I'm not sure that this one's as easy as adding insulation. I have this going on when outside temps are around 70, when I'm going 70, so the condenser should be working just fine. Even in traffic, the fan should be on and pulling plenty of air across it, especially for a car with a factory system that's bound to have undergone hot-weather testing at some point during development.

But I do look forward to hearing if insulating it helps... good luck!


GeorgeH - No-one in the US has climate control. Start writing your nasty letter to MNAO; we got screwed. I dont know if any Canadians with CC have the same issues, but that's an interesting question.

 

Boozehound,
I agree with you regarding the cycling of the compressor, sometimes it gets annoying but I learned to live with it. As far as the insulating the “low side” of the A/C line, I just did it during lunch time since I was able to get the material last night while getting other stuffs for my house at Home Depot. I spent $3.50 for a tube of 6 feet (1/2” ID, 3/8” wall tick).
Anyway, it took me just under 1 hour to do it. I tried to take some pictures but the camera crap out. So I took this picture in the forum and highlighted the Low side A/c line. By the way be careful with the heater line near by, its really Hot!!!
After I was done I started my car and the turn A/C on at coldest mode and fan at 3. Ambient temperature was 84 F. Temperature at the vent: 57 F. According to my tech, it is pretty good. After for about 10 minutes the A/C compressor started to cycle every other 15 seconds or so. Just remember that my car was just idling. I will keep you informed with my findings if this mod made any difference. I am sure that the heat from the engine will not heat my “cold” line as much thus making it more efficient.

 

Here is the list of material I used.
6’ 1 /2 “ ID insulating foam/neoprene tube (you only need about 3’
3/4 “ ID insulating foam (for the flex hose section of the line, need about 12”)
Zip ties (don’t trust the adhesive if it comes)

Here are the steps I took.

1. I took the 3/4 “ ID foam and cut it about 12” I wrapped around the flex hose section starting as close to the compressor and working my way out up to the supporting bracket. I actually have to trim lengthwise the foam since I had 1” ID and I wanted to make it tighter. Then I attached the zip ties. One at each end and at each bends. Be careful not to disrupt the natural bend of the flex line.

2. Take the 1/2 “ ID foam tube and try to slip in between the firewall and the metal tube section. CAUTION! You car may have the tube too close to the firewall. What I did was I gave a little pull. From the passenger side I used my left hand to hold the line between the vertical bend and the fill cap “L”. While keeping it steady, my right hand pulled the line about 3/16”. After this “chiropractor” move, I was able to slip in the foam tube.

3. Zip tied the foam tube starting form the bracket (driver side) and work you way. I zip tied for every 10” is enough. Make sure not to cover the “low side fill valve” you need that for servicing the A/C. Be careful with the heater line near the firewall, it get really hot in a warm engine. The few inches that is left before the firewall, is not necessary to insulate it because you pretty much have a well insulated A/C line. I tried to do it all the way but because there are so many close bends it was a bit of pain to do it. So I stopped at the end of the vertical section. Then I use a small section 3” and insulated the horizontal section before going into the firewall. I only have a small section of about 1 “ that is exposed. After that you are done….

 

Here is what I found on my way home.
Ambient temp: 78 F. Driving at 70-75 mph with light traffic 30 miles
I set the A/C to cold, fan speed to 2, recycle mode. I forgot to bring with me my digital thermometer to see the temperature, so I set the left vent to blow to my hand while holding the steering to feel what is doing.
At the begining for about 10 minutes of driving I felt the A/C really strong. Most likely the temperature was around 60 F. After a while I felt that the air became just a thad cool but after 5 minutes it became colder as before to the point that my hand started to feel numb. It was like that for the rest of the trip home with 15 minutes really cold then about 5 minutes of cool air then back to full cold. The air never became warm or close to the ambient temp since I was sticking my hand out in the window once in awhile to check the ambient temp. Even when I pulled in to my driveway I did not noticed any water condensation dripping out (it was always the case when I use the A/C)
Anyway, so far it seems to work. But I will see when the weather warms up further. I will keep you informed

 

I have the L reflash and it still cycles like mad. Time to try the dealer.

 

Below is a post I did in December 2003. Nothing has changed. Does anyone have temperature readings or know what "spec" at the vent is? AC is so subjective it is hard to judge what individuals think is "too cold" or "too hot".

"I had my Rx8 delivered two weeks ago and have issues with the air conditioner. I have reviewed the other postings on this subject and wonder if any new information has been found.

Outside temperature was 52 F this morning and the system blows air at 130 F with the air off, vents open and the temperature dial centered. At full "heat" it was blowing 160 F. At the other end it was blowing 75 F.

With the air on and centered it is still blowing air at above outside temperature . . . close to 100F. It is only when the temperature dial is at maximum cold with air on that it appears to cool the outside air.

I intend to take it to the dealer but would be interested in any information or comments anyone might have before I do so. The postings have not been encourageing regarding the response I am likely to get. It did blow at close to the 47 F "standard" with a 50 degree outside tempurature and the air on, vents closed and the tempurature dial at maximum."

Last edited by RAM on 12-04-2003 at 08:04 AM

 

Dear Jay,

Thank you for contacting Mazda North American Operations. I appreciate the opportunity to respond to you.

In regard to your inquiry, we are planning on a production change, but it hasn't been hot enough to fully test it. The 2005 RX-8 will definitely have the production change. Basically, there will be a change to the evaporator and the computer logic system that controls the cooling unit.

I hope this information is helpful for you.

Regards,

Lisa Lasky
Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business

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Original Message Follows:
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Message Body: We are looking to purchase an RX-8, and I have been reading forums on the car. A reoccuring complaint is the air conditioner -- specifically that it does not cool fresh air at all, the the recirculated air cycles between hot and cold ... with no overall cooling effect on the car. Another complaint I see often is that the a/c automatically turns on when defrost is selected. I am writing therefore,to see if there is a fix for these issues, or if they will be addressed in the 2005 model.

 

Smells like a problem to me... Maybe they'll TSB it for the rest of us, once they develop their "change." But great news if you're going to buy an 05!

 

Ok... I found the spec for how to judge whether your AC is performing correctly. I laid out the proceedure in another thread, so maybe we can get some people to go get some data!

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...threadid=24416