Engine flooded.

Got up early yesterday to move my car so my roomate could go to work and I just moved it 3 feet and did the Rev to 3k then turn the car off trick. Didn't have to use the car the rest of the day now here I am ready to go to work and its flooded.

Tried the deflooding procedure a good 3 times or so but now my battery is damn near dead so I'm stuck!

If I have someone jump me and I keep doing the deflood procedure will it eventually work, or do I HAVE to get my car towed to the dealer? AND is this going to be covered?

 

what year is your 8

 

2004 with 32k miles

 

Have you tried the method below?

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=89

 

No I have not, I don't feel enough like a master of the wrench to try it either but I guess its worth a shot?

 

Good luck. Do you have the upgraded starter and battery? Newer spark plugs and coils?

 

I answerd ur question in the other flooding thread...

 

There isn't a "rev to 3k" trick.

It's the "let it warm up by idling, then rev it to 3k" trick.

Ken

 

Yeah the rev to 3K is after its warmed up. I think I read that if you do shut it down cold (stupid IMHO), Mazda recommends revving it to 3-4K and holding it there for like 15 seconds or something.

 

The only pronouncement I've seen from Mazda is warm by idle, then rev to 3k for 10 seconds. It's in the Quick Tips booklet, and I think on the DVD.

The engine has to be warm to avoid flooding. If it's cold, it's getting a rich mixture and the block is cold enough for the excess fuel to condense. The rev would be to blow off the modest fouling that comes from warming by idle instead of by driving.

Ken

 

curious... if you popped the hood and turned the motor by hand, whether by tugging on the belts or turning the pulley... wouldn't the excess fuel flow out of the exhaust ports?

or is that way too simple to work?

 

The method that will always work is getting it moving and popping the clutch.

 

i dont see the engine turning over by hand very easy....at least with the plugs still in

 

FWIW- all three times I flooded mine I had to take the battery to autozone and get them to (freely) recharge it so I could get the unflooded.

And you are supposed to rev up the engine for like ten seconds before cutting it off.

 

I had it happen to me moving it to wash it in my yard and my kid turned the key off, so I got the wife's car and hook jumper cables since I didn't want to drain the battery and doing the deflooding procedure for a little it started, so it might work as long as you keep power to the battery long enough.

 

Hmm read that wrong. I was told by my dealership that if I turn it off cold then I'd need to rev to 3k and while its falling turn it off.

Edit: I finally got it unflooded a few hours later. I kept trying the unflood procedure listed in that thread at it wasn't really working, finally I held it down longer than the 8 seconds or so I read you're suppose to it and the longer one showed better results but wasn't just enough, then I did it again but longer that next time and it got her up and running again.

Had to have my roomates truck attached with jumper cables for the whole thing since the 3 or 4 times earlier that morning didn't yield any results and drained my battery.

 

Ok revving to 3k for 10 seconds is a way to possibly keep it from flooding if the car is COLD...IE moving it out of the garage to wash it....rev to 3k for about 10 sec and cut it off and let the rpm's drop so it pushes out the excess fuel out of the exhaust ports...if the car is already warm then just cut it off normal....basically if the temp needle has moved then cut it off normally...if it hasn't moved then try the 3k rev...

 

That's not what Mazda says. Quoting from the Mazda Quick Tips guide:

For any trip that is too short for the
engine to reach normal operating
temperature, (needle in middle of
temperature gauge indicates normal
temperature), the following
procedure should be followed**:
1. Start engine
2. Move vehicle
3. Warm engine for 5-minutes at idle
4. Raise engine speed to 3000
RPM for 10-seconds
5. Return to idle
6. Turn off engine

Ken

 

^5 minutes at idle should warm it up damn near operating temp anyway....(unless it's like 0 degrees outside).....well that may be what mazda says....either way I dont rev to 3k it just make sure that theneedle is moved up at least to the second "longer line" on the gauge and just shut it off normally....and i've never had any problems.....

 

Oh, I understand what revving it then shutting it off is supposed to do. On a lot of newer engines, when torque demand drops to zero suddenly, the fuel injectors will shut completely off and let the flywheel keep the engine spinning until it slows down to idle speed. Revving it high and then shutting it off while it's spinning down is supposed to keep the fuel injectors from spraying fuel into the combustion chambers just before the engine is shut off.

The problem with doing that within a few seconds of starting the car, though, is that the ECU will still be choking the engine, and it won't shut off the fuel injectors no matter what you do. If you don't at least run it long enough for the choke to shut off (that would be when the RPMs drop to ~1000rpm), all you'll do by revving the engine high is make the flooding worse, because the ECU will inject tons of gas into the combustion chambers no matter what the torque demand is.

 

this is my issue, if I start the car and drive for about 15 min and shut it off, it will not restart right away, whats the mean? Plugs?

 

Tried the deflooding procedures with no luck. Had someone tow me, dropped the clutch in 1st (not 2nd as recommended somewhere in this site) and it started right up.

 

I used to do it all the time on my FC... just get a wrench on the main pulley bolt and turn it. I'm not saying turn it FAST, just turn it and push the gas out the exhaust port maybe? I used to be able to turn it just by pulling on the belts...

 

^oh yeah with a wrench yeah easily you could but by hand someone said by "tugging" on the belts which wouldn't be too easy....

Viking....It could be low compression if it's a hard start when HOT issue...but if it's been awhile since coils/plugs have been there I would start there...even if you do need a new engine you will have to change coils/plugs anyway so you won't be "wasting" the money...

 

Did you do that to deflood it? I'd expect that using the starter (with fuel off) would be better, since you'd have momentum working for you. Much the way that folks report push or pull starting to work much better than cranking the starter.

I'm not sure if I ever turned an engine by tugging on the belts, but I've certainly done it enough times with a wrench on the crank bolt when setting timing or adjusting valves.*

Ken

* Valves: strange mushroom-like devices on pogo-stick cycle engines.