
Then I took my car in yesterday for an oil change, and the service guy told me that the high engagement point he noticed was almost surely due to a worn clutch that would need to be replaced...for $1800!
I replied, "But...but...but...how can the high engagement point indicate clutch wear when it had a high engagement point when it was BRAND NEW??"
He says, "Let me let you try a new RX-8 from the lot." (a 2008, I think it was)
Sure enough, the new car had a clutch that felt the way I had always thought MINE should feel...low engagement point and all.
Was there a clutch redesign between 2005 and 2008 that could explain this?
Also, can any of you think of another problem that might have existed ever since I bought the car that would explain the high engagement point? Perhaps a problem that could be easily and inexpensively corrected?
Thanks,
saxon
#2
I can't imagine they redesigned the clutch between those years as I have an '04 and the clutch engagement is fairly close to the floor.
High clutch engagement when the unit is not worn is a matter of adjustment, and if the dealer never noticed it in all the time you've taken it in for service, I'd be a bit worried about the technicians who shuttled your car into the work bay and never took note of it since new.
High clutch engagement when the unit is not worn is a matter of adjustment, and if the dealer never noticed it in all the time you've taken it in for service, I'd be a bit worried about the technicians who shuttled your car into the work bay and never took note of it since new.
#3
I have a 2005 RX-8 Shinka, and the clutch has always been a bit of a mystery to me. When I bought the car, I had not driven a manual trans for awhile, so my sense of what is "normal" was not too acute. But I did feel that there was something about the clutch that was strange. The most obvious thing was that it had such a high engagement point. After reading some reviews of that model year that criticized the "long-throw clutch", I just assumed that this charateristic was "by design", and not a major problem.
Then I took my car in yesterday for an oil change, and the service guy told me that the high engagement point he noticed was almost surely due to a worn clutch that would need to be replaced...for $1800!
I replied, "But...but...but...how can the high engagement point indicate clutch wear when it had a high engagement point when it was BRAND NEW??"
He says, "Let me let you try a new RX-8 from the lot." (a 2008, I think it was)
Sure enough, the new car had a clutch that felt the way I had always thought MINE should feel...low engagement point and all.
Was there a clutch redesign between 2005 and 2008 that could explain this?
Also, can any of you think of another problem that might have existed ever since I bought the car that would explain the high engagement point? Perhaps a problem that could be easily and inexpensively corrected?
Thanks,
saxon
Then I took my car in yesterday for an oil change, and the service guy told me that the high engagement point he noticed was almost surely due to a worn clutch that would need to be replaced...for $1800!
I replied, "But...but...but...how can the high engagement point indicate clutch wear when it had a high engagement point when it was BRAND NEW??"
He says, "Let me let you try a new RX-8 from the lot." (a 2008, I think it was)
Sure enough, the new car had a clutch that felt the way I had always thought MINE should feel...low engagement point and all.
Was there a clutch redesign between 2005 and 2008 that could explain this?
Also, can any of you think of another problem that might have existed ever since I bought the car that would explain the high engagement point? Perhaps a problem that could be easily and inexpensively corrected?
Thanks,
saxon
A clutch swap should run about $400-$600 for labor, it involves taking off a few things from under the car.
#4
you're being scammed and ripped off, and you should make sure to let that stupid tech know that YOU know that fact. I wouldn't go there again... even if you have a problem that price is insane
#6
I just had my clutch assembly replaced in Dec and price was about the same. originally quoted me 1700 for everything but gave me 15% off parts for being a club member. i thought the repair cost was kind of high but i paid it anyway because i wanted all the blame to fall on mazda if anything went wrong (since of course this was considered a wear and tear item and was no longer covered under my extended warranty)
Last edited by DaBatMan; 03-12-2008 at 10:54 AM.
#7
Thread Starter
I've been everywhere..man
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Chicago--River North
I mentioned that to the service guy and he said, "Well...you can adjust the pedal height, but not the engagement point." kinda makes sense, actually.
Could the high engagement point possibly be due to air in the hydraulic system...and be cured by bleeding it?
Could the high engagement point possibly be due to air in the hydraulic system...and be cured by bleeding it?
Last edited by saxon987; 03-12-2008 at 11:59 AM.
#10
Thread Starter
I've been everywhere..man
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 55
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From: Chicago--River North
He said that the engagement point height is a function of the hydraulics and the ?? (whatever the wear part in the clutch is called), and would not be changed by the adjustment screws on the pedal. If the clutch had a high engagement point and you adjusted the screws on the pedal to be closer to the floor than that engagement point...you just wouldn't be able to get it into gear.
I'm by no means an expert...but that's what he told me.
#12
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Not the same...if the service dude is right.
He said that the engagement point height is a function of the hydraulics and the ?? (whatever the wear part in the clutch is called), and would not be changed by the adjustment screws on the pedal. If the clutch had a high engagement point and you adjusted the screws on the pedal to be closer to the floor than that engagement point...you just wouldn't be able to get it into gear.
I'm by no means an expert...but that's what he told me.
He said that the engagement point height is a function of the hydraulics and the ?? (whatever the wear part in the clutch is called), and would not be changed by the adjustment screws on the pedal. If the clutch had a high engagement point and you adjusted the screws on the pedal to be closer to the floor than that engagement point...you just wouldn't be able to get it into gear.
I'm by no means an expert...but that's what he told me.
I does sound like the information he is giving you is correct.
Last edited by alnielsen; 03-12-2008 at 05:10 PM.
#13
I would shop around for clutch replacement prices on rx7store.net or some of the other vendors here. $1800 is very high and honestly any shop can do the clutch for you. It's not very different than any other car in that regard. I would get a second opinion on whether it can be adjusted or if you truly need a new clutch. Either way I wouldn't go to that guy for the price he's asking. Bring him your price quotes from some of the vendors here for parts and an outside shop for labor.
It's just too much.
RX7 store's replacement clutches: $350-$375 http://www.rx7store.net/category_s/283.htm
Rosenthal Mazda OEM clutch: $475 for parts http://www.finishlineperformance.com...me.php?cat=338
He's suggesting $1300-$1400 dollars in labor
An experienced tech should be able to swap your clutch in 4-5 hours. Hopefully they aren't charging $300/hour.
It's just too much.
RX7 store's replacement clutches: $350-$375 http://www.rx7store.net/category_s/283.htm
Rosenthal Mazda OEM clutch: $475 for parts http://www.finishlineperformance.com...me.php?cat=338
He's suggesting $1300-$1400 dollars in labor
An experienced tech should be able to swap your clutch in 4-5 hours. Hopefully they aren't charging $300/hour.
Last edited by shaunv74; 03-12-2008 at 05:22 PM.
#14
My clutch went out on my RX-7, and I went for a performance clutch, cost me $350. Took to a mechanic, and he put her on, $400. So, that's about $1,000 way too much. I'd normally say, "You get what you pay for." until it becomes highway robbery!
#17
#18
I agree with driveing it until it starts to slip, you will be able to drive it to a repair station with a small amount of slippage. the best thing is to change it your self.buy a service dvd, they are much cheaper then buying the paper manual. there is nothing complicated about changing a clutch.just removeing a lot of bolts and the trans,important to line up the clutch assmb so trans will slip back in.also if you see any seals that can be changed, change them.good luck
#19
I'd get it checked out by a 3rd party mechanic. Tough to trust a stealership.
I don't think the design changed as others have said. I have an '04 as well and I have to push it all the way to the floor before I can shift.
I don't think the design changed as others have said. I have an '04 as well and I have to push it all the way to the floor before I can shift.
#20
Had my clutch and flywheel replaced last month. new act hd clutch 360, act prolite flywheel 260, counter wieght 100, labor 350. total $1070.00 for heavier clutch, lighter flywheel..... AND my local mazda dealer did the work also...your getting ripped. next time ask your tech for some lube first!