$800USD: what kinda mods?
#1
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$800USD: what kinda mods?
What would you get for your 8 if you had that money?
Let's say installation extra, I'm trying to pick between a Greddy exhaust (or suggestions for exhaust around that price?), a set of underbracing or should stop dreaming and save more for a set of light weight SSR wheels or save a little less and get a set of adjustable tein coilovers?
Would underbracing do anything if you haven't modified any other suspension parts?
Thanks
Let's say installation extra, I'm trying to pick between a Greddy exhaust (or suggestions for exhaust around that price?), a set of underbracing or should stop dreaming and save more for a set of light weight SSR wheels or save a little less and get a set of adjustable tein coilovers?
Would underbracing do anything if you haven't modified any other suspension parts?
Thanks
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If you want a great sound (and the pipes are bigger and look better than the stock exhaust too) and better handling I would agree with Spazm. For better handling the sway bars are the best modification you can make. I would place the underbody brace about 4th behind sway bars, springs/shocks, front/rear strut bars. Racing Beat has a discount on their sway bar (F/R) & springs set on their website (www.racingbeat.com) and I just put it on (along with a Mazda Speed Front Tower Bar) and all I can say is that they make a big difference in the handling of the car. This package with the front sway bar endlinks will probably run you around $600. Save up for the cat back and you won't be dissapointed.
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I want to keep my ride height stock.... have this phobia of scraping or going too fast over a hill... =P
anyone know if there's spring/shocks out there that doesn't lower the car but still has better performance than stock? can you set adjustable ones to a normal ride height?
anyone know if there's spring/shocks out there that doesn't lower the car but still has better performance than stock? can you set adjustable ones to a normal ride height?
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Originally Posted by Rotary Titus
I want to keep my ride height stock.... have this phobia of scraping or going too fast over a hill... =P
anyone know if there's spring/shocks out there that doesn't lower the car but still has better performance than stock? can you set adjustable ones to a normal ride height?
anyone know if there's spring/shocks out there that doesn't lower the car but still has better performance than stock? can you set adjustable ones to a normal ride height?
Overall I would get upgrade swaybars before swapping out the springs/shocks. I still have my stock swaybars and the difference between the RB units is massive. The rear RB sway bar is literally 3X bigger than the stock unit. Same with the MS front tower brace.
#12
Yes Go with the EB springs and exhaust.
In fact if you want performance go with RB exhaust and a mid pipe.
You don't need suspension mods. The car will out drive you as stock.
If you must go suspension go RB springs as the 1/2" reduction in height is better than the 1 to 2 " you get over other systems.
In fact if you want performance go with RB exhaust and a mid pipe.
You don't need suspension mods. The car will out drive you as stock.
If you must go suspension go RB springs as the 1/2" reduction in height is better than the 1 to 2 " you get over other systems.
#13
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Answer for $800 USD Modification:
I would do anything that takes weight directly off the crank. This will improve low end response also. Thus I would do an aluminum flywheel 1st, or a light weight aluminum underdrive pulley. I have a 1992 300ZX and did both of the mods. I noticed a large difference with the light weight crank pulley and the low end launch....I think that took ~ 16 lbs of weight off the crank. I have not had any issues with cooling or charging...and I am running with an after market electric fan also (Stock is clutch) I think doing the aluminum flywheel would be great also...I think that this mod would take ~18 lbs of weight off the crank. These are mods with results that you can feel and bank on.
I am always leary of exhaust mods, especially headers, because I read that different people get different results...ie no change or drop in HP (unless you have forced induction)...removing weight off the crank avoids this whole question and gives you a real result that you can bank on.
Also CPU upgrades are good, but once again some people are not getting the results that they expect, can't bank on that buck just yet.
My two cents......
I am always leary of exhaust mods, especially headers, because I read that different people get different results...ie no change or drop in HP (unless you have forced induction)...removing weight off the crank avoids this whole question and gives you a real result that you can bank on.
Also CPU upgrades are good, but once again some people are not getting the results that they expect, can't bank on that buck just yet.
My two cents......
#16
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Even if you do pure drag you need a strong body - so sway and struts for me first then brake pads and coilover. You can jump on the exhaust first but I WILL put a sport oil cooler and radiator before (perheps the gauges) EVEN thinking of turbo or S/C it. CLEAR? Not to mention the intake and ECU need to be retuned for the car.
#21
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Originally Posted by shelleys_man_06
I'd get suspension stuff; hold off on getting power.
#22
Insanely Yellow
A one-day driving school at a quality driving school, if the money is burning a hole in your pocket. Forget the flash modifications (like "COOL WHEELS") or even performance mods (the gains are incremental at best at that price tag, and you'll be disappointed in the results). Learning how to be a better performance driver will deliver infinitely more fun. It may not impress the rice boys down the street, but you'll enjoy the difference.
#23
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Originally Posted by StewC625
A one-day driving school at a quality driving school. Learning how to be a better performance driver will deliver infinitely more fun. It may not impress the rice boys down the street, but you'll enjoy the difference.
#24
Insanely Yellow
Well, depending on where you are, there's likely a number of choices. I highly recommend both Bob Bondurant and Skip Barber. I've done both the Bob Bondurant high performance driving course and the Skip Barber introduction to racing course. Either are teriffic, although you learn more for everyday driving at the Bondurant course.
I'd also check with your local SCCA chapter - they frequently have one-day course. For example, the Chicago and Milwaukee region chapters are hosting a track day at Blackhawk Farms road course outside of Beloit, WI in a few weeks, and that starts with "have you ever driven on a race track" and goes from there. And you drive your own car!
I'd also check with your local SCCA chapter - they frequently have one-day course. For example, the Chicago and Milwaukee region chapters are hosting a track day at Blackhawk Farms road course outside of Beloit, WI in a few weeks, and that starts with "have you ever driven on a race track" and goes from there. And you drive your own car!
#25
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Originally Posted by StewC625
A one-day driving school at a quality driving school, if the money is burning a hole in your pocket. Forget the flash modifications (like "COOL WHEELS") or even performance mods (the gains are incremental at best at that price tag, and you'll be disappointed in the results). Learning how to be a better performance driver will deliver infinitely more fun. It may not impress the rice boys down the street, but you'll enjoy the difference.