Auto trans intake manifold on manual?
03-17-2009 | 02:03 AM
#1
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From: Bergen, Norway
Auto trans intake manifold on manual?
I need to replace my entire intake manifold (because my dealer said so), and the prices here are _madness_. They want something like 2850usd for just the part. I've got the 192 HP 5-speed manual trans. I checked at onlinemazdaparts and found this one:
intake manifold, rx-8, auto trans 04-07 $1,230.58 $1,015.23
Will this be a perfect fit to my car or will I have any issues? Any idea where I can get the part number for that intake manifold so I can get the local Mazda here check whether it'll fit or not?
intake manifold, rx-8, auto trans 04-07 $1,230.58 $1,015.23
Will this be a perfect fit to my car or will I have any issues? Any idea where I can get the part number for that intake manifold so I can get the local Mazda here check whether it'll fit or not?
03-17-2009 | 02:22 AM
#3
Yours is a four port. It should be the same manifold.
I wish I had one for you but alas I do not.
Only thing is you do not want anything newer than a 2005 manifold. 2004/2005 are 4 ports.
Anything newer will be a 6 port in the US.
I wish I had one for you but alas I do not.
Only thing is you do not want anything newer than a 2005 manifold. 2004/2005 are 4 ports.
Anything newer will be a 6 port in the US.
03-17-2009 | 03:10 AM
#7
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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From: east of Knoxville, TN
On a 4 port engine, the 2 outer/secondary intake ports are larger than the same 2 on a 6 port engine. On a 6 port engine, the 2 outer secondary lower ports are medium sized, and the 2 upper auxiliary sleeve ports are very large.
Since the 4 port did not have the auxiliary ports at all, mazda enlarged the lower secondary ports somewhat.
So yes, a 6 port manifold will bolt up to your engine although the port runners may not be 100% the same size, it should work without major issues. You'd have to remove the 6 port sleeves/actuation system and block off those intake port holes via welding (or whatever other method you feel confident in).
You could also just take your existing manifold off, and either lubricate/free up the existing (presumably stuck) rotating port sleeves inside, OR if you cannot, remove them entirely and leave the chamber open...worst case scenario you'd have a mild loss of low end torque and a bit more engine intake noise at lower rpm. This may trigger a CEL as the PCM keeps up with the position of these valves as it tries to open and close them, but the running of the engine should not be affected.
It should not be terribly hard to find a set of intake manifolds from a 4 port here in the US...there are plenty of 04's being parted out now as they get wrecked.
Since the 4 port did not have the auxiliary ports at all, mazda enlarged the lower secondary ports somewhat.
So yes, a 6 port manifold will bolt up to your engine although the port runners may not be 100% the same size, it should work without major issues. You'd have to remove the 6 port sleeves/actuation system and block off those intake port holes via welding (or whatever other method you feel confident in).
You could also just take your existing manifold off, and either lubricate/free up the existing (presumably stuck) rotating port sleeves inside, OR if you cannot, remove them entirely and leave the chamber open...worst case scenario you'd have a mild loss of low end torque and a bit more engine intake noise at lower rpm. This may trigger a CEL as the PCM keeps up with the position of these valves as it tries to open and close them, but the running of the engine should not be affected.
It should not be terribly hard to find a set of intake manifolds from a 4 port here in the US...there are plenty of 04's being parted out now as they get wrecked.
03-17-2009 | 03:39 AM
#8
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From: Bergen, Norway
On a 4 port engine, the 2 outer/secondary intake ports are larger than the same 2 on a 6 port engine. On a 6 port engine, the 2 outer secondary lower ports are medium sized, and the 2 upper auxiliary sleeve ports are very large.
Since the 4 port did not have the auxiliary ports at all, mazda enlarged the lower secondary ports somewhat.
So yes, a 6 port manifold will bolt up to your engine although the port runners may not be 100% the same size, it should work without major issues. You'd have to remove the 6 port sleeves/actuation system and block off those intake port holes via welding (or whatever other method you feel confident in).
You could also just take your existing manifold off, and either lubricate/free up the existing (presumably stuck) rotating port sleeves inside, OR if you cannot, remove them entirely and leave the chamber open...worst case scenario you'd have a mild loss of low end torque and a bit more engine intake noise at lower rpm. This may trigger a CEL as the PCM keeps up with the position of these valves as it tries to open and close them, but the running of the engine should not be affected.
It should not be terribly hard to find a set of intake manifolds from a 4 port here in the US...there are plenty of 04's being parted out now as they get wrecked.
Since the 4 port did not have the auxiliary ports at all, mazda enlarged the lower secondary ports somewhat.
So yes, a 6 port manifold will bolt up to your engine although the port runners may not be 100% the same size, it should work without major issues. You'd have to remove the 6 port sleeves/actuation system and block off those intake port holes via welding (or whatever other method you feel confident in).
You could also just take your existing manifold off, and either lubricate/free up the existing (presumably stuck) rotating port sleeves inside, OR if you cannot, remove them entirely and leave the chamber open...worst case scenario you'd have a mild loss of low end torque and a bit more engine intake noise at lower rpm. This may trigger a CEL as the PCM keeps up with the position of these valves as it tries to open and close them, but the running of the engine should not be affected.
It should not be terribly hard to find a set of intake manifolds from a 4 port here in the US...there are plenty of 04's being parted out now as they get wrecked.
Since I'm located in Europe I don't really know where to look for a used 4-port manifold so any help would be appreciated and I could also pay someone a small amount of cash if they would help me get a manifold shipped over here.
03-17-2009 | 11:54 AM
#9
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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From: east of Knoxville, TN
I don't really wanna bother trying to make a 6-port manifold work and I'm not really interested in having loss of low-end torque either (the torque already sucks ^^), so my only option is getting an entire manifold or getting a seperate valve somehow.
I think I would gladly take a few ft-lb loss of low end torque to save that kind of money. And I also think I would gladly take the time to modify a 6 port manifold to work on your engine, again to save that kind of money. But that is just me.
03-17-2009 | 02:57 PM
#10
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From: Bergen, Norway
Firstly, I drive my car very hard, I rarely drive without redlining atleast every 10 minute or so. Secondly, I'm experiencing no loss of power whatsoever as far as I know, it's only making a 'clicking sound' during idle when engine is hot. This should mean that it's not one of the higher valves that's stuck right? As far as I understood from the dealer, the valve can't be fixed even if cleaned, only replaced.
Furthermore, I'm pretty much mechanically challenged and I don't have any idea how to strip down the manifold, even less how to modify a 6-port to work for my car.
Furthermore, I'm pretty much mechanically challenged and I don't have any idea how to strip down the manifold, even less how to modify a 6-port to work for my car.
03-17-2009 | 03:23 PM
#12
Read the threads on freeing the SSV......If you have a 4 port that is the only valve that would stick that would matter
It's an easy fix...hell I'm sure someone could help you..if you can change plugs you can do this
It's an easy fix...hell I'm sure someone could help you..if you can change plugs you can do this
03-17-2009 | 04:38 PM
#17
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From: Bergen, Norway
If I only knew that... I don't know how to translate my Dealer's explanation into English. But something like it's working like crazy opening and closing during idle or something 
If I posted a soundclip, would it help?
If I posted a soundclip, would it help?
03-17-2009 | 04:41 PM
#18
Does it go click click click?
It is likely the actuator that needs replacing.....if the diaphragm isn't holding a vac the solenoid will cycle on/off/on/off trying to get it to stay open
It is likely the actuator that needs replacing.....if the diaphragm isn't holding a vac the solenoid will cycle on/off/on/off trying to get it to stay open
03-17-2009 | 04:48 PM
#21
Do you know where the actuator is?
Look for the noise
if you don't.....you can see if the valve is moving by turning the shaft the actuator is hooked to
Actuator looks like a gold mushroom with a lever coming out of it
Get them to check if the actuator holds a Vac.....
Look for the noise
if you don't.....you can see if the valve is moving by turning the shaft the actuator is hooked toActuator looks like a gold mushroom with a lever coming out of it
Get them to check if the actuator holds a Vac.....
03-17-2009 | 04:52 PM
#23
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From: Bergen, Norway
Thread is bugging -,- Oh well, vac as in vacuum? Checking that by rotating the valve manually? Yes I somewhat know where the actuator is located but not sure how to rotate and check the valves.
03-17-2009 | 04:54 PM
#25