Hey guys i was wondering if you could help me out a bit here new to the whole rotary engine thing couple of days ago car would start fine but driving wise it would take along time to get up to speed and shifting wise itll get to a sertain rpms then stop rising and start to jerk and today went to sart the car after i put it in a heated garage over night and have to keep feathering the pedal to start and have to continue to feather it to keep it running if i let off it dies and if i hold my foot on the pedal it dies any ideas??? Was thinking pump or filter but i took of my gas line and gas is making it threw but could be failing i guess?? Thank you

 

Let's start with when is the last time you change the coils, plugs, and wires (tune-up)? We need more info about your car like mileage and stuffs...

 

Coils was the first thing i checked they where good cleaned the plate up a bit amd the car has 65,000km

 

+1 on what Monchie said.

How did you check them?

You need to use a HEI Coil Ignition tester

The fuel pump should operate around 60psi
I strongly suggest you re-frame from removing the fuel line and testing if the fuel pump is working this way, unless you absolutely know what you are doing.

edit -- any check engine light activity?

 

Yes, please explain how you inspected the ignition coils.
If you removed them, and looked for white spots, that is not correct.
You need to hook a timing light up to the spark plug wires, and see if the coils are actually firing the spark plugs. Once you determine the coils are actually firing the plugs, then you need to hook a spark plug ignition tester to the spark plug wire (in place of the spark plug), ground it, and watch to see how strong the spark actually is that is coming from each coil.

Somehow, I doubt this has been done on your car.

When was the last time your car had new spark plugs, ignition wires, and ignition coils installed on it? Your car is now 5 to 6 years old, with over 40k miles on it. Your spark plugs and wires should have been replaced at least once, if not twice by now. And 40k miles is when most RX-8's start experiencing failing ignition coils.

So, chances are you are due for an ignition system replacement.

But its your choice.
You can save $200, and have the engine lose compression, and destroy the catalyst inside the catalytic convertor, and then have to pay well over $5k for all of their replacement, or you can simply pay the $200, and prevent that damage from occurring.

BC.

 

LOL
Wow you not get laid last night? Mr. Angry pants lol

edit ... hahaha the way that is written I can just see you waggle'n your finger at the OP ... and another thing blah blah and this blah blah

You made me LOL

 

All i did was check for white spots but i also right now have new ignition coils in that i installed yesterday just checked the plugs they need to be changed alot of carbon build up and burning but wouldnt the be stuttering or back firing of some sort if it was spark plugs just going off other cars ive owned but just thought id put that out there and there not cheap coils got from mazda for $400 new from the package

 

And the check engine light was on for the after market exhaust

 

WCS:



Flundy:

How did you determine your CEL was due to your aftermarket exhaust? Did you read the code using an OBD2 reader?

 

Car already had exhaust on prior to buying from dealership and i hooked up a code reader after bought the car to double check but dont have a code reader avalible now so cant check if new codes popped up ordered new spark plugs and wires just wont find out if their the problem for a couple days till they get in

 

Wait, what was the code originally? The only exhaust code is the catalytic converter, please tell me you've had it inspected?

 

Loloolololololl

 

OMG aftermarket exhaust might have been an important point in your first post

 

Lol an yes it was from the cats dont have dumby cats in so it could be cause by the exhaust

 

The exhaust has been on for a while now ive had the car for a 5 months now who knows how long it was on before havent had any problem with it and i can see the exhaust making it not run

 

Here...
. . , . , , ; ,
Feel free to use 'em. Please.

 

Haha to lazy on iphone ive called about 15 mazda dealerships ive had one guy that said it could be the after market exhaust cause of a vacuum problem but everyone else says that if theres a exhaust leak it wouldn't cause it not to run

 

Either buy a cheap OBD2 reader or go to Autozone / Pepboys / etc and have them read the code(s) for you.

If you've got anything other than cat efficiency below threshold then start there.

Also, I just re-read your first post and previously missed your last, what looks like an, attempt of a complete sentence.

The quick connect / disconnect fuel line is prone to leaking / breaking free if not removed and reconnected properly. It has been the cause of a number of car fires after dealership work. If you don't have forethought to check CELs, etc you have no business ******* with your fuel line.

Great, now I'm the chirping bird.